You can type here any text you want

New engine Runs then dies after 5-6 seconds :( Lost

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

1987T

Looking for 10's
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
369
Ok so I got a new engine from William Avila Its all in (Has taken me months to get to this point)
Engine is in the car all wired and I go to start it for the 1st time fires then dies after a few seconds tried again same tried again same so I checked firing order its good I checked the MAF Translator settings are correct for 85MM MAF (Upgraded from old lt1 maf) Checked grounds all good so now Im lost what else should be looking at to find the issue here. I don't want to keep trying to start it over and over and damage the engine.
I have not gotten a new chip but that really shouldn't matter I would think just to start the 1st time. Same inj. turbo ext. Only thing changed was the new engine with Roller cam Ported iron heads and the 85MM MAF.
Engine came with a new Cam Sensor installed and what looks to be a new Crank Sensor all are plugged in as they should be.

Just need some help. Please and thank you in advance
 
Do you have scan master?
IAC value?
TPS?
MAF?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have one but it runs for 5-6 sec. not enough time to even push a button it :( I also used it to set the TPS to .44 still no change was at .32 before I reset it
 
Try unplugging the MAF. It should run without it. See if it will idle. It will run crappy but should start and run at idle


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok Will give that a shot I guess any other suggestions ? Really Makes no sense seeing the other engine was running fine when pulled
 
You could have an IAC / t-body set up issue. Did you perform the IAC reset procedure? I had to do the procedure when I upgraded t-body and plenum on my setup, as the IAC was having fits and would die with the out of the box Accufab t-body. After the reset procedure, my IAC numbers settled down and no more issues. Will it stay running if you crack the throttle a tad?
Just a thought.

-Patrick-
 
You could have an IAC / t-body set up issue. Did you perform the IAC reset procedure? I had to do the procedure when I upgraded t-body and plenum on my setup, as the IAC was having fits and would die with the out of the box Accufab t-body. After the reset procedure, my IAC numbers settled down and no more issues. Will it stay running if you crack the throttle a tad?
Just a thought.

-Patrick-
NO I have not done the IAC Rest never had to before, How is it done Ill try that as Unplugging the maf. did nothing same thing
 
I assume you’re using the same chip/ECM so the chip hasn’t been removed?
There is no anti theft in the chip?
If you have a tach connected verify it is reading as you turn the engine over. Here is the no start tree from vortex Buick’s.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/no_start_tree.htm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks same chip computer and Chip have not been removed from the car but they were unplugged as was the battery when we swapped the engine. No anti theft as far as I know its a Turbo Tweak chip 5.7 stock computer
Only have a factory tach
 
One question.
Does this new engine have a new t-body, or are you using the same one that was on the old engine?

-Patrick-
 
What does it have for fuel pressure gauge ?

Sounds like it is getting fuel prime them the oil pressure switch is not taking over to keep the fuel pump running.
 
What does it have for fuel pressure gauge ?

Sounds like it is getting fuel prime them the oil pressure switch is not taking over to keep the fuel pump running.
Again Im alone here so its hard to see any thing under the hood when stating it. It has a rail Mounted FP Gauge the oil pressure switch is where? I have an VDO Oil pressure gauge in the car and its over 60PSI Cranking
I did put all the sensors on the new engine and connected them all up again but Im sorry there are so many Im unsure where to look for them :( Im really starting to feel stupid
 
oil pressure switch is normally down by the oil filter.

Have had a few "new" sensors not work or last very long. Don't feel stupid we have all been where you are now.
Ill check that connection to make sure its good thanks
 
Check the Idle Air control valve as mentioned above. I had the same problem once and I chase and chase to find the problem.

I would unplug the IAC connection, then Remove the IAC body, then reconnect the electrical connection. Place the AIC on its side near the Throttle body so you can verify the pintle from the IAC is moving in and out when you turn the ignition on/off. I was able to look at it from inside the car as I had the hood raised, small window but you'll see it thru the windshield.
If its not moving, then the sensor is toast. they get stuck at times. Then R&R
 
Ok going to keep testing things tonight
Very strange all was fine when I pulled the other engine and now this :( More frustrating I think
 
I would get with him to help you as it’s his rebuild . But acouple things to triple check the coil pack and module . Make sure it’s grounded well . The fuseable links and main grounds . The cam sensor has to be dead on especially if running a tr6 I mean dead on . The crank sensor must be spaced correctly aswell . Good luck. And keep us posted
 
Back
Top