new tranny break in.

[denn454]

i did a search on this, went back to 2001 and didn't find anything. maybe i'm searching with the wrong words or something...

anyways, i just spend a little over $1k on a new tranny (that WAS going to be for new heads) just got it in tonght, took it around the block real easy, everything works good, 10 vane pump and a pts shift kit makes it shift pretty hard even at light throttle.

whats the best advise for a good break in? i'm thinking 50 or so miles going easy on the shifts. what about changing the fulid after i break it in? $20 worth of new fluid is far cheaper than a premature rebuild. again. the guy that did my tranny said there isn't any real reason to change fluid, but he mainly does average street driven cars. and a few all out race cars that get a tranny overhaul every coulple of races.

also what kind of fluid? i was going to spend the money and get the vp stuff, but the tranny guy told me to use the napa stuff. if he knew more about our cars i'd completely trust him, but he really had no idea about our cars. need more oppinions by people who have experience with this stuff.

 

[pacecarta]

shouldnt need a breakin but it wouldnt be a bad idea to gradually bring it up to full wot conditions looking for flair up during shifts or slippage at the top end keeping an eye on your tach (scanmaster or aftermarket not the inacurate dash tach) to prevent over revving the engine and causing damage , if anything feels out of sorts call your tranny guy and let him know before you burn something up , after your sure it isnt slipping and shifting like it should drive it like you would normally

 

[wayner]

I purchased and installed a TCI Streetfighter 200 4R this past spring. The info that came with the tranny from TCI said to change the fluid and filter after 500 miles due to break in of the clutchs and bands. So I did. I have close to 10K miles on that tranny now, and its worked flawlessly since installed, except for the hi 3 -4 shift which takes place at 51 mph. I blamed my 3.31 rear gears for that!

 

[WE4]

No break in required..In fact..

The first few hard shifts it makes will be the best. No need for break in. Just run on stands to run and circulate fluid then have at it. Get in, shut up, and hold on!!!


Bruce
WE4
www.PTSXTREME.com

 

[denn454]

good deal.

another queswtion for ya bruce.
i'm using your rebuild kit and shift kit. i also went up to a 10 vane pump, my stock one was BADLY worn. anyways, just normally driving it shifts hard, i set the tv cable to get it to shift at the right rpm, just a tad higher than stock, and its really working great. once i floor it i have no problems till it shifts, then its either really soft or i get a little flare between 1st and 2nd. i let it do that twice and haven't let it shift hard since, or even let it have any real power. i'm not making tons of power by any means, the way i drive it on the street it would probably only run a low 14 (good on gas that way) so i don't think its too much power.

i'm going to take it back to the guy i had put it together for me but i wanted some thoughts from you first.

 

[WE4]

Well.....

Either you have a 1-2 accumulator problem or a servo pin blown through the band apply anchor or you stretched the band anchor pin hole out. Also the band could be the whole issue. Please tell me it is NOT a kevlar band.
Anyway, there are some possibilities.

Bruce
WE4
PTS XTREME

 

[denn454]

i took it out again to really see what was going on with it. the shift flare i was talking about is actually 2-3, i origionally thought it was the 1-2 because its the first shift i felt. right now the 1-2 is so light i can only hear it.

its your raybestos band the $40 addition to your rebuild kit, i don't think thats kevlar.
i also ordered some pin from you, mark said its a pretty important one to replace so i bought it. maybe thats the servo pin your talking about, i don't know.

what do you think is going to have to be done to fix it? an external adjustment(i hope)? if the whole thing has to come out again i don't think i'll be able to afford to put it back together. its already cost me double what i expected to pay.

 

[77 cruiser]

First I'd check the TV adj. again & if no better put a press. guage on it.

Jim

 

[WE4]

My what?

Originally posted by denn454
i took it out again to really see what was going on with it. the shift flare i was talking about is actually 2-3, i origionally thought it was the 1-2 because its the first shift i felt. right now the 1-2 is so light i can only hear it.

its your raybestos band the $40 addition to your rebuild kit, i don't think thats kevlar.
i also ordered some pin from you, mark said its a pretty important one to replace so i bought it. maybe thats the servo pin your talking about, i don't know.

what do you think is going to have to be done to fix it? an external adjustment(i hope)? if the whole thing has to come out again i don't think i'll be able to afford to put it back together. its already cost me double what i expected to pay.

I do not sell any Raybestos bands. So what exactly did you purchase? And from me you say? I would like to follow up on this somemore. It sure sounds like something else is array somewhere. We need to get to the problem. First you say it is 1-2 , now its 2-3? Which is it? Alot of difference in which problem we are addressing. If the 2-3 is flairing then we look at other things. Also, yes, pressure sure be taken and recorded. Once we have some good info we can address the problem.

Bruce
WE4
PTS XTREME

 

[denn454]

ok, i was going off the top of my head untill now. i have the receipt infront of me, and i've had more time to play with it and i can tell you exactly what it is doing.

1 delexe complete rebuild kit
1 alto wide red band
1 pts band anchor kit
1 pts valve body kit
1 tcc lock up kit
thats receipt number 005731 if you have any more questions.

thats what i got from you, heres the parts i got from the tranny guy.
1 10 vane 4l60-e pump
1 vane kit
1 od bushing kit
1 low sprag
1 od sprag
1 od planetary.

normal light driving, shifts into every gear are firm and feel great, no signs of slipping, works prefectly.

with heavy throttle, 1-2 shift is extremely light. i can't even feel it, i can only hear it to know it happend. 2-3 has the flare, after it flares it shifts very similar to stock, just a little "hit" fairly soft but the shift its self feels right. i haven't had enough room/ right traffic to get it to shift into od.

how do i go about checking the pressure? the only gauge i have that might even work would be my fuel press. gauge. will it hurt that? what kind of pressures should i be looking for here?

Thanks for the help!

 

[77 cruiser]

You need a 0 to 300 psi guage & hose, goes in the 1/8 npt hole with the plug in, by the manual linkage.
You should have about 200 + psi @ max TV.
A trans shop or dealer might be able to loan you a test guage too.

Jim

 

[WE4]

Ck this out..

http://www.ptsxtreme.com/mcartfree/product.asp?intProdID=122


That is what you need. You may be able to piece one together locally. If you so wish, we could send one out Monday. Either way, this will help.

I would also ask the builder EXACTLY how he set the band and what servo set up was used.
Just for later on for info.


Bruce
WE4
PTS XTREME

 

[denn454]

ok, i'll see if he has a gauge to save me the money. i might even be able to do a harbor freight one, it only has to work once right?

anyways i talked to him a little bit about it, he semes to think its in the cable. i played around with the cable for nearly an hour and found its happy spot. it semes to work pretty good, other than the fact that it won't go into od untill i'm at 60 mph. i'm still thinking it mght be more than just the cable.

i'll try to get it straightend out monday.

thanks again!