New to Scanmaster - 5.4 retard

[Pronto]

Whats the boost set at? 22 PSI?

He says stock chip and no boost gauge.

 

[Razor]

He says stock chip and no boost gauge.

Poster complains of knock and doesnt know boost. So my guess is 22 PSI.. enough to blow another headgasket. Especially with a heavy climing knock.

TPS wont drop boost. IAC wont drop boost. When someone gets knock.. its almost alwasy tooooo much boost or very bad gas. May even be WG solenoid, rotten WG hoses, etc.

So a 30 dollar boost guage or a 1200 dollar head gasket replacement. :redface:

 

[supervpp]

I meant to say key on and engine off.

It will show 3.8 inside the car, no mat, pedal to the floor.
Under hood and moving throttle by hand, it will go to 4.6

 

[GNRick]

Julio- is it possible to repair a bad TPS sensor? I know they don't cost very much but I was just wondering if you have ever tried it.

 

[Pronto]

When someone gets knock.. its almost alwasy tooooo much boost or very bad gas. May even be WG solenoid, rotten WG hoses, etc.

Ya, all easy checks. Since he has a replacement TPS, might at well swap it out. While there check all the vacuum lines and wg. One things for sure the hg didn't blow last time for no reason....even stock stuff is vunerable if there are issues that are not taken care of before boosting.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Sounds like a floor mat is keeping you from WOT.

Should really do a "spring cleaning". Gett it all right O2, TPS, and Cam Sensors all set right. And good gas. Did you say you can get 100 - do it, if the KR goes away, it would seem to be real, but even if it does not go away, could it be because of 30 PSI???

- good call on the vacuum lines.
- and, like Razor said, get a boost gauge.

 

[supervpp]

Sounds like a floor mat is keeping you from WOT.

Should really do a "spring cleaning". Gett it all right O2, TPS, and Cam Sensors all set right. And good gas. Did you say you can get 100 - do it, if the KR goes away, it would seem to be real, but even if it does not go away, could it be because of 30 PSI???

- good call on the vacuum lines.
- and, like Razor said, get a boost gauge.

I REALLY appreciate all the help guys.
Any brand/model of boost gauge better than another?
What is another "Must Have" gauge if I go with one of the 2 pod setups?

 

[supervpp]

I REALLY appreciate all the help guys.
Any brand/model of boost gauge better than another?
What is another "Must Have" gauge if I go with one of the 2 pod setups?

Also, just boost, or boost/vacum?

 

[Pronto]

VDO is common brand as well as Autometer. Most people mount the boost gauge in a pod that goes on the A pillar. It's common to use the console mount with a temp and oil gauge. I prefer the 30 psi boost gauge but it's up to you to decide how must boost you'll eventually run.:smile:

 

["Turbo-T"]

I REALLY appreciate all the help guys.
Any brand/model of boost gauge better than another?
What is another "Must Have" gauge if I go with one of the 2 pod setups?

I prefer Autometer gauges.

For boost I like the one that also lets you read vacuum at the other end of the gauge.

For the center pods I'd go with an oil pressure and a water temp.

On the A pillar I have my boost/vac gauge and I also have a fuel PSI gauge....to warn me to stay off the boost in case the fuel pump decides to not keep up...which can be another reason for knock retard/blown head gaskets/blown engines.

However the electric fuel PSI gauges like mine are pricey. ($195) The alternative is a hood mounted fuel PSI gauge but I'm not a fan of gauges sitting on the hood of an otherwise stealth looking car.

 

[Razor]

Also, just boost, or boost/vacum?

Anything. They all work the same, you dont need to permanently mount it.. just get it hooked up and look at your boost level. From there you can make decisions without guessing blindly.

Never guess with boost at WOT.. everyone who guesses.. loses.

The scanmaster is saving you.. my guess you have a high boost issue in the background that cuased the HG failure in the first place.

Becuase a motor is stock doesnt mean it cant overboost and blow a hole through it. :redface: Stuck wastegate puck, bad wastegate solenoid, wrong routing on wastegate hoses, rotten hoses, etc etc etc.

 

[supervpp]

Anything. They all work the same, you dont need to permanently mount it.. just get it hooked up and look at your boost level. From there you can make decisions without guessing blindly.

Never guess with boost at WOT.. everyone who guesses.. loses.

The scanmaster is saving you.. my guess you have a high boost issue in the background that cuased the HG failure in the first place.

Becuase a motor is stock doesnt mean it cant overboost and blow a hole through it. :redface: Stuck wastegate puck, bad wastegate solenoid, wrong routing on wastegate hoses, rotten hoses, etc etc etc.

THANKS Razor.
I removed the heat sheild on the turbo and the wastegate is difficult to move manually.
Is that normal?
The vacum lines look good, but maybe there is a routing issue. I will need to find a map and follow them all.

 

[Razor]

THANKS Razor.
I removed the heat sheild on the turbo and the wastegate is difficult to move manually.
Is that normal?
The vacum lines look good, but maybe there is a routing issue. I will need to find a map and follow them all.

No problem. You need to disconnect the arm from the puck by removing the clip and then make sure it moves freely. If the wastegate actuator is on the swing arm, it will be hard to move.

Again.. look at boost to tell "IF" there is a problem. Stock the car should be 13-15 PSI. At this level you shouldnt have knock. If the needle goes way higher.. ping ping ping.. boom.

 

[Pronto]

Vacuum line routing:

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