new ebay headers

Finished hooking up downpipe, very tight with a 3inch ATR! Header is kissing the DP. Had to use a block of wood behind DP to get it to line up with my dump pipe. High temp RTV on both pipes and installed band clamp. Started engine definetly a different tone. No leaks noted. I used the ATR copper header gaskets they work nice. If it doesn't snow this weekend I'll take it out to see how much gain if any Just by installing these :cool: . Phil
 
FlyinGN said:
I did a little more investigating and it seems that the ones from S&S are actually made in the USA by XS power.
Can anyone varify??

http://www.xs-power.com/
yeah XS Power is also SSAutoChrome. Have you guys seen the price of XS Power's turbos? I was looking at those about a month ago and thought it was too good to be true. 70mm turbos for 300 bucks. Scary but very tempting. Actually look through all their turbos, and you'll be stunned at the prices. I could actually afford a new turbo if I bought from them, and it would be a bigger turbo to boot. But I have to wonder about the metallurgy used and the balancing....biggest question is, will these turbos last, and will they blow apart and destroy my engine? :eek: Dont just look at the XS-Power website in the link given above. You have to go to ebaymotors and look around. They make more models of turbos than they show on the XS site.
 
I bought a set of the JDMmotorz. Will see what they look like when or if they arrive. I just had to buy some for $191.
 
What to believe.

The auction on ebay says the headers will work with a Terry houston style downpipe. I have a 3.5 in Th dp and was wondering if anyone has these headers installed with the same pipe?
 
Interesting 304 vs 321 Info

Just some info I thought some might be interested in reading.

Stainless Steels - Stainless 304 Properties, Fabrication and Applications, Supplier Data by Aalco

Applications
304 stainless steel is typically used in:

· Sinks and splashbacks

· Saucepans

· Cutlery and flatware

· Architectural panelling

· Sanitaryware and troughs

· Tubing

· Brewery, dairy, food and pharmaceutical production equipment

· Springs, nuts, bolts and screws




***********************************************************************

Stainless Steel - Grade 321

Stainless Steel - Grade 321

Welding
Excellent weldability by all standard fusion methods, both with and without filler metals. AS 1554.6 pre-qualifies welding of 321 and 347 with Grade 347 rods or electrodes; high silicon version of 347 is also pre-qualified for welding of 321.

Applications
Typical applications include:

· Aircraft exhaust manifolds

· Expansion joints

· Bellows

· Furnace parts

· Heating element tubing

· Heat Exchangers

· Woven or welded screens for high temperature mineral processing

· Spiral Welded tube for burner pipes and flues




****317
 
Pics of SSautochromes on one of my spare motors.The crossover pipe on the pass side needed some remodeling with a c clamp,a block of wood and a couple of beers.and the one photo shows how close they came to lining up before i shortened the crossover by 1 inch to pull it tighter.Other than that i like em.
 

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Just some info I thought some might be interested in reading.

Stainless Steels - Stainless 304 Properties, Fabrication and Applications, Supplier Data by Aalco

Applications
304 stainless steel is typically used in:

· Sinks and splashbacks

· Saucepans

· Cutlery and flatware

· Architectural panelling

· Sanitaryware and troughs

· Tubing

· Brewery, dairy, food and pharmaceutical production equipment

· Springs, nuts, bolts and screws




***********************************************************************

Stainless Steel - Grade 321

Stainless Steel - Grade 321

Welding
Excellent weldability by all standard fusion methods, both with and without filler metals. AS 1554.6 pre-qualifies welding of 321 and 347 with Grade 347 rods or electrodes; high silicon version of 347 is also pre-qualified for welding of 321.

Applications
Typical applications include:

· Aircraft exhaust manifolds

· Expansion joints

· Bellows

· Furnace parts

· Heating element tubing

· Heat Exchangers

· Woven or welded screens for high temperature mineral processing

· Spiral Welded tube for burner pipes and flues




****317

Interesting read. At first I thought the Autochrome were the ones to get since they were made with 321 but in reading closer I think the tubing is 304. So what is it? Maybe the flange plate is 321? Any way to tell?
 
MORE 304 vs 321

As far as the SSAutochrome headers.I e-mailed them on e-bay "ask seller a question" about the fact that in their ad at one place it says 304 and at two other places it says 321! My ? to them was what are the tubes made of and what are the flanges made of? And why the contradictory 304/321 in the ad?
Haven't gotten a reply yet , but it's only been a day or two.I'll post their reply when I receive it.
.
.
For those wanting more reading Info to help form your own opinion :

Burns Stainless

In short ,
Within the 300 series of stainless steels, there are four types that are suitable, available and cost effective for the racer. These are 304, 316L, 321, and 347.

321 and 347 are known as stabilized grades of stainless. These are alloyed with either titanium (321) or columbium (347), both of which have a much stronger affinity for carbon than does chromium at elevated temperatures. This eliminates carbide precipitation leaving the chromium where it belongs for corrosion protection...remember our discussion of intergranular corrosion? Both 321 and 347 are top choices for exhaust headers, especially turbocharger systems and rotary engines. Since 321 is much more available than 347, that leaves 321 as the first choice, with no sacrifice in needed qualities.

316L is an extra low carbon (ELC) grade of stainless that has only .03% carbon, making less carbon available to precipitate with the chromium. It is used extensively in marine exhausts where salt water corrosion mixed with diesel exhaust particulates and electrolysis create such a horrible environment that even other grades of stainless cower and run away!

304 is the most inexpensive and available stainless in the 300 series. It is suitable for normally-aspirated header applications, and has been successfully used by many racing teams. It does not have the high temperature fatigue resistance that 321 does, but is considerably less costly and much more available. Most 304 tubing these days has the dual designation of 304/304L.
.
.
304 stainless steel tubing combines excellent physical properties with a remarkable resistance to corrosive agents found in automotive exhaust emissions.
304 tube is the most cost-effective grade of nonmagnetic stainless steel for general applications, but some professional racing teams use the higher heat-resistant properties of aircraft grade 321 stainless steel.
We have considerable experience with stainless header fabrication and will gladly advise our valued customers.

.
.
321 stainless steel tubing is one of the most desirable materials for exhaust systems because of its excellent resistance to fatigue and cracking at elevated temperatures.
It is usually the material of choice for high temperature turbo applications, unless extreme requirements indicate the use of Inconel.
.
.
Use 347 filler rod to weld 321 to 321

Use 308 filler rod to weld 321 to 304

Use 309 filler rod to weld 321 to mild steel

Enjoy your reading.
 
Headers Issues

Hello,
Crossover Is Very Close To The Flywheel The Pass Header Has A Different Angle Then The Crossover. I Just Simply Cut A The Pipe About 3/4 Through And Brought Them Back Together And Rewelded Them Worked Out Great Think I Can Rework The Crossover By The Flywheel To Have Enough Clearnace. It Does Look Like I Will Have To Weld The Crossover At The Slip Connection To Prevent Leakage I Personally Dont Trust That Connection
 
Hello,
Crossover Is Very Close To The Flywheel The Pass Header Has A Different Angle Then The Crossover. I Just Simply Cut A The Pipe About 3/4 Through And Brought Them Back Together And Rewelded Them Worked Out Great Think I Can Rework The Crossover By The Flywheel To Have Enough Clearnace. It Does Look Like I Will Have To Weld The Crossover At The Slip Connection To Prevent Leakage I Personally Dont Trust That Connection

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You will need to cut those v-band flanges off and weld the correct ones on as well. There is NO WAY a V-Band clamp (especially the one that is shown in the pictures) is ever going to seal. The flanges are WAY too short and wont get into the small part of the clamp thet squeezes them together! Good luck, you are making progress!!
 
Point Well Taken Thanks
ALSO FLANGES THAT BOLT TO THE HEADS WILL HAVE TO BE CLEARANCED DUE TO INTEFARANCE WITH THE HEAD STUDS
 
That crossover is WAY to close to the flywheel!:eek: Just starting it up and getting them hot it's sure to hit.
 
F**k these headers. All they = is problems. I had to make a gasket for the v-band clamps so they wouldn't leak and use a half a tube of silicone on top of that. They interfeer with the head bolts so to re-torque the heads, they must come off unless you modify the header flanges prior to installation. That meens downpipe and turbo has to come back off as well. My downpipe had to have the sh** smashed out of it to fit over that flange. Last but not least, they hit my dust shield. I think they are just another headach that i dont need when working on this car. Run the stockers and an extra 1/2 lb of boost.
 
I feel your pain I agree to a point if you arent mechanically inclined and dont have a welder near by then i would definitly stay away from them . IT took me about 3 hours to moch these up so everything will fit . For the money i personally think it was a good deal $210.00 to my door step i dont mind putting the time into them .
ill have more pics tomorrow
 
i also am going to have to rework my crossover pipe , after a hard launch when the car comes down , my pass arm hits the pipe and twists the crossover into the flywheel. i hear it looks cool from the line but that is not what i am after. I still think they are a good deal if you are not afraid to make things work, i just wish i could have got them for 200 and not 300.
 
F**k these headers. All they = is problems. I had to make a gasket for the v-band clamps so they wouldn't leak and use a half a tube of silicone on top of that. They interfeer with the head bolts so to re-torque the heads, they must come off unless you modify the header flanges prior to installation. That meens downpipe and turbo has to come back off as well. My downpipe had to have the sh** smashed out of it to fit over that flange. Last but not least, they hit my dust shield. I think they are just another headach that i dont need when working on this car. Run the stockers and an extra 1/2 lb of boost.

for saving some money you had to f@#$ up you downpipe just to make them fit, like i said before you get what you pay for:eek:
 
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