Newb from colorado

jene said:
No I trust you.. But like i said.. I would much rather have a project car/ builder. I love cars and love to work on them!I would be more proud of a car I personally built then one that was already finshed and done by someone else.

I don't want to get into a debate on buying already done vs. a project car. I know I want a project car. I am hear to read up and learn. And hopefully get my dumb questions answered...:wink:
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hope you have a nice savings account ready, 10's are cheap (around 6 to 7K dollars) not including trans, rear end upgrades.. going fast will take a hell of a lot more...

my project car cost me over 12 years, 40K.. and i'm not even in the low 9's at sea level...
 
jene said:
No I trust you.. But like i said.. I would much rather have a project car/ builder. I love cars and love to work on them!I would be more proud of a car I personally built then one that was already finshed and done by someone else.

I don't want to get into a debate on buying already done vs. a project car. I know I want a project car. I am hear to read up and learn. And hopefully get my dumb questions answered...:wink:

And Im not going to get in a NOS debate... I wont use NOS. Especially for a 13 second bracket car. I have seen so many NOS cars that are not consistent. I have also seen cars blow their engine on NOS as well as other things... I would much rather not have NOS and not deal with those issues. then have NOS and have something come up or go wrong during a run or between rounds...

Any non boosted car can run differently too thru the day due to weather and such.. the DA and humidity..ect.
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in your neck of the woods (Alt wise), NOS is the best way to go fast.. the DA is going to kill you with a turbo car.. stay with a N/A motor car and big displacement, it's a lot cheaper to build and go faster then a GN..
 
nordy racer said:
hope you have a nice savings account ready, 10's are cheap (around 6 to 7K dollars) not including trans, rear end upgrades.. going fast will take a hell of a lot more...

my project car cost me over 12 years, 40K.. and i'm not even in the low 9's...
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Where did I say I wanted to run 10's for this project??? I think I keep saying 13's...

And if I wanted it in the 10's or better... and takes me 12 years and 40 thousand to do it then so be it.

NOS Is the easiest and cheapest (in some respect) way to go fast.. But i wont touch NOS.

While I love GN"S and T Types.. I agree with your last statement. Unless I happen to come by a turbo one for a good deal... I am kinda leaning towards getting what ever I find and then going from there.. if it is s turbo then I will deal with that.. if it a non turbo then a bb or sb will be the route I got..
 
jene said:
Where did I say I wanted to run 10's for this project??? I think I keep saying 13's...

And if I wanted it in the 10's or better... and takes me 12 years and 40 thousand to do it then so be it.

NOS Is the easiest and cheapest (in some respect) way to go fast.. But i wont touch NOS.
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well go luck in what ever way you go... 13' with your DA, will cost you around 5 to 7K.. turbo, injectors, chip, trans (rebuild), convertor, intercooler, downpipe and cat back and thats off the top of my head.. O and head gaskets.. you will have to run more boost to get those numbers due to the DA up there..
stay away from that 83 turbo.. get a 86 or 87.. that will run you (if you can find one in good shape due to the salt and snow) around 8 to 10K (not in show car form)..
 
nordy racer said:
well go luck in what ever way you go... 13' with your DA, will cost you around 5 to 7K.. turbo, injectors, chip, trans (rebuild), convertor, intercooler, downpipe and cat back and thats off the top of my head.. O and head gaskets.. you will have to run more boost to get those numbers due to the DA up there..
stay away from that 83 turbo.. get a 86 or 87.. that will run you (if you can find one in good shape due to the salt and snow) around 8 to 10K (not in show car form)..
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Ok.. good info to know. although I am strongly leaning towards non turbo. 5 to 10k is a good start for me eithor way I go... But this is all good info for me to keep in mind over the next few days or weeks i am lurking for a regal or cutlass for sure!! Thanks!!


I am going to keep reading up and stuff..


one other note.. just incase.. I dont have emissions...
 
jene said:
one other note.. just incase.. I dont have emissions...
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On that note...Whatever you build, rip off every piece of emission crap it comes with that alone should get you in the 13's LOL or at least in CA it will. LOL :D :D
 
edit.. those imapals i talked about above wew 66 and 67's...sorry.:wink:
 
Reply

Question! don't mean to get off topic but Is there any truth that the sheep in Colorado are nervous ?
 
That car is a 81-83 carbureted turbo Regal, you can't do much with that drive train, motor, trans or the 7.5" 10 bolt rearend. You will be better off with a V8 and a shot of NOS. Turbo Buicks = MONEY PITS :wink:

Also, when you own a Turbo Buick for too long, you kind of look at animals in a different way. You know what I mean boys :eek: :biggrin:

jene said:
I have seen a few consistent regal bracket cars. I think anything can be made consistent. I have seen alot of various consistent cars. New, old, classic... I have a friend who has an 84 monte carlo runs a consistent 10.06 all day long. A friends 71 Impala runs 13.9's all day and his other impala runs 11.5's all day or with in a tenth or 2...if that. IM pretty sure you can make anything consistent if built right. :)

On another note.. here is one I was looking at... just to give you an idea of where I wanted to start.

This one was 900 bucks.. ran fine.. needed alittle tlc, tune up and such. Although I would have rebuilt everything and the tune up was not an issue with me.. these are the cars I am finding here for a grand or less..

Clipboard015.jpg



I know it is going to take money.. thats not the issue.
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psiedv6 said:
That car is a 81-83 carbureted turbo Regal, you can't do much with that drive train, motor, trans or the 7.5" 10 bolt rearend. You will be better off with a V8 and a shot of NOS. Turbo Buicks = MONEY PITS :wink:

Also, when you own a Turbo Buick for too long, you kind of look at animals in a different way. You know what I mean boys :eek: :biggrin:
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Sweet.. That is what a friend of mine told me earlier today. What tranny did the v8/307 regals have? My 84 had a th350 or something in it.. But my dad (it was my first car 16 years ago) said the previous owner swapped it in...

and what about a v8 with a cam, headers, exhaust and gears in it? would that get me closer?
 
jene said:
Sweet.. That is what a friend of mine told me earlier today. What tranny did the v8/307 regals have? My 84 had a th350 or something in it.. But my dad (it was my first car 16 years ago) said the previous owner swapped it in...

and what about a v8 with a cam, headers, exhaust and gears in it? would that get me closer?
Click to expand...

You specifically want a Buick...right?
 
If you want 13's just build a mild small block with a forged bottom end, or get yourself one of those GMPP crate motors and then drop a 125 shot on it....whatever get's you to the 400-450HP range.

A well built 10 bolt with the right gears will handle the power. A prepped TH350 or Powerslide, the right converter, sticky tires....should be in the low 13's all day long and consistent as long as the driver has skills. High 12's if you have good RT and 60's.

The only time squeeze is going to be inconsistent is when you let the bottle run low or don't control the bottle temp and pressure.

The only time it'll hurt your engine is if you don't install it correclty, keep tings out of tune, let it lean out or try to use more of it than you should, but most mild built engines can handle 100-125 shot quite safely IMHO, and you can get systems that are pretty much bolt on and play.

Tim
 
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