My car ate my puck.....

[zapp240]

I was taking the car out for a spin today and was really freaked out by a no boost condition. After reading a few dozen post here on "no boost" got paranoid that a major malfunction happened. after starting on what seemed to be the most common issue, started with the waste-gate actuator rod. after pulling the clip , noticed that the puck arm could travel 360°, uh oh. after taking the RJC 3" dp off, found the puck was gone.

Well know the question is, do I need to replace the entire downpipe or is there a way to get a new puck on the one i have. it is already fitted with my wb O2 bung.

Any idea's?

 

[TURBOELKY]

Holy shit. RJC sells replacement pucks, but I would want to know WHY that happened.

 

[zapp240]

Holy shit. RJC sells replacement pucks, but I would want to know WHY that happened.

Had the actuator arm set at 1/8" , and i believe it is an HD actuator, spring compression on the W.G. seems super stiff, not sure if that is the norm for an HD WG. I recently fixed a leak between the dp and cutout by adding a walker 3" inside to 3" outside 6" spacer ( only had 1/8" overlap and wasnt sealed), had to saw off 2" of down pipe so it would fit. The rattle of the saws-all maybe? also have to install a new hanger where the old cat hanger was to relieve a bit of pressure . but it looks like posibly just a bad weld, it happens. I will look on the site for new pucks. Thanks

 

[fastblackracing]

Poor weld quality/puck metal quality....looks like the weld fillet did not penetrate
into the base metal of the puck assembly very well. Or there was an issue
with the base metal.
I have seen the puck welds take everything an HD actuator plus an extra exterior spring
could give it. No way should it have come apart like that.

 

[zapp240]

while I have the down pipe off, any recommendations on the wide -band bung location? Its an AEM WB. they suggest 18" or greater, The spot was already there when i got the car plugged off, when I installed it, it seems to be a bit jumpy, but that could be related to me not having it tuned proper. I purchased a 16 foot Russell -6 SS over braid fuel line that I was going to run for the return line since i couldn't get under 50 psi on my regulator. So happens after running the car for a few weeks with fuel injector cleaner, whatever impedance that was in the line worked it's way out and I was able to get it down below 40 with vacuum off, WOHOO. so I get to play with trying to set up the best tune with the new 93/94 TT chip. So, It would be nice to have a bit more stable reading on the WB to help out. closer to the turbo were i can access it might be to hot so it definitely is in a safe location, it takes about 20 seconds to start reading from cold to heat up. any Ideas? thanks (at 1/2 to WOT it does get stable)

 

[dank GN]

Mine is mounted about 2' down on the DP.

 

[zapp240]

Mine is mounted about 2' down on the DP.

nice, that would still be accessible in mine even with the blower box still in. might buy a second bung since i have the plug already, and just try it at both spots, lol, just don't won't the DP to turn into Swiss cheese with to many holes.

 

[zapp240]

Got the new puck installed , and easy fix with the RJC complete puck assy kit. back on the road again. thanks Jason, thanks guys for the help.