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New to Scanmaster - 5.4 retard

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It's all stock.
Don't know the fuel pressure or boost setting.

Trying to find the best way to tune the stock car. The headgasket and rear main were replaced last year. The shop was not familiar with GNs as far as the tuning. That's what I'm trying to do now.
 
Post up where you are located and maybe there will be someone close by who can give you a hand. It’s very common for a fuel sock to collapse or a fuel pump that is not hot wired cannot produce enough pressure. You could purchase a fuel pressure gage and a boost gage ($100 for both) and install them yourself for probably cheaper than a shop is going to verify either for you.
 
Depends on the chip as to when it goes into PE. Stock chip may be 3.5 but the TPS if reads .34 is way wrong. And wrong is wrong.

When you start the car it almost always reads .02 higher. Once the car hits .48 the computer thinks your foot is on the pedal aka off-idle.

Kind of off topic, but.... Sheesh..... :frown: TPS vs. PE..... This must be the MOST misunderstood concept in the turbobuick world. Truth is.... PE is _WAY_ more dependent on LV8 than TPS. It's right there buried in the code if one has the desire to really look. Yes, there is a threshold of TPS that will force PE, but in real world driving, it's the LV8 that causes the transition to PE.... I just logged several 'driving around' data sets (Direct Scan) on my car yesterday. Looking at them now, my car (with 12 year old Thrasher chip) transitions to PE at LV8 = 160. Two different 'light/medium' acceleration logs show PE coming in at: TPS = 1.56 (1.74), LV8 = 164 (161), MAF = 73 (65).

It just bothers me to see this TPS vs. PE MYTH perpetuated eternally....

On a lighter note.... Razor is correct that wrong is wrong, and also regarding the TPS reading .02 higher once the car is started.... I always set mine at 0.40 so that when it's running it's at 0.42... which is 'perfect'.... :)
 
I would say yes to this. Because it's only a matter of time before you start wanting to up the boost. :biggrin: Just ask anyone....


If I wanted to up the boost i would have bought a modified GN instead of looking for a BONE STOCK GN. I LIKE STOCK!!!!!!!!! NOT as fast as some,BUT more dependable!!!!
I APPRECIATE all the replies!!!! THANKS!!!!
 
If I wanted to up the boost i would have bought a modified GN instead of looking for a BONE STOCK GN. I LIKE STOCK!!!!!!!!! NOT as fast as some,BUT more dependable!!!!
I APPRECIATE all the replies!!!! THANKS!!!!


I like stock too, but you can up the boost and keep it stock.:wink:
 
I was reading and just curious does all this stuff about setting the TPS apply to a car with fast xfi?
 
If I wanted to up the boost i would have bought a modified GN instead of looking for a BONE STOCK GN. I LIKE STOCK!!!!!!!!! NOT as fast as some,BUT more dependable!!!!
I APPRECIATE all the replies!!!! THANKS!!!!

Even bone stock I would have an aftermarket boost gauge. A number of issues could happen and cause overboost and the silly stock light thingie would be totally useless. You can cause plenty of damage on a "bone stock" car with unknownly overboosting and having knock.
 
Kind of off topic, but.... Sheesh..... :frown: TPS vs. PE..... This must be the MOST misunderstood concept in the turbobuick world. Truth is.... PE is _WAY_ more dependent on LV8 than TPS. It's right there buried in the code if one has the desire to really look. Yes, there is a threshold of TPS that will force PE, but in real world driving, it's the LV8 that causes the transition to PE.... I just logged several 'driving around' data sets (Direct Scan) on my car yesterday. Looking at them now, my car (with 12 year old Thrasher chip) transitions to PE at LV8 = 160. Two different 'light/medium' acceleration logs show PE coming in at: TPS = 1.56 (1.74), LV8 = 164 (161), MAF = 73 (65).

It just bothers me to see this TPS vs. PE MYTH perpetuated eternally....

On a lighter note.... Razor is correct that wrong is wrong, and also regarding the TPS reading .02 higher once the car is started.... I always set mine at 0.40 so that when it's running it's at 0.42... which is 'perfect'.... :)

Thanks for some good info!

I don't believe anybody was attempting to confuse the PE thing as much as solve a problem that could have been something simple. At first it sounded like the TPS was .38 at WOT.

Just like the race fuel comments. Just making a change and noting the effect. I do not believe anybody was suggesting that a stock low boost GN should be using 100 octane all the time - just seeing if it really is real knock in the first place.
 
Blew a head gasket and rear main last year and I don't want a repeat!

ALL stock car.
ALL GASKETS replaced last year.
1987 GN, 14,000 original miles.

Scanmaster:
Under HARD acceleration:

Retard under boost
2.3, 3.8, 6.1

L8
227

tPS
1.9


IDLE:

AF 06
L8 40-43
bAt 13.9
Int 129
bL 136
CLt 170
AtS 46
tPS .36
IAC 19
cc 04-245


3/6/2009.

Adjusted the TPS.
It is now at .42 key off
.44 at idle

The retard still is high under boost.

5.9 @ 824 mvolts

I even hit 10 and backed of IMMEDIATELY!!!

May be I don't fully understand, but what is causing the knock/retard?

Do I have a bad sensor, setting, etc?

Is it normal if I'm on the pedal hard?

Sorry still new to this game! The car belonged to my brother before me, and still has only 14,000 miles. The car used to bark the tires in 1,2,3 with little effort. Glad I have the Scanmaster now so I won't risk the head gasket or rear main again.
What can I try now?
 
You NEED a new tps sensor. TPS volts should be increasing to 4.XXX under hard acceleration! Yours has a dead spot, as previously indicated, and you need to buy a new one! Just checking it at key off isn't the same as under load. I know, it happened to me;)
 
How old is your fuel? Has it been sitting for a while? You mention a blown head gasket last year. Did you drive it since and use up last year's fuel? You mentioned 92 octane with possibly in parenthesis's. If that fuel is last years just run it down and add fresh 93 if you can get it. You can't run boost without getting sever knock if your octane is low. From there work on that TPS and IAC (one effects the other).
 
You NEED a new tps sensor. TPS volts should be increasing to 4.XXX under hard acceleration! Yours has a dead spot, as previously indicated, and you need to buy a new one! Just checking it at key off isn't the same as under load. I know, it happened to me;)

Is it as simple as removing the 2 screws and replacing/setting???
 
Yes. Very slight movements are needed to adjust it. It can be frustrating to get it just right.
 
You NEED a new tps sensor. TPS volts should be increasing to 4.XXX under hard acceleration! Yours has a dead spot, as previously indicated, and you need to buy a new one! Just checking it at key off isn't the same as under load. I know, it happened to me;)

I meant to say key on and engine off.
 
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