New Weber Built Long Block Leaks Oil
- Thread starter wmerrell
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Don't mean to be a downer but verify or have someone verify it is the oil pan gasket leaking and not the rear main, timing cover, etc. If you have a more serious leak you have a more difficult (expensive) repair. A reasonable request to the builder will be handled better than an upset customer. If a local shop puts your issue on a work order with pictures it may help get you a little labor cost back. On the plus side it is not a big deal to redo the pan, especially on a lift.
BEATAV8
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seems like a fairly minor issue in the grand scheme of things....
novaderrik
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it's a Buick V6.. they all do that.
Do you have a girdle installed on your motor?!!!???If so than check it very closely .I just seen a weber motor that ran great but leaked oil bad from the girdle being installed wrong. This motor ended up spinning a rod bearing .But if you don't have a girdle than its a easy fix.Good luck with your motor..
m233roller
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it's a Buick V6.. they all do that.
No they don't if they are installed right with a good cork gasket.
No they don't if they are installed right with a good cork gasket.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Throw some oil dye in it and verify where the leak is coming from. Easy to do. There may be more places it's coming from.
Bad enough that the tuner will not dyno the car until it is fixed.
Bad oil pan gasket. Oil in dripping on crossover pipe.
Tuner is worried about car catching fire.
BEATAV8
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Cometic makes an excellent oil pan gasket. I highly recommend it.
x2 rubber ones are crap and always leak. i put a cork one on from kirban and no more leaks
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if its cork cant it requires a recheck and torque after a week or so and occassional checks thereafter
torque is 8.5 ftlbs and with a 1/2" universal socket and a 10mm universal socket it takes less time to retorque than you took to type your opening post ,
bolts put in dry can also back out ,
if you have a girdle ive found it loosens up even worse with the nuts used on girdles . not uncommon to see their (weber) motors with loose or missing nuts on girdles . you need to apply rtv / permatex #2/ low hold loctite (not loctite RED as nuts will need occassional retorque for gasket) to threads on pan studs.. or swap them for nylon locknuts
the retorque on cork also applies to the valve cover gaskets
also check the front cover bolts as they should be at 15ftlbs (wouldnt surprise me if they are loose and a leak there can run back to the rear )
torque is 8.5 ftlbs and with a 1/2" universal socket and a 10mm universal socket it takes less time to retorque than you took to type your opening post ,
bolts put in dry can also back out ,
if you have a girdle ive found it loosens up even worse with the nuts used on girdles . not uncommon to see their (weber) motors with loose or missing nuts on girdles . you need to apply rtv / permatex #2/ low hold loctite (not loctite RED as nuts will need occassional retorque for gasket) to threads on pan studs.. or swap them for nylon locknuts
the retorque on cork also applies to the valve cover gaskets
also check the front cover bolts as they should be at 15ftlbs (wouldnt surprise me if they are loose and a leak there can run back to the rear )
The bolts have been retorqued.
It is a girtle engine.
The leak is between the girtle and oil pan.
Gasket is not cork.
Weber acknowledged they have experienced this problem with other engines.
That is why they are sending out a different type of gasket.
It will be cork this time.
How long does it take to change the oil pan gasket on an installed girtled engine using a lift?
Big Turbo Scott
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Are you saying that the girdle influenced the main cap to bleed oil off to the rod journal?
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provided its not all boogered with sealer its not too bad since you shouldnt need to drop the pan completely just enough to get the old out and the new in, on a lift you can also pull the motor mount bolts and raise the motor (with jack poles) for additional clearance
when you drop pan and gasket the studs have small washers covering the nuts under them , those washers are there for shim to make the girdle surface as flat as possible and should have been installed with sealer filling the cavity and around the washer , if not they need to be cleaned and filled , then install gasket and pan and then apply sealer to threads to keep bolts from freely spinning and falling off if they loosen
ek02
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If you see oil dripping off any one particular stud, it may be the stud that is leaking oil due to sealer on the girdle not going completely around the stud area between the girdle and the block. I had that problem on a front cover stud and then later at the rear main cap area. Just a slight drip from the stud. I took the stud out, cleaned the threads with brake cleaner, and squirted "The Right Stuff" into the hole and then reistalled the studs. Problem solved. RJC recommends the thick cork gasket that they, or TA Performance sells, and "The Right Stuff on both sides of the gasket. I wanted my pan to come off easily, so I used brush on High Tack sealer. No leaks at all now.
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