Need help with FAST system

[Swede2]

Hi!

A friend in our club here in Sweden has just got his TTA.

But the car goes really bad, and suddenly it also stops.
It sounds like it missfires or just goes on 4-5 cylinders.

He wonders if its anything wrong in the setup of the FAST. Well it would be a big help if anyone could look at it so we can see if its fuel related or if its another fault, maybe the plugs or vacuum leaks...

http://kiruna.d2g.nu/FAST/30july2004.gct
http://kiruna.d2g.nu/FAST/30july2004.log

Thanks in advance.

Daniel

 

[bobc455]

From looking at his file, it looks like:

- At idle, his TPS probably reads 9 - 10. Correct?

- The spart table looks like it could use some help, especially in the "driving" areas (i.e. light throttle, mid-RPM range). It is not uncommon to have 45 - 50 degrees of timing under these conditions.

- His A/F table seems very rich, especially in the "driving" areas. On the other hand, I would think that he is a bit lean at WOT, but this can only be judged by trial and error on the car itself. I would guess he will want 11.8:1 instead of 12.5:1.

- Does the timing indicated by the computer match the timing on the crankshaft? Use a timing light to confirm.

- Are all of his operational parameters correct? Is he running 83# injectors?

Without knowing more specifics, these are the first questions that come to mind.

-Bob Cunningham

 

[norbs]

I have looked at this also, it seems to be surging from watching the kpa, also at 3 psi boost he is extremely rich. The idle is set for closed loop with 13.5 a/f. Now it should run with that if the cam is very mild. I would say the car has a vacuum leak. Why do u need the base cell size to rev 7500 rpm? please change to 6000 rpm. You would set the base cell size to 400. Or you have a dead injector, pull 1 injector wire at a time and if you notice when you take one off and notice not much of a change in idle thats the faulty one

 

[Swede2]

Many thx guys! I will forward this to the owner! Hope he solve his problems. Its a real fast car lol...

Daniel

 

[melvin]

Hello.. I´m the owner of the car.
Thanks for searching for help here "Swede2", I did not even think of that first.

The setup I have now in FAST is done by Sod Bogosian at HYE TECH PERFORMANCE. From what I have heard he is good at these things.

The car, which I bought from Randy Burg, CA in the ending of march is not stock at all. But no, it does not have 83# injectors..
I include what is in the car at the bottom of this post.

Is it possible that FAST has resetted or just deleted everthing that was in there?
The car just started to run really bad when I was out driving. I was not pushing it in any way, just crusing around really slow on the streets.

I don´t even know if the problem is in FAST or somewhere else.
But what I have done so far is:
- Put in new spark plugs, the ones that was in was all black and "wet".
- New spark plug wires.
- New coil pack
- New battery
- I have checked battery grounds, vacuum hoses and all the wiring/connectors I could find. Did not find anything that seems to be wrong/broken.
The MSD box lights up and seems to be working as well.

I would not be suprised if it was something wrong with the FAST setup, but the wierd thing then is that I have not changed anything there. The first time I connected my lap top to it was after the car started to run bad.

Hopw you understand my lousy English..

I'm thankful for all help and tips I can get.

/Daniel

Here is the list on parts that is in my car:
--------------------

INTAKE AND EXHAUST
4” K&N AIR FILTER & EASTERN PERFORMANCE 4” INLET PIPE
T72 TURBONETICS CERAMIC BALL BEARING 72 MM TURBO
TONY DEQUICK FRONT MOUNT AIR TO AIR INTERCOOLER
KENNE-BELL 70MM THROTTLE BODY AND INTAKE PLENUM
MATCHING 1” PLENUM SPACER
ATR EXTERNAL WASTEGATE & MANUAL BOOST CONTROL
CERAMIC-COATED STAINLESS STEEL FACTORY HEADERS
3” STAINLESS STEEL, CERAMIC COATED DOWNPIPE
3” STAINLESS STEEL CAT-BACK ATR “PITBULL” EXHAUST

ENGINE WORK
PORTED AND POLISHED O-RINGED CHAMPION HEADS
CUSTOM ROLLER-FULCRUM ROCKERS
CRANE 212/212 ROLLER CAM
CUSTOM ROSS 9.0:1 CR PISTONS
STEEL MAIN CAPS
NITRITE COATED STEEL CRANK
COMPLETE BALANCE & BLUEPRINT
A/C COMPRESSOR DELETE PULLEY AND BRACKET

IGNITION AND FUEL
“F.A.S.T.” BANK-TO-BANK FUEL-AIR-SPARK MANAGEMENT
WIDE BAND O2 SENSOR
MSD DIS-4 PROGRAMABLE CAPACITOR DISCHARGE MODULE
POWERMASTER 120 AMP ALTERNATOR
REAR MOUNTED OPTIMA BATTERY IN A MOROSO BOX
WALBRO IN-TANK FUEL PUMP WITH ½” FUEL LINE
72 LB/HR SEIMENS INJECTORS
FLAMING RIVER REMOTE BATTERY DISCONNECT
SMC ALCOHOL INJECTION WITH BOOST SENSOR

DRIVELINE AND SUSPENSION
SPECIAL SOFT COMPOUND GOODYEAR EAGLE TIRES
FORD 9” REAR END WITH DETROIT LOCKER AND 3.50:1 RATIO BY CURRIE
PST CARBON FIBER DRIVE SHAFT
KENYON BUILT 200-4R, TRANSGO SHIFT KIT & TRANS BRAKE
3600 STALL PRECISION LOCK-UP TORQUE CONVERTER
SPOHN TORQUE ARM AND DRIVESHAFT LOOP
HOTCHKIS REAR SWAY BAR, END LINKS AND PANHARD ROD
BMC STRUT TOWER BRACE
ALSTON WELDED IN FRAME CONNECTORS
KB SHOCKS

INTERIOR
SPEAKER UPGRADE – STOCK LOCATION (NOT VISIBLE)
STOCK FACTORY AM/FM CASSETTE WITH POWER AMPLIFIER
SONY 10 CD PLAYER INSTALLED IN TRUNK



-

 

[norbs]

try reinsatling the software, and disconnect the msd box and bypass it, turn off closed loop idle also it could be screwing you up, and i dont see o2 correction in you log

 

[melvin]

Originally posted by norbs
try reinsatling the software, and disconnect the msd box and bypass it, turn off closed loop idle also it could be screwing you up, and i dont see o2 correction in you log

I don't want to make any changes in FAST by myself, because I don't understand it at all.
I'm a total newbie at this.

"try reinsatling the software", do you mean reinstalling the FAST software or..?

Is there any "standard" settings I can try to use in FAST to see if I can get the car to at least idle?

 

[melvin]

Is there any battery in the FAST computer that might be dead?

It think the FAST computer has lost all of the settings it had. I tried to start it with the "demo" stteings, just changed it to 6 cyl and #72 injectors, then the car started up and did almost run good on idle.

 

[bobc455]

If you loaded the demo settings, then you over-rode the settings that were in there.

Gotta learn your way around the FAST. Do you understand the concept of the VE table? Once you understand that, the rest of it will kinda fall into place.

-Bob Cunningham

 

[norbs]

You can't be afraid to make changes on the fast system, its the whole idea of owning it is to make changes, so the engine gets its proper a/f ratio. OK, use the base program, you better off than the orginal one at least. But you better put in the correct injector size and cubic inch for starters. If you make a mistake save the program under a different name and you can always load in the orginal one. If you would have kept the july31/gct in you would have hurt the motor for sure racing it. I think you need to read the manual and understand how every thing works, don't rely on your tuner since from what i see he has no clue what he is doing, you have to learn it on your own.

post a few logs of the demo program then and try and not to hit the throttle if it runs without goosing it.

 

[melvin]

Originally posted by bobc455
If you loaded the demo settings, then you over-rode the settings that were in there.

Gotta learn your way around the FAST. Do you understand the concept of the VE table? Once you understand that, the rest of it will kinda fall into place.

-Bob Cunningham

I have saved all the settings that was in there before I load the domo settings. The settings Sod did is the one that are in the first post on this thread.
I have put them back again and the car runs really bad again. No idle and alot of black smoke.

Nope, I don´t understand the concept of the VE table.. So I don't think I'm the right guy to setup FAST from scratch.
But if the set up Sod did is gone or messed up, then there must be something that is wrong with the computer in it self? It started to run bad when I was driving the car and I have not change anything in there.

 

[melvin]

Originally posted by norbs
You can't be afraid to make changes on the fast system, its the whole idea of owning it is to make changes, so the engine gets its proper a/f ratio. OK, use the base program, you better off than the orginal one at least. But you better put in the correct injector size and cubic inch for starters. If you make a mistake save the program under a different name and you can always load in the orginal one. If you would have kept the july31/gct in you would have hurt the motor for sure racing it. I think you need to read the manual and understand how every thing works, don't rely on your tuner since from what i see he has no clue what he is doing, you have to learn it on your own.

post a few logs of the demo program then and try and not to hit the throttle if it runs without goosing it.

So if I put in the demo program again and let it run on idle, can you read something from a smililar log file like the one in the first post?

I will not save over anything, that is the only thing I have control over here.

 

[melvin]

I started up the car and put in the "demo" program. Changed the values to 232cid, 6 cylinder and #72 injectors. I did not do anything else there.

Tha car starts up, it has a little better idle. It is alot of black smoke, but it runs for a while anyway.

Here is the "demo" program renamed to test_1aug2004 and a log file.

http://kiruna.d2g.nu/FAST/1aug2004.log
http://kiruna.d2g.nu/FAST/test_1aug2004.gct

 

[norbs]

Its way to rich, please check if the fuel pressure is 43 lbs at idle, hose off on the reg. when you check. Your iac is not working as the temp is 61f and your idle is not coming up. The throttle follower screen should show the iac position around 10-20 at idle in park hot to maintain the idle speed. Adjust the screw on the throttle body until you see the circle showing rouglhy the iac coming down to this area. if it wont run cold keep tuirning the screw up on the throttle body until it idles around 1300 rpm at 60 f

try this program

http://www3.sympatico.ca/norbz/norb72.gct

 

[melvin]

Thanks for helping me out. I just tried your program, the car idles but it's still running way too rich.

I include a log file here again, I don't know if it says anything that is helpful?

http://kiruna.d2g.nu/FAST/2aug2004.log

 

[melvin]

Originally posted by norbs
Its way to rich, please check if the fuel pressure is 43 lbs at idle, hose off on the reg. when you check. Your iac is not working as the temp is 61f and your idle is not coming up. The throttle follower screen should show the iac position around 10-20 at idle in park hot to maintain the idle speed. Adjust the screw on the throttle body until you see the circle showing rouglhy the iac coming down to this area. if it wont run cold keep tuirning the screw up on the throttle body until it idles around 1300 rpm at 60 f

I don't understand any of this.
What do you mean with "hose off on the reg. When you check"?

Is this a common problem when you are using FAST? First everything work fine and suddenly nothing works, even if you not have touched anything? I mean, I was driving the car and everything was fine, 5 secounds later all of the setup done by Sod is gone.
Is'nt that wierd, or is that something I have to accept when using FAST?

I don't think I can make FAST to work correctly ever again, I don't have the skills for that. It seems like I have to study manuals and forums for weeks just to make small corrections, and this is more to fix than just small corrections... I need to setup everything from scratch if I understood it correctly?

Is it a big job to install the stock computer again? I still have it and a lot of chips too.
Stock computer and smaller injectors, is that easier to get to work again than setup FAST?
I have bought this car in the ending of march and I have only been able to drive about 70 miles in total with it. Really boring.. and soon the winter is here again

 

[Swede2]

Daniel... take it easy now...

Fast is the best fuel management system you can have on our cars. If you get it right no chip in the world can beat FAST.

Hose off on FP... that means you shall check your fuel gauge for 43 lbs at idle. Hmm... du vet såklart vad en justerbar bränsleregulator är. den sitter till höger om plenumet så att säga, nära gaswiren. Du tar bort den svarta slangen som sitter på regulatorn, och sen mäter du bränsletrycket på tomgång. Hoppas du förstår.

Sorry for the Swedish guys, its easier to explain at my language

Daniel

 

[The Swede]

Hello and welcome here melvin!

What they mean with hose off when you check the fuel pressure is that you must remove the vacuum hose that are connected on the adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
The regulator is located on drivers side under the throttle body, a round black/chrome piece with a screw in the middle and a vacuum hose.

Hope you get the car to run good soon!

There are some really nice pieces in it!

 

[melvin]

I have a fuelpressure gauge under the hood. It reads just over 40 at idle.

 

[The Swede]

I just hope that it's easy to put the stock ECM back again so you can enjoy the car before the long winter.....
Melvin lives above the Antarctic Circle here in Sweden.....

And you can also have a custom burned chip for your #72 inj.

Do you know what size the other inj. has?

Anyone that can chime in on how difficult it should be to change back to stock ECM?