New Kirban 200 amp alternator reading 15 plus volts on scan master.

...Until a couple of days ago,I would have told you that 14.8 is the safe limit,but we4Mateo has been running a generator,with adjustable voltage, and sees 14.8 on his Scanmaster. He's done this for 40,000 miles. If his car is typical,his battery should see much higher than that. I don't know if this is true because he hasn't posted the voltage at his battery yet. I think it's likely that a better word to describe your voltage regulator is gooder. Gooder than average.

I'll check it Saturday. I'm itchin to drive it still but it gets dark wayyyy before I get off work so Saturday I work but am off at 2pm. I'm sure my volts are higher at the battery than the scanmaster. I set up my voltage based upon the scanmaster though and didn't much care about real volts, until now. But my battery has lasted 40k miles with it set at 14.5 minimum at the SM. And my car has done hundreds of passes with this setup and never a hiccup from the fuel or alky pump nor the ignition (stock for 30k miles but TR6 for the last 8k or so).

I'll get it checked and post here too.
 
I'll check it Saturday. I'm itchin to drive it still but it gets dark wayyyy before I get off work so Saturday I work but am off at 2pm. I'm sure my volts are higher at the battery than the scanmaster. I set up my voltage based upon the scanmaster though and didn't much care about real volts, until now. But my battery has lasted 40k miles with it set at 14.5 minimum at the SM. And my car has done hundreds of passes with this setup and never a hiccup from the fuel or alky pump nor the ignition (stock for 30k miles but TR6 for the last 8k or so).

I'll get it checked and post here too.
i'd like to see what you have at the top of third at wot .. my car runs all around better with the higher voltage .
 
i'd like to see what you have at the top of third at wot .. my car runs all around better with the higher voltage .

No powerlogger, sorry. I looked at my volts a couple of times on hard street pulls in 3rd though and it was around 14.7v. My car definitely likes the voltage and it sounds like the only real problem with running a hot system is the battery.
 
OK, Kirban said the Custom 200 amp alternator they sell is (that I bought) is designed to run in the 15's for optimum performance and it's totally safe as long as it's under 16.
 
OK, Kirban said the Custom 200 amp alternator they sell is (that I bought) is designed to run in the 15's for optimum performance and it's totally safe as long as it's under 16.
i think it also make's up for losses in the factory wire harness .like i stated before my car runs so much better on higher voltage .and i can see the gnx gauges at night..before i could watch the headlamps dim to the beat of the tunes .
 
thank's ..when i roll my windows up it drops to less then ten volts ..is this gravity ? i also notice when i drive faster they go up faster .. should i just use the trans brake to roll them up in the garage ?

Gravity??o_O
No, it's called old motors, and 25 yr old wiring....
Do a search. There's a goodly amt of older threads on how to cure this problem. [Using later motors.]
That much volt drop, should be a good time to check connection quality,, ohm readings across the connections, volt drops. Don't neglect the window mechanism lube, worn parts, etc.
 
Gravity??o_O
No, it's called old motors, and 25 yr old wiring....
Do a search. There's a goodly amt of older threads on how to cure this problem. [Using later motors.]
That much volt drop, should be a good time to check connection quality,, ohm readings across the connections, volt drops. Don't neglect the window mechanism lube, worn parts, etc.
ooohhh great !! something else to fix . i think it's too late chuck . i'm just gonna crush the car for scrap .. way too many problems !
 
Even with the higher voltage my gauge and interior lights still flicker with the engine idle. I really need to rewire the whole car. Shit is so cut up and spliced and what not.
 
Even with the higher voltage my gauge and interior lights still flicker with the engine idle. I really need to rewire the whole car. Shit is so cut up and spliced and what not.

We use the American Autowire systems.. The Hiway 22 would be a nice kit to use. Allows custom lengths on all the wires.
Or, there's a NEAT Canbus system that would be nice...Big bucks, tho.
http://www.isispower.com/products.html?ProductID=ISIS2BOXZ

Here's another. REALLY nice.. Again, not cheap!
http://www.racewiresolutions.com/
 
Even with the higher voltage my gauge and interior lights still flicker with the engine idle. I really need to rewire the whole car. Shit is so cut up and spliced and what not.
Does this generator look visually identical to the factory generator?
Did it flicker with the old generator?
 
Checked it today. My voltage at the battery and back of alternator is never more than .45 volts higher then what the SM is reading so I'm leaving it alone. The SM has been setup to show between 14.5 to 14.8 volts. That may be higher than recommended for a battery at times getting 15.3 volts but it's been good for 40k mile so far so I'm leaving well enough alone.
 
Checked it today. My voltage at the battery and back of alternator is never more than .45 volts higher then what the SM is reading so I'm leaving it alone. The SM has been setup to show between 14.5 to 14.8 volts. That may be higher than recommended for a battery at times getting 15.3 volts but it's been good for 40k mile so far so I'm leaving well enough alone.
If it's like the average generator,it starts out at a higher voltage and rapidly falls to a lower. I've never wanted a 200 amp generator because 120 amps is a Rock Star compared to what we had in the 70's. The only reason I would want more amperage is if I were running some really big audio amplifiers. If this generator was marketed based on its voltage output it would have caught my interest before now. How about we call it a 15 volt generator? Does this generator look identical,on the outside,to the factory generator.
 
Ttype6 said:
If it's like the average generator,it starts out at a higher voltage and rapidly falls to a lower. I've never wanted a 200 amp generator because 120 amps is a Rock Star compared to what we had in the 70's. The only reason I would want more amperage is if I were running some really big audio amplifiers. If this generator was marketed based on its voltage output it would have caught my interest before now. How about we call it a 15 volt generator? Does this generator look identical,on the outside,to the factory generator.

Nope. There are differences that make it non stock appearing. It fits in the stock location though without modification. You can raise the voltage up to 18 volts should you want to run a 16 volt battery.

I've never seen the sm drop below 14.5v even at the top of third with alky spraying hard so I assume my hotwired items never see much below 15v and I'm good with that.

The extra amps aren't need but they don't make a 120amp version. Extra amps hurt nothing though, they may provide no benefit, but no harm either. I'm happier with this setup than a volt booster. If my pump can't keep up at 15v, then I'll get a bigger pump.
 
Extra amps hurt nothing though, they may provide no benefit, but no harm either.
True. Have we determined that the generator that you have is the same one that RIFF RAFF and LEGACY_GN have. Did you purchase it from Kirban?
 
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