New to the 3.8 and was having questions about a build up. . .

[Magnus357]

I'm planning to build up a Turbo 3.8 in the near future. The engine is eventually going to go into a 3rd gen RX-7.

I think I'm going to try to buy a whole turbo 3.8 engine used at this time to save money. Either newly rebuilt or needs to be rebuilt. If it needs to be rebuilt or even for the rebuilt engine what do I need to look at? Steel mains? ARP studs and rod bolts? What compression ratio should I look for and should the pistons be forged?

I'm planning on running a TE44 turbo, with a 61mm throttle body, 50lbs injectors, Racetronix fuel pump, and a custom chip. What fuel regulator should I use?

Not totally sure yet, but I think I may go with worked heads and cam.

I'd get a simple set of heads with the 1.77 intake polished chambers and harder springs. I'd want about a 207/207 .444 cam on what LSA though?

I'd obviously be using all the stock parts for the ones I'm not buying new.

What all would I want to upgrade esle on the engine? Intake manifold, exhaust headers, down pipe? I'm new to turbos and I'm still learning about all of this.

Also what size intercooler would I need to run keeping in mind the RX-7 has EASY front mount options?

When running a alcohol injection systems on this car with a good tune in it what do you think 93 octane power levels could be?

Either way, when I get it into a 2700 RX-7 it's going to move!

Thanks for all you help, I know I ask a lot

- Matt

 

[turboman38]

Your build-up depends on how fast you want to go? So how fast do you want to go?

I'd say with the 44 and the fuel system, heads and I assume custom down pipe, in 2700 lb car you should be in the 10s. There are alot of guys in the 11s with the 44 but the RX7 being so light should really help you. I was always told you gain a tenth of a second in the quarter mile for every 100 lbs you drop from the car. Most TR are 3500 - 3700 lbs and can run mid to high 11s conservatively with a 44 and the rest of the parts to match so putting a 2700 lb car in the 10s shouldn't be a problem.

Anybody agree with my logic?

 

[J Banning]

I think turboman38 is pretty much on the money with what he said.

- How fast do you want to go?
- How much money do you want to spend? Speed co$ts

If it was me, I'd go with any billet regulator that our vendors sell (www.gnttype.org/vendors). If you're cash limited, I'd wait on the throttle body till after you got it together. You can go plenty fast with a stock TB.

> What all would I want to upgrade esle on the engine? Intake manifold, exhaust headers, down pipe?
Again, depends on how fast you want to go & the money you are willing to spend. You can go into the 10's easy in our cars with a stock intake & headers. However, a downpipe is pretty much a given for us, but you may have to have something custom made for your application. You'll probably have to have some sort of intercooler fabrication done as well (pipes and/or the core & end tanks).

Hope this helps,
-Banning.

 

[J Banning]

turboman38: Nice car

 

[Magnus357]

I've been looking at more budget options lately:

- TDW Forged Pistons (what's the cost of these new, and what compression ratio?)

- I still want to do steel mains with ARP studs and rod bolts - Who sells the steel main caps and ARP studs from?

- How much is it to polish and refresh a set of stock rods?

- For the heads, how much would it cost to just put new guides, seals, 1.77 intake valves, 3-angle vavle job, new valve springs, and polish the chambers? I don't need a race port just a refreshed ones set up for the cam I want to run.

- I'm still pretty sure on the 207/207 cam, but I've heard of problems with some cams. Who makes the best quality cam? Also can the stock lifters, rockers, and pushrods be used or should I get new ones?

- I'm planning on rigging up the Ford Powerstrock IC to run as a front mount in the RX7, and I know all the tubing will have to be custom bent. Going to find a guy with a mandrel bender to help me out. Gonna be cheap, is alumnized steel tubing good enough? Or should I really step up to stainless for those?

Would it be possible to build a motor like this for ~4.5k? And should I bother with getting a whole motor first and taking it down or just buy all the parts seperately since I'm replacing so much.

Thanks again,

- Matt

 

[Magnus357]

up!

^

 

[Magnus357]

Oh, I forgot to ask. . .what do yall think of ArizonaGN's compete motors? It looks like a pretty good deal to me. What would I need to make that turn key?

1. Turbo and all piping
2. Exhaust manifolds and turbo elbow
3. intake manifold, fuel rails, injector harness, regulator, pleninum and TB
4. The A/C compressor and alternator
5. Other pulleys or what not. . .
6. Waterpump

What am I forgeting? And what are the prices on those parts used and which ones should/could be bought that way?

Thanks again,

- Matt

 

[Magnus357]

up!

One more try? ^

 

[1badTTA]

Well the cheapest way I see this being done is to buy a used engine and rebuild it to mostly stock specs, adding forged TRW pistons ($249) and all ARP bolts and possibly even steal mains will make these engines good for about 600HP. Spend your money on the things that you will need for the conversion such as Downpipe, Intercooler (frontmount), exhaust, and transmission (what can the stock rear end handle). Once you get it all together and tuned right then worry about doing more mods.