Need help with IDing camshaft- Have a part #(I think?)

[Sixxpack2go]

I recently aquired what has turned out to be a somewhat mysterious bundle of engine. I have looked up the part # using Google(and got my expected result- no viable answer). I don't care to waste y'alls valuble time so I was hesitant posting this... but I need specs before I take my project any further. The part number for the camshaft I have is (was given to me by the seller) #49300-12 BV69 3111 93119 HR 114 118. It is a Roller cam. Seller had a 'hunch' it was a 'Comp custom grind' but had only the above info. To me it looks like maybe it could even be 2 different part #s but I am far from a guru on the subject. Any help would be awesome! Thanks, Scott

 

[750H.P.V6]

Scott,

It appears to be a Comp Cams hydraulic roller on a 114 LSA. I did some checking and the 3119 profile is 224 degrees duration@ .050" with a .350" lobe lift.

Neal

 

[Sixxpack2go]

Scott,

It appears to be a Comp Cams hydraulic roller on a 114 LSA. I did some checking and the 3119 profile is 224 degrees duration@ .050" with a .350" lobe lift.

Neal

Thanks a bunch Neal. I knew that I was bound to find an answer here! This is my first Turbo Buick so it has been a slow process(actually sometimes more like learning Chinese). In any case, that seems like a somewhat 'hairy' cam. At least I have a good solid starting point to go from and should be able to select some of the 'supporting' components with a bit more certainty. Again, much thanks for your expertise/resourcefulness.

Scott

 

[earlbrown]

That's a huge ass cam. I really can't imagine what kind of engine you have to even come close to supporting such a bump stick.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

The 3111 lobe is 230 duration. Looks like a 230/224@114lsa.

 

[earlbrown]

^@.050" It's 280* total. They had to spread the lobes pretty damn far apart to minimize the overlap as much as possible. There's a good chance it's either having to open the intake early, close the exhaust late, or both.

 

[Sixxpack2go]

Thanks guys for the input- like I said initially, it is my first Buick v6 so I am trying to put things into perspective. This is also my first experience with a roller. Seems these cams can bank up fast to open and also drop off at a steep rate to close quickly if I am comprehending it properly. The lift height threw me a bit as I it seemed quite high to me... but I am used to working with Pontiacs previously. Is this a cam that I should pull and just replace it??

 

[forcefed3.8's]

What are your goals?

 

[750H.P.V6]

The 3111 lobe is 230 duration. Looks like a 230/224@114lsa.

I thought he might have an extra 1 in the P/N. I suspected it was a 224 /224 cam but I believe you're right.

Neal

 

[Sixxpack2go]

Guess I should add... Rest of the engine consists of B & B'ed rotating assembly, Jasons girdle and scraper, forged eagle rods, Ross forged pistons, ARP studs/bolts holding mains, rods and heads on. I am forgetting several things, just can't recall everything. Oh, the heads appear to be nicely ported and are iron. the intake is stock with a good amount of portwork done. Doghouse is accufab that matches the 70mm TB assy. Looks to be custom machined HS rockers held down by what looks to be even more RJC hardware. And that is how I bought her about a month ago(from a local machine shop that specializes in 'Cranks' here in 'South Florida'). I did check the seller out and they are very well respected both locally and abroad.... Afterthought- Shop owner said CR is 9-1

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Too much cam. How fast do you want to go? Is it a stock crank?

 

[Sixxpack2go]

Forgot to mention the crank. Forged but not sure details. Fast wise, I have no set 'goal'. I just kinda planned on going as fast as it would take me(if that makes sense). I am SO doing this all on a shoestring budget LOL. I would be quite content with mid-upper 10's BUT I need it to be able to keep the A/C going and comfortably/semi-reliably drive her daily if I choose

 

[earlbrown]

Odds are you have too much cam. The one you have might work well in a very high compression, hi revving, N/A engine..... Except for that 114LSA.... but there's no way to know for sure unless you know everything about your engine.

I'm not a fan of fat lobes with wide LSAs. These engines do rev to the moon so long duration cams aren't really good for much other than bench racing.

 

[Sixxpack2go]

Seems like my best course of action to take is to call the shop I bought it and be certain the #'s I have are the indeed the same #'s as I was given the first time. He did say he had a 'build card' for it he had to have the secratary/wife locate in the office. That would be ideal on all levels. Next, I'll check the 'lift' #'s at the rockers and see what I find. Lastly, I see that one can actually e-mail or even CALL Comp, and speak to an actual person that can assist me with finding out add'l answers(although I feel that's what has been accomplished here with everyones help). And lastly, then removing the timing cover, etc., etc., pulling the cam out and then replacing it with something more rational/sensible for what often is and will continue to be my drive 'whenever and wherever' car that I love so much. I still want to run 10's and think it rather easy to accomplish with what I have. More advice shall be sought in the very near future and I'll fill in more of the blanks about the car and my remaining setup. THANKS guys- I got the answers I needed to make a logical decision!

 

[Sixxpack2go]

Odds are you have too much cam. The one you have might work well in a very high compression, hi revving, N/A engine..... Except for that 114LSA.... but there's no way to know for sure unless you know everything about your engine.

I'm not a fan of fat lobes with wide LSAs. These engines do rev to the moon so long duration cams aren't really good for much other than bench racing.

Thanks Earl. I agree and even agree more it isn't what I need. I don't want/need astronomical HP #s to be happy, I just want to be fairly reliable and PDQ, but do it on the downlow.

 

[earlbrown]

That's the thing. The side effect of having too much cam is NOT astronomical HP. It's always better to err on she small side when it comes to getting cams wrong.


And, honestly, I'd put that ''I wanna run 10's with not problem'' stuff out of your mind. It takes a hellova lot more than just 10 second power to actually have a car that runs 10's. These cars do NOT respond to check book hotrodding. There's many a '10 second build' out there ripping off 12's.


There's two ways to learn how to make these cars fast. One is to through a bunch of cool guy parts at it, blow it up, throw more money at it, fail, get pissed off and sell it.

The other is to build a reliable engine, make it run right and enjoy the car. From there make the WHOLE CAR better/faster/stronger. (this is the method I recommend) A good running 'stock' GN with bolt on's is usually faster/quicker/more steetable than anything the owners ever driven.



Just remember, there's only three facets to hotrodding------- power, reliability, and budget.


Pick two of them.