Nightmare...Gauge Cluster Removal!

[xpander343]

You got the 7/32nd bolt out holding the speed sensor onto the back of the cluster? Looks like your speedo cable is unhooked. Since you have a column shift like me make sure u unhook the cable for the gear selector off the steering column. You may need to adjust it where you put it on the column on reassembly.

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That black connector is in the radio hole and attaches to the big white connector. On mine I had to pull the radio to get at it.


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[Wahoo]

My white to black connector was like under the right vent for the cluster.

 

[xpander343]

Thats nice. Saves pulling more stuff apart that you don't need to


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[Wahoo]

Thats nice. Saves pulling more stuff apart that you don't need to


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It's looped around and fished behind the black mount or whatever the thing is called that the cluster is mounted to.

Once it's out I don't think I'm gonna loop it the same way.

 

[larry33kc]

This is good info. Someone make it a sticky.

 

[Wahoo]

I pulled out the cluster, the copper contacts on the back don't look corroded. Everything looks good. It's missing a low fuel light bulb but all the bulbs look good, non look black or burnt like one that would be bad.

What's the best way to clean these contacts? Or test the components?

 

[Wahoo]

I just checked continuity across the bulb sockets and found it to not have continuity. My bulbs have some corrosion on the bulbs themselves. I'm going to get a bunch of bulbs and put new ones in it.

Are there LEDs I can put in instead? Also should I use dielectric grease in each socket?

 

[xpander343]

A pencil eraser works pretty good at cleaning up the contacts, or like a scotch pad too. Careful with the car side of the main harness connector. You break a pin you can't get them and need to get a used connector to take apart for parts.

If you find which leds work post up the part number. I would like to swap mine as well.


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[GNVenom]

The problem you have lies in the bulb sockets, not necessarily the bulbs. Look at:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/alternator_charging_tech.pdf

The copper contacts on the flex board can be reconditioned and cleaned, explained in the tech article above.

 

[earlbrown]

I know that job should be much easier than it really is, that's for sure. Over the years I tried a few times to get my dash out but my speedo cable was LOCKED in play and wouldn't let it slide forward enough to release the cable. After it got unusable and I needed to pull my tach module out, I spent HOURS pulling that stupid thing. I especially love all the nearly identical screws that are different lengths. Like there isn't enough to keep track of already.


......if it makes you feel better, my check engine light illuminates my R remote mirror hole and I've had the repaired tach module back for 6 months and haven't pulled the day to reinstall it. LOL

 

[Wahoo]

A pencil eraser works pretty good at cleaning up the contacts, or like a scotch pad too. Careful with the car side of the main harness connector. You break a pin you can't get them and need to get a used connector to take apart for parts.

If you find which leds work post up the part number. I would like to swap mine as well.


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I just bought 16 194 LED bulbs for the cluster. The cluster has 16 bulbs, if I get a dud for a bulb I'll just clean up one of the bulbs that doesn't look bad, and put them in the sockets that don't matter as much.

I bought these

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/852/

 

[Wahoo]

The problem you have lies in the bulb sockets, not necessarily the bulbs. Look at:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/alternator_charging_tech.pdf

The copper contacts on the flex board can be reconditioned and cleaned, explained in the tech article above.

When I pulled the socket out the contacts that go on the cluster didn't look bad, so I then pulled the bulb out and saw some light greening of the contacts on the bulb, I didn't sand them or anything, just pushed it back into the socket and checked for continuity and it was good, just moving it around in the socket cleaned the contact enough. So since I have everything out, i mine as well put some LEDs in.

I think I might put some di electric grease in all the sockets and then on all the contacts for the socket to cluster. I'll probably scuff all the contacts too!

 

[Wahoo]

I know that job should be much easier than it really is, that's for sure. Over the years I tried a few times to get my dash out but my speedo cable was LOCKED in play and wouldn't let it slide forward enough to release the cable. After it got unusable and I needed to pull my tach module out, I spent HOURS pulling that stupid thing. I especially love all the nearly identical screws that are different lengths. Like there isn't enough to keep track of already.


......if it makes you feel better, my check engine light illuminates my R remote mirror hole and I've had the repaired tach module back for 6 months and haven't pulled the day to reinstall it. LOL

Yeah I had to drop my steering shaft an inch or so and then tilt everything towards me, lean over the steering wheel and do everything from above the cluster! Luckily I'm skinny and don't have a gut because I wouldn't be able to lean over the steering wheel then to peek in with my head against the windsheild looking down.... but I think this thread should be helpful for others!

 

[earlbrown]

I didn't sand them or anything, just pushed it back into the socket and checked for continuity and it was good, just moving it around in the socket cleaned the contact enough.

That's what I have to do every 5 or 6 years so my charging system keeps working. That job is a little easier when all you have to do is unsnap the bezel and remove the two screws (it is more difficult doing it in your mom's driveway using scissors as a pair of pliers though)

I'm planning to take my entire dash out soon so I can fix that permanently, do some mods to my instrument cluster, design a ''whole car hotwire'' circuit, go through the HVAC stuff, and install an extensive alarm with remote start.

What's funny is I mind taking the entire dash out less than just pulling the cluster. LOL

 

[TLIMITED]

That's what I have to do every 5 or 6 years so my charging system keeps working. That job is a little easier when all you have to do is unsnap the bezel and remove the two screws (it is more difficult doing it in your mom's driveway using scissors as a pair of pliers though)

I'm planning to take my entire dash out soon so I can fix that permanently, do some mods to my instrument cluster, design a ''whole car hotwire'' circuit, go through the HVAC stuff, and install an extensive alarm with remote start.

What's funny is I mind taking the entire dash out less than just pulling the cluster. LOL

Hey Earl,If you do me another front cover I'll pull your dash out!!

 

[earlbrown]

I don't even want to think about those. I was grinding on those stupid things all day today. I still hear the rotary tool echoing around in my head! lol

 

[Wahoo]

Well I installed all my LEDs, I used Dielectric grease on every socket and terminals, other than the main plug that was suggested to bend out the contacts. I attempted to bend out the contacts slightly but I didn't want to break them so I don't know if I really bent them out at all.

I hooked up all the connections and then pushed the cluster in and bolted it up, kinda sucks that you can't even feel if the main connector clicked in, because well it doesn't click.
I then put my key in the ignition and attempted to turn the key, and what do you know..... dead battery

So its charging currently, hopefully it will be fully charged soon and I can check to see if the bulbs now work, and maybe I will have full voltage.
I did all this because my car had low voltage on the scan master, I believe it might have been a true reading of the battery though.... so we will see once its full charged.
I did find some burn't out bulbs.

My alternator was tested good, so I hope this will either solve my charging system issue or voltage drop..

 

[earlbrown]

Most likely the low reading on the scan master is caused by a voltage drop at the ignition switch. It's down on the steering column so you didn't mess with it doing your dash mods.

 

[Wahoo]

Most likely the low reading on the scan master is caused by a voltage drop at the ignition switch. It's down on the steering column so you didn't mess with it doing your dash mods.

Does it have contacts I can clean or do I need to replace the entire unit?

Could this also cause my charging system to not charge the battery fully?

I'm not sure if the scan master had the wrong voltage or that was what my battery was producing from not being charged properly.

 

[earlbrown]

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/ignition_switch.htm


the Scanmaster reports the voltage the ECM tell it to. It doesn't actually act as a voltmeter. Any voltage drop between the battery and the computer is what you're seeing on the display.