N20

[TurboMike]

Thinking about putting N20 on a IROC since his Procharger went south. There is a single wire coming from his harness that say N20.

Is there additional wiring that needs to be purchased?

Also how does the FAST know the car is on N20? I can't find a place to "enable" it.

Also is a B to B limited to a 2 stage?

Should we go Dry or Wet? We're looking at around 200 shot or better.

 

[bobc455]

Mike-

I can't respond to all of your posts, but here goes.

On my car (a Buick 455 w/ 2 stages of N2O) I don't even tell the Speedpro that I'm running nitrous (mine is a wet system). I did it that way for a few reasons- 1) It can only control a single stage of nitrous (unless you go sequential, which I didn't) 2) My car is tough to launch, and I don't want the nitrous kicking in unless I tell it to.

If you do have the Speedpro control it, you won't need any additional wiring. As I recall (been a while since I looked at the wiring diagram), there are three wires- one for arming the system, one for a pushbutton input, and one to ground the relay that controls your nitrous solenoids.

Everyone has their preferences on the dry vs. wet issue, but I like to keep an intake manifold designed for a carb as a wet system and an intake manifold designed for port FI as a dry system (a lot of those manifolds won't flow the gasoline properly). Obvious drawback to the dry system is that you have to get much bigger injectors, and this could potentially hurt idle quality and/or emmissions.


A 200HP system will be great- I hope the motor has been strengthened to handle that much HP.

Hope that helps- anything else, feel free to email me at bobc@gnttype.org

-Bob Cunningham

 

[Craig Smith]

On a bank to bank system, you have one stage of nitrous available. As Bob mentioned, 2 stage control is only available on sequential systems.

The wires for the nitrous stuff are as follows:

On the N2O plug, there is a pink wire, a white wire, and a blue wire. The pink wire is the enable wire. It needs to see +12V to arm the system. The white wire switches to ground to activate a relay for the first stage. On 2 stage systems, the blue wire activates the second stage.

Aside from the enable wire, there are RPM and TPS thresholds that you must set in order for the nitrous to activate. Once you cross these thresholds, AND the enable wire sees +12V, the nitrous will activate as programmed.

Craig

 

[TurboMike]

We are just trying to find a quick alternative. He had a ProCharger with a D1 compressor that went 132mph BEFORE the FAST, but it puked and ATI says, "tooo bad, no warranty" so N20 is the cheapest route.