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topfuel

nitro sniffer
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
Messages
964
It's time to pull my 100k mile bone stock long block and take it to the next level. I talked with my local Buick guru and here's what he suggested:
Fully ported and polished factory irons with oversized valves, ported intake, 57lb injectors, .20 over J/E pistons, stock rods with polished beams and ARP bolts, forged steel crank, billet center mains, full roller cam and a TE45a to top it off.
He'll be calling me next week to give me a $$ figure on all this stuff but I'm afraid it may be over my budget. If it is, I may have to re-use my stock crank and go with a hydraulic cam instead of a roller.
My goal is low to mid 11's, what do you guys think?
 
keep the stock crank for sure. People are doing 9's with em. You probably don't have to do a roller cam either unless you are going for some high rpm stuff.
 
85HOT-T said:
keep the stock crank for sure. People are doing 9's with em. You probably don't have to do a roller cam either unless you are going for some high rpm stuff.

Yeah I've read stock cranks are pretty reliable if you have a good tune and no knock. He already told me if my crank checks out ok I don't "need" to
replace it but it would be good insurance ($500 worth).
The roller was also optional, obviously it's the ideal choice but he said there are hydraulics that are good too.
 
IMO, and experience, the 57's are too small for a for a 45a. Should start w/72's to be safe. Brian
 
what you think 57's are too small. I have 009's. Just use an adjustable FP regulator.
 
Fuelie600 said:
IMO, and experience, the 57's are too small for a for a 45a. Should start w/72's to be safe. Brian

May be true Fuelie but it was explained to me that big injectors like those
are better suited for fAST or DFI control. Apparently stock ecm chip parameters are somewhat limited compared to a DFI making it difficult to
control big injectors throughout the rpm range.
I'm sure people do it all the time but he recommends a DFI after 57 lbs. for best results, and I don't want to go down that road yet.
I'm spraying progressive alky as well for additional fueling, hopefully it'll
be enough for my goal. :confused:
 
If it was my car, i would get a lockup 3500 stall convertor,te45a,THDP,Rjc bleeder valve and power plate, high Z 60 lbs injectors a razor alky kit,and erics chip.
I would opt for the stock crank, steel main caps, and ditch the stock cam for a billet roller cam. I would hate to see a cam lobe wipe out and send metal into the motor-
If you buy one roller cam, your good to go and not have to worry about eating a lobe.

The alky will supplement fuel instead of bigger injectors, what size do you currently have?
BW
 
Quick6'n'-K.C. said:
If it was my car, i would get a lockup 3500 stall convertor,te45a,THDP,Rjc bleeder valve and power plate, high Z 60 lbs injectors a razor alky kit,and erics chip.
I would opt for the stock crank, steel main caps, and ditch the stock cam for a billet roller cam. I would hate to see a cam lobe wipe out and send metal into the motor-
If you buy one roller cam, your good to go and not have to worry about eating a lobe.

The alky will supplement fuel instead of bigger injectors, what size do you currently have?
BW

Forgot to mention the trans will be going back to Jimmys for a check up and
to have the convertor restalled to 3500. I'm thinking about ditching the lock up because it failed on me after 10k miles, probably sending clutch material
through my trans. I don't know if I have a single or multi disc unit, but either
way I think a 3500lb car is hard on those small lock up clutches at WOT.

I haven't ruled out a roller cam, it's just a matter of budget. If I can keep the stock crank the roller will become more affordable. By the time all is said and done with a roller setup I'd be looking at around $800 or so right?

I'm using 42.5s right now with progressive alky and dual 340s in the tank.
This setup is probably enough to drown my current combo.
Do the high Z 60s require the ecm driver mod?
 
The 60s can be used with a stock computer, no driver modification needed.

entire cam kit from www.fullthrottlespeed.com is 799.00 with pushrods, if you contact comp cams directly it may be 60.00 cheaper, but it doesnt include the pushrods. Well, thats what i gather from a buddy in knoxville.

Get with Eric and see if 009s and a dual kit is big enough for heads and cam with te45a, you will be limited by boost i imagine.
i will be running 50s with a dual nozzle kit, i will be pushing the limit running 600 HP, but will supplement with a 7th and tad better gas.
IF i can get away with 24lbs and 24° of timing on 104, then i should be able to up 6 lbs on meth and up the timing.
Your car is heavy, you need more injector, mine is light so i dont have to worry about it.
All depends on how much you want to spend on this project,
If low to mid 11s is your goal, then i would get 60s,51-54 turbo,race gas, front mount. Good enough for 1.60 sixty foots and run 11.0 at 122 in a full weight car. Just depends on how well you can tune it.
 
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