Need installation clarification for Razor's kit

[Bob Smith]

I just received my kit from Razor. I'm attempting to conceal the kit as much as possible. I'm not using the "low level" LED. I'm hoping someone can help clarify the installation instructions for me. It looks like the "turn-on" LED is now part of the remote control & is already wired to the PAC box & it won't be neccessary to mount near the boost gage. There is a twisted brown & orange wire coming from the PAC box, do I leave these wires disconnected?

For my application, it looks like I should wire as follows:
1) black wire from power dist. box to ground
2) red wire from power dist. box to IGN terminal in fuse box
3) green wire from MAP to green wire from PAC controller
4) thin bare silver wire from pump to "0" terminal on power dist. box
5) skin & twist together red wire from pump & red wire from power injector bulb then attach to "+" terminal on power dist. box
6) skin & twist together black wire from pump & black wire from power injector bulb then attache to"-" terminal on power dist. box
7) violet & gray wires from PAC not utilized

Any recommendations for concealing the PAC box? I have a bench seat car & plan to put the small remote box with dial in the ash tray. I don't have much wiring experience & appreciate anyone who can ensure I'm doing this properly.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[2QUIK6]

There should be a separate tiny red LED that you can remotely mount in the boost gauge holder, it will illuminate when the pump turns on. Yes, there is one built into the controller as well.
You may want to run the violet wire to a momentary switch to ground, that keeps the alky from flowing when the momentary switch is pushed to aid in spoolup when power braking at the track.
As far as concelling it, you could mount it under the dash, once you have the controller set and the turn dial at the ramp up speed and volume you want, there really is no reason to mess with it again, just make it where you can easily reach around and turn the dial if need be for some reason of another.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Bob-
If im not too late, i have pics on how i installed my pump to "hide" it completely except for the feed line.
I dont have the wiring done in my car, maybe i should call you!
Call me if you need to
BW

 

[Bob Smith]

Thanks guy's. I do have a small red LED, that I thought was for the "low level" light. The wires are tan & red. I'm not using that feature, so it sounds like I can mount that LED next to the boost gauge on the piller & attach to the orange & brown wires from the PAC box. Should I attach red to orange & tan to brown or does it really make a difference?

I have the pump, new alcohol reservoir & small over-flow tank mounted. I'm pleased with how this is turning out. I mounted the small overflow tank under the radiator, using two existing screws. I have a dummy overflow hose running from the new alcohol reservoir to the radiator. I have a tee near the radiator, with the side towards the alcohol tank blocked. The bottom of the tee goes to the small over-flow tank, mounted out of site.

Thanks again for all of you help!!

Bob

 

[Bob Smith]

I just found found the additional "turn-on" LED with orange & brown wires. Since I'm not using the "low Level" LED, could I use it as my "power injection" light & also mount it next to my boost gauge?
Bob

 

[Razor]

Bob,
You will get better help in the "alky" section of the board.

The "turnon" led is clear(bicolored), has an orange and brown wire. It is "typically" mounted by the boost guage so you can see the system activate as the boost needle rises. Attach orange to orange. Brown to brown. The LED is dim, you wont be able and see it activate if you put it behind the instrument cluster.

If you want to conceal it, install it in the upper corner of your instrument bezel. When the LED turns on red(4-6 PSI).. then goes green as the boost builds past turnon.... it performed a system test letting you know pressure is there and alky is flowing.

The "red" led with "tan and red wires" is for low level. Dont hook it up.. if your not using low level.

The power injection bulb.. not needed.. unless you like the feature.

Please dont change the use of LED's for other purposes. Please dont connect them across your battery to test them. If you have an issue/question.. pick up the phone and call me.. I dont want any guessing, guessing will cost both of us time and money. I've installed this system personally in over 60 Turbo Regals, think i've seen it all by now

And re-read the instructions.. over and over

 

[Razor]

I just received my kit from Razor. I'm attempting to conceal the kit as much as possible. I'm not using the "low level" LED. I'm hoping someone can help clarify the installation instructions for me. It looks like the "turn-on" LED is now part of the remote control & is already wired to the PAC box & it won't be neccessary to mount near the boost gage. There is a twisted brown & orange wire coming from the PAC box, do I leave these wires disconnected?

For my application, it looks like I should wire as follows:
1) black wire from power dist. box to ground
2) red wire from power dist. box to IGN terminal in fuse box
3) green wire from MAP to green wire from PAC controller
4) thin bare silver wire from pump to "0" terminal on power dist. box
5) skin & twist together red wire from pump & red wire from power injector bulb then attach to "+" terminal on power dist. box
6) skin & twist together black wire from pump & black wire from power injector bulb then attache to"-" terminal on power dist. box
7) violet & gray wires from PAC not utilized

Any recommendations for concealing the PAC box? I have a bench seat car & plan to put the small remote box with dial in the ash tray. I don't have much wiring experience & appreciate anyone who can ensure I'm doing this properly.

Thanks,
Bob

1-7 correct.

hth

 

[Bob Smith]

Thanks Razor!! If not necceaasry, I won't use the "power injection" LED. I need one more clarification. I won't be removing the dash bezel, since I'm not using the "low level" or "power injection" LED's. I want to wire the MAP behind the glove box door, but I need clarification.
Thanks again!!
Bob

 

[Razor]

You said in your first post " I don't have much wiring experience".. so you may need to take the easy way out by the sensor itself.

Since you asked..
If you flip down the glove box door, and look to the right.. there will be a plug with a bunch of wires on it.. it will have a green colored wire. This is the same as the green wire on your MAP. You can confirm the wire by either doing a continuity test with an Ohmeter or a voltage test with a DC voltmeter. With the 3 bar sensor in place of the two bar.. everything plugged in.. measure in reference to ground 1.6volts DC with the ignition turned "on". Engine not running. For continuity.. unplug connector on MAP.. one leg of tester into the center pin(green).. the other leg to green behind dash.. if yu have continuity.. it will give you the indication.

Then its a matter of striping back insulation, wrapping the green wire, soldering it.. running it to the green on the PAC.