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my a/c suck and almost never blows hard

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mike86ttype

LOW ALKY!!! AGAIN?
Joined
Feb 7, 2005
Messages
288
What are some ways to make my a/c blow harder :D. my friend has a gn and he say his ac is blows as hard as a new car. :eek: Is there anything i need to clean out. Do i need to get a new car so it can blow as hard as a new car :biggrin: . i have already switched it over to r134 and got dual fans on the front what is next. Please help me its hot in texas and i need some nice cold a/c to blow me :biggrin: or blow on me.
 
If you are talking about lack of air flow first make sure its all coming out the vents when vent is selected. If it is and you compared the air flow amount to another car and yours is less then I would recommend removing the evaporator and checking it for restrictions across the cooling fins. I have seen this sometimes but only on cars or trucks that carry animals or through a lot of trash in the floor boards.
 
mike86ttype said:
What are some ways to make my a/c blow harder :D. my friend has a gn and he say his ac is blows as hard as a new car. :eek: Is there anything i need to clean out. ..............
Could be plugged as described earlier.
Is the air intake screen on the PS clean?
Can you acually hear the fan speed increase as you switch it to the higher settings?
Did you try (I am sure) all the settings, i.e. defrost, max, vent, etc?
 
mike86ttype said:
What are some ways to make my a/c blow harder :D. my friend has a gn and he say his ac is blows as hard as a new car. :eek: Is there anything i need to clean out. Do i need to get a new car so it can blow as hard as a new car :biggrin: . i have already switched it over to r134 and got dual fans on the front what is next. Please help me its hot in texas and i need some nice cold a/c to blow me :biggrin: or blow on me.
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Switching over to R134 might be more of a hinderance than a help, imho, but shouldn't make a major difference though.
Dual fans in the front have very little effect on the air conditioning unit or it's effectiveness. Should keep the car motor running cooler though.
1. Do you hear the fan running when you kick it up a level?
2. Do you hear the vents opening when you turn on the heat or the airconditioning?
3. If you can hear the blower motor fan running, but do not feel any air pressure coming out of the vents, then 1 or all or the vents might be plugged, which is doubtful, or the door(s) to the vents may not be opening/operating, which I would guess at. I'm not sure, but I believe that the vents are controlled by vacuum, which is controlled by switch and then by the hard vacuum lines in the motor compartment.
And yes, buying a newer car will probably solve the issue, but may not be the best or cheapest solution.
 
I washed my coil with a garden hose and got rid of 20 years worth of bugs outta the damn thing. It was nasty!!!! You might not want to use high pressure from the powerwasher, it will bend the fins if you get too close.

Go to autozone or napa, buy a needle temp gauge so you can tell us what temperature its blowing., stick the needle gauge in the vent next to your drivers door.
My car, with the stock radiator, stock R12 and the ramchargers dual fan kit will blow 60° air idling in 105° outside temperature, people getting in and out to fetch movies, go to the bank ect.

If i put the sunshade in my front windshield, park in the shade, 105° outside, the car will blow 45°-49° air going down the highway.
If its 95° out, ive seen 39°-40° temp at the needle on the drivers side vent.

I too wish it "blew harder" maybe a better upgraded blower motor, Think someone like Tim Allen (tim the tool man) could modify one for us??

BW
 
We need a fan motor that has more rpm. Got mine working pretty good. I did on of those do it yourself 134a conversions. Everything works fine but I would like it to blow harder too. That old school technoledgy just doesnt kick like the newer vehicles.
 
well it blowing but sometimes when i sit at a light its like the heaters on. Could there also be comething wrong with the compressor not puting out enough freon
 
mike86ttype said:
well it blowing but sometimes when i sit at a light its like the heaters on. Could there also be comething wrong with the compressor not puting out enough freon

May be the heater's on. If you have a vacum leak or something else funny you may be opening the Heater Control valve sitting at a light. Wire it shut and try it again.
 
Check that heater hose shutoff valve with the vacuum hose by the fire wall, sometimes a vacuum leak will cause it not to work...

ALSO, if you visually see the valve shut, but sometimes the valve internally will fail.... Start the car, put the AC on, with that valve shut, the hose should be cold on one side of the valve and hot on the other...If the valve is working correctly no hot coolant from the motor should go thru the heater core..
That would cause higher interior temps.

BW
 
AC in these black colored cars is challenging. The black really does make it absorb sunlight more. Thats why my fbi Caprice was not shipped to Saudi Arabia, because the towel heads know it would be a hotter car in the desert areas.
You need to verify air movement as covered by earlier posts and ac (refrigerant) function. AC function could be from too much oil in system, gas too hi/low, orifice tube clogged, receiver dryer spent. Our compressors usually work until they lock up. In other words, they work or die.
 
yeah it could be that valve. it looks pretty old. i don't think i have any vacumn leaks because my boost gauge read like -15. another think could be that i have an oil cooler and trans cooler infront of the radiator.
 
mike86ttype said:
yeah it could be that valve. it looks pretty old. i don't think i have any vacumn leaks because my boost gauge read like -15. another think could be that i have an oil cooler and trans cooler infront of the radiator.
Just feel the heater hose outbound to see if hot coolant is goingthru heater core.

Oil coolers dont hurt condensor's function very much at all.
 
One more point on this. There is a comprehensive troubleshooting guide in the GM service manuals and aren't that expensive $75 from Helminc the last time I checked.

They're cumbersom
Hard to find things in (they have all buick models in them)
And take a lot of space.

But it has every bit of factory trouble shooting information you could ask for Everyone needs a set
 
Why not just try using a little later style blower motor (after all, that is what actually moves the air anyway)-I think I used a later model Blazer motor in mine but I wired the HI setting off a relay (from the climate control switch) to get rid of some of the resistance. It blows harder or faster, whatever. And, check your evap. core box at the firewall with the AC on-make sure you don't have a little bit of cool air blowing outside of it-you can get the replacement sticky tape stuff and seal it or use expandable foam in a bottle, too. I also like to use household type cold pipe insulation around the low pressure hoses under the hood to help fend off radiant heat. In my car I get regular 38-42 degree vent temps and that's with an R134 retrofit, a stock condensor and a Mark VIII fan (5000 cfm!) with progressive controller. I'm biased because I only use what I sell but it seems to be the best set-up for getting the most out of a G-body AC system! -Jabin
 
I have a mark VIII fan on my jeep but it would not fit the GN core. How did you do it. Could you send me a pic please. Turbo1002@aol.com. Also Do you know which year blazer you used for the motor and fan?
Thank You
 
Sal Lubrano said:
I have a mark VIII fan on my jeep but it would not fit the GN core. How did you do it. Could you send me a pic please. Turbo1002@aol.com. Also Do you know which year blazer you used for the motor and fan?
Thank You
How about posting the pic?
May be easier for everyone. (???)
 
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