Im running 93 octane with alky. As long as your not knocking the 110 should be fine with the low timing you have. Just by looking at your stall speed I doubt thats going to tell you that you need a new converter. Im sure you are going to go above 5000rpm on your run, thats not the problem. What you need to determine is how tight your converter is... how much rpm drop there is on the shifts and how much its slipping on the top end?
What you need is a Directscan or similar recording so you can watch the rpms throughout the run. Its just too much guesswork without seeing an rpm recording. Download Directscan from http://www.chuengineering.com/ and I can send you some files of my runs with a tight converter vs a loose converter. I don't know who sells Directscan right now but http://www.aggressiveauto.com/ does on their website.
A somewhat tight 3200-3300 stall converter is probably what you want. A lockup unit is preferred for a stock cam because it will keep the rpms down and more in the stock cam powerband (low 5000s). Even 28" tires won't help keep the rpms down if the converter is too loose. Ask me how I know.....
Also, watch your rpms in the burnout box. All you need to do is to heat them up good. Once the tires break loose, I usually just watch the mph and keep it at 50-60mph or so. Less mph and the MT DRs will start sticking. No sense going more mph if I don't need it. Some people put it in 2nd gear so that the torque stays high and prevents it form shifting into 3rd. I'm afraid I'll forget to put it back so I just leave it in drive.
Your times aren't bad with the car and combo. But now you're are going to need more information to get the tune really dialed in. EGT or a wideband O2 is probably something you should have at this point also.
What you need is a Directscan or similar recording so you can watch the rpms throughout the run. Its just too much guesswork without seeing an rpm recording. Download Directscan from http://www.chuengineering.com/ and I can send you some files of my runs with a tight converter vs a loose converter. I don't know who sells Directscan right now but http://www.aggressiveauto.com/ does on their website.
A somewhat tight 3200-3300 stall converter is probably what you want. A lockup unit is preferred for a stock cam because it will keep the rpms down and more in the stock cam powerband (low 5000s). Even 28" tires won't help keep the rpms down if the converter is too loose. Ask me how I know.....
Also, watch your rpms in the burnout box. All you need to do is to heat them up good. Once the tires break loose, I usually just watch the mph and keep it at 50-60mph or so. Less mph and the MT DRs will start sticking. No sense going more mph if I don't need it. Some people put it in 2nd gear so that the torque stays high and prevents it form shifting into 3rd. I'm afraid I'll forget to put it back so I just leave it in drive.
Your times aren't bad with the car and combo. But now you're are going to need more information to get the tune really dialed in. EGT or a wideband O2 is probably something you should have at this point also.
This time I have the new TPro and a V1 intercooler. Hoping for the ten second pass!
I put a new o2 sensor in and an ATR rear sway bar. It was a hot (low90's) and humid (84%) day. the car slowed down. Best it went was 12.20@109.5. 60ft. sucked too. Think the best was 1.75. I bought another moto and trans but still not sure what which I'm going to build. The 4.1 or 3.8. Either way it will be done up nice. I just didn't want to hurt the stock motor 
