Narrowband and wideband disagree. PL files inside.

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"The battery voltage also started reading low again." Why not fix this issue B4 looking at the WB/NB problems?
 
I do have the gauge with the WB, and it agrees with what PL and SM are showing.

I got it all back together and running tonight. It runs okay.
When I first started it, and the chip allowed closed loop idle, the narrowband and the wideband were cycling together just fine. The battery voltage was also reading correctly. I shut it off, and restarted it, and with an open loop idle in park, the narrowband sat at .840, and the wideband sat at 12.8-13.2. The battery voltage also started reading low again.

Tomorrow, I'll hook the laptop up, and take it up on the hwy to see what's going on. I'm also going to hook a multimeter to the O2 input to the ECM, and see if what PL and SM are telling me is true. If it's not, I can only assume that the ECM is junk.
Does your chip run closed loop above an idle/while cruising?
 
"The battery voltage also started reading low again." Why not fix this issue B4 looking at the WB/NB problems?

Battery voltage on the scanmaster has always read low on this car. I have underdrive pulleys on it with a 140A alternator, and SM usually reads 12.5-12.7. Occasionally it will read as high as 13.5. I have already verified all the powers going to the ECM, and with the car running, they're 14.2-14.3V. I always wrote it off as a voltage drop inside the ECM.

I didn't get a chance to hook up to PL today, but it does look like the O2 is cycling properly now. I'll know more tomorrow.
 
Here's a couple more logs.
One is a quick 3rd gear pull on the hwy, and the other is starting off from a stop, and accelerating.
Things are looking better, but in the hwy file, the WB is still very rich for no alky.
I'm wondering if the grounds still had a little resistance. I cranked them down pretty good this time, and made sure that all the surfaces that any ground attached to were spotless.
 

Attachments

If you select the Dynojet wideband on the configuration screen,your wide band seems to mimic your narowband quite well. Your wideband is not reading correctly.
 
If you select the Dynojet wideband on the configuration screen,your wide band seems to mimic your narowband quite well. Your wideband is not reading correctly.

I would agree with you, but the gauge for the WB agrees with what SM and PL are saying. Maybe the WB sensor is no good?
 
I would agree with you, but the gauge for the WB agrees with what SM and PL are saying. Maybe the WB sensor is no good?
How does the car feel at full throttle? Your wideband numbers seem to be uniformly off as if it's output voltage is wrong,either high or low.
 
How does the car feel at full throttle? Your wideband numbers seem to be uniformly off as if it's output voltage is wrong,either high or low.

It feels rich. It doesn't spool as quickly, and feels a little sluggish, but I'm running 7lb less boost too.
I took the car on a 100 mile drive today, and noticed under light acceleration, around 0 vac/boost, the WB was at 10.4-11.0, while the O2 was .730-.760.
I think you're right. The WB is goofy. I'm going to see if it can be calibrated, and I'm going to check the powers and grounds for it too.
 
It feels rich. It doesn't spool as quickly, and feels a little sluggish, but I'm running 7lb less boost too.
I took the car on a 100 mile drive today, and noticed under light acceleration, around 0 vac/boost, the WB was at 10.4-11.0, while the O2 was .730-.760.
I think you're right. The WB is goofy. I'm going to see if it can be calibrated, and I'm going to check the powers and grounds for it too.
Your narrowband numbers seem correct. I think you are currently a little lean. You can always add 2% and take away 2 % fuel and see how it feels while noting the O2 numbers and spark retard.
 
I really appreciate the help.
The car still isn't fixed. I tested the WB, and it is in fact working properly, and at idle, and low speeds the NB and the WB agree with each other. It's only at hwy speeds, tip-in throttle, and WOT that I'm having issues. I'm bringing my Snap-0n vantage home tomorrow, and will be figuring the POS out on Thursday.

I'm thinking I've got high resistance in a connector somewhere in the O2 ckt, or a flaky ECM.

I detest having to run low boost. I had a '12 5.0 Mustang kick my a$$ today....not happy. :mad:
 
Lowell Used Autoparts has an ecu for $45:
1986
Engine Computer
Buick Regal 1227148 stock #92819 $45 Lowell Used Auto Parts USA-MA(Lowell) E-mail 800-952-9775 / 978-454-4444
 
I really appreciate the help.
The car still isn't fixed. I tested the WB, and it is in fact working properly, and at idle, and low speeds the NB and the WB agree with each other. It's only at hwy speeds, tip-in throttle, and WOT that I'm having issues. I'm bringing my Snap-0n vantage home tomorrow, and will be figuring the POS out on Thursday.

I'm thinking I've got high resistance in a connector somewhere in the O2 ckt, or a flaky ECM.

I detest having to run low boost. I had a '12 5.0 Mustang kick my a$$ today....not happy. :mad:
If your wideband is correct,you should be able to remove a lot of fuel with the chip and the car should respond in a very noticeable way. Have you tried leaning it out? A chip reset is always something to try. You can also disconnect the narrowband and run it in open loop to test.
 
I lent my spare to Peter Moretti when he removed the DFI from MutantX and he still has it. Give them a call to make sure they still have it to save yourself a trip.
 
I think I figured one of my issues out today. I mounted the WB sensor just after the first bend in the downpipe. I think the sensor is overheating. I'm going to have to move it and see what happens. Hopefully the sensor didn't get damaged.
 
I think I figured one of my issues out today. I mounted the WB sensor just after the first bend in the downpipe. I think the sensor is overheating. I'm going to have to move it and see what happens. Hopefully the sensor didn't get damaged.
Should be,at least,18" after the turbine. Where did you have it mounted?
 
Got mine in the straight section about in the same area of the engine/trans joint and it's about at the 10 o'clock position toward the engine. Plenty of access and not much chance of moisture running over it.
 
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