Car ran great until today. Taking it back to the garage to put her away , did a small test hit. Left at 0 boost and had a smooth clean pull with no knock upto about 60 and let out. That's when the car started bucking like it was about to stall out. Kinda felt like I blew off a vac line, but that's wasn't the case as far as I can tell. Thought maybe fuel pump took a shit, but fp was on the mark and so was the vac at idle at about 18. Check to see if any plug wires were lose and they were good. Brake boosted the car while at the house and it starts to cut out and acts like its about to stall. Did it again after it idles for a minute or two and it built boost like its supposed to. So something is cutting out. Not sure if it's fuel or electrical. Any ideas where I can start to diagnose this. Far as I know ign coil is stock as a friend mentioned that may be a culprit. Need some help. Thanks
Need some direction.
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Almost 70 views and no ideas? Found out my car has the original coil and module on the car. 130,000 miles and 23lbs of boost. I'm thinking she took a shit.any other ways to confirm? I know some have tested the coils and some being trash while still in the recommended range for out cars. Can't be cam sensor because the car wouldn't start If that was the culprit right? car just bogs out and almost stalls when I try and build some boost. Not a backfire or anything. Al vac lines are good and FP is at 43 with line off. I don't wanna throw parts at the thing. Hopefully can find a good working coiI can use to test her out.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
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MAF x 2. Check codes, is the check engine light on?
Gene Van Horn
Active Member
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Tap on the maf with a skrewdriver or wrench or something while the car running, if begins to stall out maf is going. Also check o2 senser could also cause this problem. Those are two quick checks, if not problem then things get more complicated.
MAF is stock. Never had any lights or codes in scan master until today . I swapped out buddy's coil and module and it threw a code 42. With my set up their were no codes or lights on.
If I tap on the MAF it should stumble at idle? I'll try that tomm with my coil and module on the car.
If I tap on the MAF it should stumble at idle? I'll try that tomm with my coil and module on the car.
Stumble yes.
Also, take it for a drive, switch scanmaster to AF. Do a 3rd gear full throttle pull. If it doesn't lock onto 255, it's bad.
At this point, a 30 yr old, 130,000 mi stock MAF, it's junk.
Time for an ls1/translator setup.
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
Also, take it for a drive, switch scanmaster to AF. Do a 3rd gear full throttle pull. If it doesn't lock onto 255, it's bad.
At this point, a 30 yr old, 130,000 mi stock MAF, it's junk.
Time for an ls1/translator setup.
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
mikestertwo
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The tap test doesn't always tell you the condition of the MAF. It still could be bad even though it doesn't stumble when you tap on it. If it doesn't stumble I still would change it with a known good one to make sure.
It'll stumble bad if I even tried to get into the throttle what so ever. Plans were for a translator and new MAF just never got around to it. Trying to save up for a new daily driver. Just don't wanna start throwing parts at it till I figure out what's going on with it. Buddy taking a known good coil and module off his car. Goin to try that hopefully tomm.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
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Ask him to bring his MAF and/or Translator setup too. It's easier to swap than the module.
