No air conditioning

john saleeby

Active Member
Current situation (87 GN, 46K miles):

AC blows hot air at all settings.

Thick and thin AC lines under hood are hot to touch when AC is turned on

I most likely have a leak as the AC has not been used for several years and the last time I used the AC several years ago the air was not very cold.

I want to convert to R134A. I need to find the leak and repair it.

Do I find the leak witih R134A first prior to opening the system and replacing the accumulator and orifice tube? Use dye or a sniffer?

What are the signs of a leaking compressor if that is in fact the source of the leak?

What are my next steps? Advice is appreciated as I will do the work and a novice.

John
 
Most likely leak is the compressor - you'll need a sniffer or dye.
I replaced the rubber section of the hoses, rubber ages - most competent hydraulic or truck a/c places can replace the rubber.

Many a/c places can convert & I believe you can get a kit.

I recommend staying with R12 - the system is designed for R12 & a new condenser is expensive. I had trouble finding an a/c place to do R12 - a competent shop will be happy to do R12 in classic cars. My left center vent is blowing 36*.
 
I think a sniffer is more "precise" than some dye...
I converted my GN to 134a by replacing the accumulator/dryer and using 43 oz. of 134a, + 8 oz. of ester 100 oil, and an Everco #38635 orifice tube. Works great.

Claude. :wink:
 
Ac

Thank you for the advice.

What web sites have the fittings, oil, o rings , oil, orifice and accumulator as a kit or even individually?
 
You can get everything at NAPA, but, make sure the adaptor fitting are made out of brass or steel and not aluminum. The aluminum ones don't hold up well and can be cross threaded if you're not careful.

As far as the orifice tube I use the one off a 95 Ford (yes I said Ford) PU. It's orange and will drop the temp some at speed. Others will tell you to use the factory one and it works OK.
 
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