What am I working with?

[Anthony P]

You are welcome. Wait 'til the girls reach driving age and they insist, "Dad, take me driving - IN THE BUICK!"

Those woodgrain Limited dash plaque and bezels don't really come up a lot as I've seen - especially as a set. Yours has the grey tones and they look really good. glad to see the dash is not all hacked up and that there are no gauges mounted in the dash plaque like in the '90s.

Good progress on the RPO codes. I figure you've found the RPO code help on gnttype.org. Attached below are PDF's to complete your work. Note that the GM Master list from Nov 2002 has omitted some codes from the '80s that are no longer active/applicable and has re-assigned other codes. My GN decoding is complete and the F-body forum sourced document is period correct.

recover the steering wheel:
the solution is in this thread: https://turbobuick.com/threads/recovered-steering-wheels.459218/

Wastegate solenoid:
yours is missing. with a TT chip, ECM is controlling/bleeding excess boost pressure via that solenoid. check out these two threads below...
https://turbobuick.com/threads/boost-solenoid.460359/

https://turbobuick.com/threads/stock-wastegate-solenoid-valve-available-aftermarket.450728/

the second thread got hijacked after I did the informational write-up whereas it turned into a diagnostic session by another member.

Bottom line is that you can use either the factory 84-85 wastegate solenoid or the 86-87/89 TTA wastegate solenoid. don't get suckered into buying NOS 86-87/89 TTA solenoids for hundreds of dollars. there are plenty of good used ones around and there are some NOS 84-85 solenoids around. just ask.

Brakes:
when you get to overhauling the brake system, you'll want one of those brass proportioning valves. If replacing the brake lines, Classic tube gets my vote - OE or Stainless. If replacing the 3 flex hoses (front wheels & above differential) OE AC Delco or Raybestos via RockAuto or Amazon works. If choosing the braided flex lines, just know there is some rumbling about the fitment of these kits purchased thru the vendors. Some vendors, the kit manufacturer is unknown as the 3 braided lines arrive in an unmarked plastic bag. Hoses have no identifiable markings. The end result is the hoses for the front are too short and don't permit the wheel to fully turn. For this reason, I purchased the Russell kit, part # 692100, from Summit where one reviewer noted the kit "fit like a glove" on his 87 Turbo-T.

Converting to Vacuum brakes: check out the dual diaphragm booster vs. the single diaphragm. PLUS the topic search results here.

Converting to Hydroboost: two interesting options below:

http://www.cedarcrestspeedlab.com/converting-to-hydroboost-brakes-turbo-regal/

https://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/44195/CPB+HYDRO+BOOST+CONVERSION+KIT+#7619.html

 

[Anthony P]

when you begin looking for a replacement pass. side wheel well, so no more dump pipe hole, recognize that there is a difference between that part for turbo buicks and all other G-bodys.

on the turbo buicks, the area behind the coolant reservoir towards the firewall is FLAT.

ALL other G-bodys have 2 raised mounting bosses as seen in the pic below.



the driver's side wheel well is the same for all g-bodies.

best source for a replacement is from a turbo buick parts car.

 

[Anthony P]

pic of driver's side wheel well below - marked "TURBO 25525715" just in front of power steering reservoir bracket and left of cruise control. so maybe the driver's side is not the same turbo vs. non-turbo regals/ g-body as I noted in above post.

 

[Tizzledizzle]

Current goal is get this gal out of there and into ‘shop truck’ duty at our coffee shop. The goal is to have the wagon tuned up and the engine out of the Buick before NYE. I’ll post up here as I start to tear into it.

 

[Tizzledizzle]

So a couple of guys have offered up old stocker parts to me, in this thread. Not wanting to violate any forum rules or social norms. Could anyone comment if it would be frowned on/well received to post up a want ad, looking to collect parts this gal needs that others just want to get rid of?

 

[Anthony P]

I don't see a problem with that idea. post an ad in the parts wanted section and be very clear you are looking for help with this project car.

many folks have stuff collecting dust and don't want to be bothered with trying to sell items here, ebay, anywhere - not worth the time...

some folks would be happy to know their "donated" parts are going to someone who can really use them - a new TB owner who clearly identified his project will take him several years to complete.

it would be expected for you to pay the shipping charges, my opinion.

also remember this:

1. Buick folks are cheap. a $10 part for sale and a buyer will wonder why the seller can't accept $5 and package and ship it for free. really, we are having a conversation over $5?

2. some will say, "this guy bought a TB needing a complete restoration and he wants us to fund it"?

3. opinions will always vary. everyone has one. can't hurt to ask for help. worst case is a no.

 

[Tizzledizzle]

Goldilocks has made it to what I hope to be her final resting place, before being resurrected with some modern bits. Got her moved in and am largely settled in the new space.

After a lot of daydreaming and reading, I think I have a build plan. I bought a Turbo-T not a GN or WE4 car for a reason, so I could be a bit irreverent with the build. I'm settling on the idea of doing a take on what would Buick build today for a GNX.

I want to build a sub 4.5 second 0-60 car. Not looking to be the fastest thing out there, but to be fun and well mannered on a twisty track. It should be comfortable and plush, but still melt your face off. I intend for it to be my DD for me and twin 4 year old girls.

That leads me down the path of 5.3L LS. Blasphemy, I know. I fully intend to turbo it. I like this for a lot of reasons. Not the least of which is the lower cost, higher power and way better dependebality of the modern LS. Plus I can build that myself, but would be shipping off the Turbo 6. If you've read the thread you know I have a huge hill to climb and dropping in a fresh drivetrain and wiring would be a big head start.

Thinking I'll top it off and control it with the new holly kit, so I can tune and change modes on the fly. Looking forward to getting it taken apart, and starting the build. First up is blowing it apart, and putting the body on a tip over jig.

 

[earlbrown]

I want to build a sub 4.5 second 0-60 car. ]

You could have that with a stock V6 and minor bolt on's. Even if it has over 200,000 miles.

Ls is the easy way out, but probably much more doable without some indepth TR knowledge. And you'll just have an old Regal at that point that used to be a turbo V6.

 

[Tizzledizzle]

You could have that with a stock V6 and minor bolt on's. Even if it has over 200,000 miles.

Ls is the easy way out, but probably much more doable without some indepth TR knowledge. And you'll just have an old Regal at that point that used to be a turbo V6.

No doubt, but wouldn't be able to build it myself. Would cost a significant amount more, and wouldn't carry near the DD reliability I'd be looking for based on what I've read the past six months in my studies.

 

[earlbrown]

DD reliability isn't bad on these cars. Mine had over 1/4 million miles on it when it got stolen. (and I was out of town at the time). It was my roadtrip/ DD/ haul off the trash car.

 

["More Boost"]

Congrats on your purchase. Alot of work? yes. Just dont get too frustrated. In the long run it will be well worth the effort. Oh and try to have fun while doing it.