My 87 has a Jasper's rebuild that started knocking and am sure it's not rebuildable. I have located an 84 regal with a 4.1 (possibly 130,000 miles) Salvage yard. Should I get the crank and use it in a 3.8 block or go ahead and rebuild the whole 4.1. Any advice on which way to go? Would the 4.1 commit me to bigger turbo and injectors. I want a good street/strip. But mostly street. Of course I would like to OWN the street.
Need new motor! 3.8 or 4.1??
- Thread starter Mike70gtx
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Intercooler
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How do you know it isn't rebuildable? Jasper has like a 6 Yr./75,000 mile warranty I think. You have that met? The 3.8 is a better block to build. It would probably be cheaper to fix what you have if Jasper will not.
I bought it with the jaspers in it. It is supposed to have only 40,000 on it. Since I'm not the original owner, I didn't think about pursuing it. I had heard that they probably don't even use a turbo crank. I pulled the pan and there is some play on a few pistons. I'm assuming the bearings on the crank. Is it possible to replace anything with motor in car, from the bottom?
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what boost levels do you like to run??
i like my 4.1 in my street car, it has a te45a turbo and it spools off idle faster than a stock regal with open exhaust!!
but you are limited to boost levels with a stock 4.1 block-
my car with radials was running 11.78 at 118 non lockup convertor at 19-20 psi, that is a AWESOME running street car-
but if you want to go nuts with the boost, stay with your 3.8 and BOOST AWAY
i like my 4.1 in my street car, it has a te45a turbo and it spools off idle faster than a stock regal with open exhaust!!
but you are limited to boost levels with a stock 4.1 block-
my car with radials was running 11.78 at 118 non lockup convertor at 19-20 psi, that is a AWESOME running street car-
but if you want to go nuts with the boost, stay with your 3.8 and BOOST AWAY
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oh, its just knocking???
you can replace the bearings from under the car, but why??
yank the motor, clean it off, inspect it, and maybe, just maybe you can replace the bearings and timing chain-
you would pull it out to replace it in the future right?? so why not just yank it out now, replace what needs to be replaced, and get it back on the road in a few days/weeks/ couple weeks-
you can replace the bearings from under the car, but why??
yank the motor, clean it off, inspect it, and maybe, just maybe you can replace the bearings and timing chain-
you would pull it out to replace it in the future right?? so why not just yank it out now, replace what needs to be replaced, and get it back on the road in a few days/weeks/ couple weeks-
Quick6,
I guess the sound of pulling the motor is a little overwhelming. So I figure if I do pull it, I want to go all the way. I guess if I had a little more confidence in the jasper, it sure seems like it would be worth a try money wise. I did notice the cylinder walls looked a little "scratched". Pulling it could get me quite a few more miles. Can those jaspers handle some mods? I guess I could at least look at the crank and see if it has rolled fillets.
I guess the sound of pulling the motor is a little overwhelming. So I figure if I do pull it, I want to go all the way. I guess if I had a little more confidence in the jasper, it sure seems like it would be worth a try money wise. I did notice the cylinder walls looked a little "scratched". Pulling it could get me quite a few more miles. Can those jaspers handle some mods? I guess I could at least look at the crank and see if it has rolled fillets.
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well.... if you do pull it out to rebuild the motor, then varify that the block is at least a 109 block {late 85 to 87}
and fill it up with good parts that will last longer than cheap ole parts-
if indeed you gotta rebuild it, taking it to the machine shop can easily add up to 2000 bucks for the right stuff-
so maybe pulling it out, checking for the right crank, or reinstalling the correct crank, and putting in new bearing and calling it good for under 300 bucks sounds pretty good doesnt it?
anyway you look at it, plain and simple , it sucks-
good luck and keep us posted on what you find, and what you end up doing-
and fill it up with good parts that will last longer than cheap ole parts-
if indeed you gotta rebuild it, taking it to the machine shop can easily add up to 2000 bucks for the right stuff-
so maybe pulling it out, checking for the right crank, or reinstalling the correct crank, and putting in new bearing and calling it good for under 300 bucks sounds pretty good doesnt it?
anyway you look at it, plain and simple , it sucks-
good luck and keep us posted on what you find, and what you end up doing-
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aint no thang but a chicken wing!!
and that 300 bucks includes, timing chain, oil pan gasket{NO RTV}, pickup tube, roller cam button, felpro rear main seal {do not use the pins, just press in ALOT of RTV} felpro intake gasket, and felpro timing cover gasket kit with neoprime gasket-
i always use this stuff from NAPA, it comes in a CAN with a screw on cap, its called COPPER COAT, and i use it to seal the headers to heads,and the x over to the headers-
HTH
wanner@kc.rr.com
and that 300 bucks includes, timing chain, oil pan gasket{NO RTV}, pickup tube, roller cam button, felpro rear main seal {do not use the pins, just press in ALOT of RTV} felpro intake gasket, and felpro timing cover gasket kit with neoprime gasket-
i always use this stuff from NAPA, it comes in a CAN with a screw on cap, its called COPPER COAT, and i use it to seal the headers to heads,and the x over to the headers-
HTH
wanner@kc.rr.com
