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Sparkyscott33

New Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
16
My name is Scott
I have always wanted a G.N. back When I was working at a Buick dealer when they first came out.

Kids and all, it never happened, till now..
I just bought a 1987 we4 really a decent car from the south, hardly any rust.
Here in Northern Michigan, the rust just eats them alive..

I'll always have questions, that the only way to learn in my book if you don't know the answer..Anybody got an idea how many are still around, and not totaled out, but still survivors??

Another question is, are the alum. wheels the same or look the same as the 1984 G.N.'s, or is it just me...

My battery went dead, doesn't surprise me, the car from Geo. and all, our batteries are junk after 4 years or so due to the cold.

I couldn't get it to even move the car while feathering the throttle and brake, it would stall way to fast to catch it.. Seemed like electrical, but, once thermostat opened it was fine..

Question, weren't the gm's notorious for disconnecting the batteries and then have to learn the code from the computer all over again??( in the mid 80's thru the early 90's even )...

Am I wrong for thinking this...
Thanks for your time.... Scott...
__________________
1987 Buick Grand national WE4.
 
No, it's a chip, so I'm told is for a 160 degree thermostat.
All else is stock..
Car was bought the day before, it was from St. Louis, not Geo. my fault, batteries way up here don't like the cold.
The antifreeze was only good for +7 degrees as well, good think I caught that right away.
Up here it is normal for a dozen or so nights to go below -30 -40 F...
When it warms up, bam, it's perfect again..

That is not my car, will take pic. when warms up a bit first...
 
Sorry

My finger didn't make it up high enough.is the chip stock or an upgrade :i.e. Turbo tweek or other any other mods ..
 
Well, yours and mine make two, but I would imagine there are a few others.

Not your imagination, 86-87 T-Type and T wheels are the same as 84-85 GN wheel except the black between the spokes

Got any pix of yours. Especially the spid label usually located on the underside of the deck lid(trunk). I'd love to see some.
 
Spid label???
You mean the specs. on the car with the options??
When you say t type and t wheels, what r you referring too??
I was wondering if the wheels were different from the t types..
Mine have no black between them if that's what you mea...
And they are aluminum wheels as well.
What about the regular t types though...
And yes, mine has a we4 code under the deck lid,I could take a pic. of if and when it warms up again..
That's when I'll be putting up some pics. of MY we4 as my avatar....
Even though it is only an ipod camera...
 
Yes the aluminum wheels, they are the same. The 84-85 GN had the black between the spokes, the 86-87 t -Type and T wheels did not. Those wheels were part of the Y56 handling package. That was also part of the WE4 pkg.

In '86 there was T-Type same as ''84-'85. I 1987 the option changed to a touring package and the engine was optional. Hence the T. There could be a t without the lc2 but to get the lc2 one had to get the T package. The WE4 , referred to as the Turbo T in Buick literature included the lc2 and the T package along with the grey bucket interior, w02 black out trim, no hood ornament and the Grand National black bumpers.

Coming Soon... has some more info on the WE4 if you are so inclined.

I'd love to see some pix. If you do post pix of the spid you might want to color over the vin. For security purposes.
ModdedRPO.jpg
 
Ya, no problem at all....
When you say the y56 package, what did that intail??
Also, don't these we4's have aluminum rear brake rotors??
I never did look at mine, as it's been so cold and damp up here...
Scott
 
Not sure why the grayed areas are there, just a page I saved at some point. It has a bunch of the rpo numbers and some good info on what the numbers mean.

The WE4 was a package like the Grand National until late in the year when the Grand National became its own model.
 
Idle issue is likely caused by a dirty IAC (idle air control) motor. It's a stepper motor under the throttle body that directs airflow around the throttle blade at idle, regulating idle speed. When it gets dirty over time (both the area around the throttle blade and the IAC passage itself) it has to move the needle to compensate for the reduced flow caused by the buildup. No problem, except when the battery is disconnected it goes back to default, which doesn't provide enough airflow until it "relearns" it's new position. You should be able to pop the inlet pipe off and spray throttle body cleaner down the IAC port and around the throttle blades WITH THE CAR RUNNING to clean away the buildup. It might set a mass airflow sensor code when you do this, since you are taking the MAF out of the airstream.

There is a set screw on the side of the throttle body that sets the minimum (closed) position of the throttle blade. After cleaning the throttle body, adjusting the set screw will adjust the amount of air going through the blade at idle and therefore adjusts the required position of the IAC motor. You can use a scan tool to view the IAC counts and adjust the set screw until you hit somewhere around 25. Some say 20-25 others say 25-30. This number will keep the IAC close to its default position and eliminate the problem with the car not idling after a battery reset. After adjusting the screw you will need to check and probably readjust the TPS setting. Before you reset all this, you need to check all your vacuum lines, etc. and make sure you have no vacuum leaks, as they will also affect the IAC setting.

GNTTYPE.ORG is your new best friend. Add it to your favorites and start reading. IAC Reset Procedure
 
So, you are saying that a setting of approx. 25. NOT A factory setting would be?? So it will be actually raising the default setting??

Also, what makes a touring suspension vs a regular Regal??
 
I don't have my factory service manual here to look at right now for a factory spec. But I know most on here set it at 25 or so and forget about it. It might be right at 25 now, and grime buildup is keeping it from working proper. Clean it all and see where you are. Factory is probably 25. But it will work there without dying when the battery is unhooked.
 
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