My suspension plans (edit/comment where necessary)
- Thread starter nero
- Start date
Other than stronger components and weight savings over stock, not much more benefit than any other manufacturer. I got a good deal on them and I know they make quaility parts, I'm sure others can say the same about other vendors.
Also, as UNDER-PRESSURE mentioned, putting in new bushings and braces will definately stiffen these cars up.
Rob - Thanks for the info, keep me posted on the differences in feel and stance you notice!! Take some before and after shots!!!
TK - You notched the frame for the rears? What BS do you have? I've been told 4.75 BS requires no mods, not even air bags. How do you like the QA1 shocks and are they a pain to adjust? Do they even need to often be adjusted (assuming you're a daily driver and seldom track person like me)?
thanks
TK - You notched the frame for the rears? What BS do you have? I've been told 4.75 BS requires no mods, not even air bags. How do you like the QA1 shocks and are they a pain to adjust? Do they even need to often be adjusted (assuming you're a daily driver and seldom track person like me)?
thanks
What braces do you recommend? I'm especially digging the braces sold at scandc, they look LEGIT!!! However, Marcus told me that they're on serious back order--and that says a lot too!! Any other braces you could recommend?
I'm running a 17 X 10 wheel (with 315 nitto's) with 5" backspacing . I notched the rear to really tuck my wheels under the car so I could lower it without the tire rubbing the fender lip (also to get my slicks under there for the track) most TR's that have wide tires are usually at stock ride hieght and they stick out a little much for my taste.
As for the QA1s, they are a little PIA to adjust, only time I adjust them is for the track, and that is mainly the rears which are much easier to get to than the fronts. They have enough adjustability so you can road course with them to setting them up for a soft ride for normal street driving or drag race on them. Lots of adjustabilty.
I have poly body bushings along with the trunk X braces and frame to cross member braces under the front. I didn't see the braces on scandc, but anything to stiffen these cars up will help.
As for the QA1s, they are a little PIA to adjust, only time I adjust them is for the track, and that is mainly the rears which are much easier to get to than the fronts. They have enough adjustability so you can road course with them to setting them up for a soft ride for normal street driving or drag race on them. Lots of adjustabilty.
I have poly body bushings along with the trunk X braces and frame to cross member braces under the front. I didn't see the braces on scandc, but anything to stiffen these cars up will help.
Gary Wells
White turbo Buick trailer park trash
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2002
Kirban performance has a 3 piece front frame brace that is very similiar to the SC&C 1 piece design. That's what I run and it clears my Thunderfab slic ok.
UNDER-PRESSURE
..... Member .....
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2006
Another good source for body & frame braces is your Local Junkyard. Many other GM G bodies have front frame braces, underhood braces & the famous GNX rear seat brace. For a little work & a fresh coat of paint you can have genuine GM braces. It always amazed me that the G body that made the most HP had the fewest braces & body bushings? Way to go GM!!
p.s. The Pontiac Grand Prix's usually have ALL the braces.
p.s. The Pontiac Grand Prix's usually have ALL the braces.
Thanks for clearing that up, bro! I'll be in touch with you soon! *PM coming your way*
Thanks for all the info everyone, I'll look at Kirban's site after lunch.
TK, here's the brace from scandc;
Savitske Classic & Custom
TK, here's the brace from scandc;
Savitske Classic & Custom
You already know you're going to be hit up!!! :biggrin:
Just got your front end kit because it's tried and true: MOOG parts (and centerlink was included)!!!!!!!
Silver Fox
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
Will do to include the photos and measurements of front end heighth before and after.
Rob
Silver Fox
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
Hey Rob, any updates?
Nero,
My job keeps me on the road most of the time. I was in San Antonio last week and just got back from Hawaii a few hours ago. All my parts arrived in my absence, so I am good to go. I'm a bit jet lagged from all the travel in the last few weeks/days/hours, so I will not try to install this weekend (not too mention it's my 13th wedding anniversary this weekend). I think I will only be out of town next week for a day or two, so I am planning on trying to install everything next Saturday and/or Sunday. Sorry for the delay, but I enjoy doing this stuff too much to pay someone else to do it.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Rob
Silver Fox
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
Nero,
I am making progress (LOL)...I sprayed everything with penetrating oil today. I plan on swapping out this Friday. Here's at least a pic of the new upper control arms:
Rob
Silver Fox
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
Great to hear it went easy for you. Any special tips or tools you recommend to make the removal/installation easier?
Rob
jack up the front of your car, put jackstands on both sides. Put your jack under the lower control arm and jack it up to load the suspension. Take out the cotter pin on the ball joint, loosen the bolt about 1", and slowly lower the jack. The spring will do the work separating your ball joint. when you undo the two splined bolts attaching the uppers to the frame, make sure you don't strip the splines, it'll be a pain to reinstall. Also make sure you take the shims and remember where they were and in what order. A zip tie works well to secure them together if you are going to take a while. Then, just bolt on the upper arm, put in the shims, attach the ball joint, and put the cotter pin back in. Piece of cake. Oh yeah, don't forget to take the wheels off...
