What's up everyone? Just purchased my first stock 87 GN and have a ? for you guys. What would be my first step towards making my GN a bit faster. Not looking for anything crazy. Only drive on weekends but would like to see a few cars in my rear view mirror if you guys know what I mean. Your advice would be appreciated. Here to learn!! Thanks
New to Turbobuicks
- Thread starter 87_WE2
- Start date
BlackMetal
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2005
Welcome and congrats on the car.
Start with this guide, freshen the car up:
The Grand National / T-Type / Turbo Regal Buick Spring Cleaning Guide
Gnttype.org is an amazing site, do lots of reading there.
Common first mods are:
-New computer chip from turbotweak.com . The timing programmed into the stock chip is too aggressive for today's blend of gasoline, and you can end up with knock/detonation under boost. Turbotweak chips are known to improve idle and made the car stronger overall.
-Fuel system upgrades. The factory fuel system can barely keep up as-is. If you want to go faster, you need more fuel. Get a fuel pump and heavy duty hotwire harness from racetronix.com. Get an adjustable regulator so you can set your fuel pressure. If you have the skill for a bit more involving work, change out the injectors too.
-Intake/exhaust. Common mods for any car. Easy horsepower. Cold air intake from buickgn.com.
There are a handfull of good Buick vendor's to buy parts from but let me suggest my favorite, fullthrottlespeed.com. Awesome service.
In the future, use the Search button up top to see if topics have already been discussed before. It makes the forum more enjoyable if the same topics aren't being posted every 2 days.
Start with this guide, freshen the car up:
The Grand National / T-Type / Turbo Regal Buick Spring Cleaning Guide
Gnttype.org is an amazing site, do lots of reading there.
Common first mods are:
-New computer chip from turbotweak.com . The timing programmed into the stock chip is too aggressive for today's blend of gasoline, and you can end up with knock/detonation under boost. Turbotweak chips are known to improve idle and made the car stronger overall.
-Fuel system upgrades. The factory fuel system can barely keep up as-is. If you want to go faster, you need more fuel. Get a fuel pump and heavy duty hotwire harness from racetronix.com. Get an adjustable regulator so you can set your fuel pressure. If you have the skill for a bit more involving work, change out the injectors too.
-Intake/exhaust. Common mods for any car. Easy horsepower. Cold air intake from buickgn.com.
There are a handfull of good Buick vendor's to buy parts from but let me suggest my favorite, fullthrottlespeed.com. Awesome service.
In the future, use the Search button up top to see if topics have already been discussed before. It makes the forum more enjoyable if the same topics aren't being posted every 2 days.
+1 on that.
Don't forget a scanmaster and a better boost gauge so you can watch for knock and know what your running for boost more accurately.
detonation bad, run best fuel you can afford or find if your gonna step on it once upgrades are in
How many miles on the engine, any mods done at all?
HTH:biggrin:
Don't forget a scanmaster and a better boost gauge so you can watch for knock and know what your running for boost more accurately.
detonation bad, run best fuel you can afford or find if your gonna step on it once upgrades are in
How many miles on the engine, any mods done at all?
HTH:biggrin:
BlackMetal
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2005
Yup it's not a huge job, just makes sense to start with fluids/filters/plugs to make sure you are starting with a good base to work off of. Don't do mods if it isn't running right in the first place.
If you want to start saving for your first big mod... check out...
WWW.ALKYCONTROL.COM
Methanol Injection.
BlkOnBlkAF
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2008
Hello
Hello everyone. I'm new to the site but hope to gain some valuable information from some experienced GN enthusiasts.
Hello everyone. I'm new to the site but hope to gain some valuable information from some experienced GN enthusiasts.
In that case, I'd do the spring cleaning as outlined and:
(1) Change out the fuel pump to a Walbro 340M or equivalent sold by Full Throttle or Cottons Performance. 4500 miles or not, it needs fuel plus the old fuel sock is likely shot.
(2) Hot-wire kit sold by the same vendors. Plug N Play, very factory looking; a must have with the bigger pump noted in (#1).
(3) Adjustable fuel regulator of your choice; you will need a hand held fuel pressure gauge to set it at 43 psi with the vacuum line removed.
(4) Change out the fuel filter on the driver's side frame rail by the rear tire-- a must!!
(5) Change the plugs to AC Delco R43TS spark plugs, gap at 0.035"; these are one range colder.
(6) Ohm the coil pack; it's best to do this after the coil pack is warm.
(7) Set the TPS sensor at 0.42 to 0.48 volts at idle (throttle closed) and 4.60 to 4.72 volts at WOT. Be sure to PULL THE FRONT FLOOR MAT when you do this, otherwise the thickness of the floormat will prevent you from mashing the accelerator all the way to set the WOT setting accurately. I find it amazing how many people don't think of this!!
87_WE2: If the car is that pristine you will want to replace the non-adustable wastegate actuator with an adjustable actuator which are also available from the vendors previously mentioned.
T-TYPE 86: On your vehicle I would be inclined to pull the valve covers to (a) make sure all the valvetrain is moving correctly (i.e., no flat cam lobes) and (b) pull off a valvespring or two and check its seat pressure. Weak valvesprings won't allow the car to rev; a good source of higher performance replacements is Bean's Crankshaft in El Cajon, CA, Phone (619) 449-1736; Contact name: Jesse; the part number is 160-1144; it was about $40 shipped the last time I bought a set.
Your low mile car probably has original parts on it that are no longer made. DO NOT THROW THEM AWAY! I am referring to the spark plug wires (each has a number,, 1 through 6) and the rubber floor mats that say GM on them. If the tires are original, replace them with new ones but do not throw them away. They also are no longer made. Collectors will kill for these things. The metal trim on the wheel wells and the doors is no longer made either. Same goes for the headlight bezels and the grill. I hope I haven't scared you into not driving it. If the paint is original and is still in good shape, I would not get the car repainted. But that's just me. I would rather see original paint with some checking on the hood than an entire repaint. Original paint would indicate the car has spent its life indoors. The car is only original once. When I bought my 25k miles GN, I changed the coolant and the heater core gave up the ghost in about 200 miles. This was unavoidable. You might also do a search on ZDDP and decide if you should add it to your oil. Oil has changed since 1987. One last thing... as you know, these cars (especially low mile ones) are going up in value. After market add ons like turbos, intercoolers, etc. usually detract from the value as buyers assume the car was driven hard with these parts. Have fun!
TR Custom Parts
Mark Hueffman - Owner
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Aaaaah, a clean canvas. Hard to resist going faster. Welcome.
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
Get the scanmaster right away and then do everything Morgan aka drippan said to do. Once it's all done, record your scan master numbers and start checking that eveything is within spec. Alky is a must but you can do that AFTER the car is running at 100%.
highpsiguy
NYC wrench turner
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2008
Congrats on your new car
jhanson1750
just a 10th quicker
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
Welcome!!!
+1 for the scanmaster.....you will be amazed at how much you can monitor with this little device. Price might be a little discouraging but def. worth it!!
also consider a 160 degree thermostat and a RJC powerplate....two little low cost mods that will help you out later on.
also consider a 160 degree thermostat and a RJC powerplate....two little low cost mods that will help you out later on.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
I threw A LOT of orginal parts away. Wish I woulda kept them all for someone that coulda needed them. I got pissed when I found out my original block was cracked so chucked everything that could be bought new/aftermarket. At least I don't have to worry about blowin a hose when its 100F in august
Also educate yourself on the powermaster brake system. The accumulator on my car (black ball on powermaster unit) went bad from sitting for years. Kirban sells a replacement for $160 I think, or you can buy an entire new unit from AutoZone with a lifetime warranty for around $500. Another problem area is the MAF sensor. If (when) yours fails, you can use the one from the LT-1 motor with a "translator", sold by Full throttle. Check out their website for details.
