H
Heisenberg
Guest
OK - I am going to start a thread - even though I'm sure there have been hundreds of "No Boost" threads. I can't seem to find any that fit my situation.
It all started with one day - normal car - next day - no boost.
Hmmm..
Looked for the obvious.
Lines off, hoses burst, whatever.
1 - I found the cheapy Autozone Rubber "90" I used to go from my MAP sensor to the hardline had a split in it.
Great! Problem solved right?
NOPE - I should be so lucky.
Still no boost
2 - My engine bay is quite well maintained, but what the heck - let's look at the silicone couplers and clamps etc.
I clean and rub on this stuff daily.
All clamps tight as hell.
Silicone couplers - fine
Everything was fine.
3 - Look at every single vacuum line, fitting, and end.
Everything is new silicone and tie wrapped or clamped
Vacuum check = 17 in - OK
4- Remove actuator rod end from downpipe integral wastegate arm -
Check wastegate arm -
A little squeaky -
PB Blaster and it moves freely.
5 - Rig up a blow gun set for 20 PSI and check actuator.
Now I'm finding things.
Air blowing like crazy from around the actuator nipple where my silicone line attaches - had no clamp or tie wrap. My bad.
Can't finish that since I notice how badly the aftermarket heater coolant line "S" hose was pressing up against the actuator vacuum (pressure) line.
So replace the oversized "S" hose with the proper one and it now has adequate clearance for the actuator line to not be molested.
Clamp the actuator line - repeat air blow gun test - actuator moves well. As it should.
6 - Now notice the actuator bracket wiggles.
The two bolts that are holding it to the turbo compressor body are all of about 1/2" long, and if you add the heavy 1/8" thickness for the actuator bracket, not hardly adequately long enough.
In fact, the lower bolt really was not biting and just spinning.
The turbo drain line is real #@#$(&#$ evil son of a ...if you know what I mean - by keeping me from being able to get that new, slightly longer, lower actuator bracket bolt in there.
I actually had to dent the drain line to be able to do so.
I could have and should have just taken it loose from the underside of the turbo - since that's so much fun.
But Super. Whatever. Done
Find some 3/4" 8mm stainless hex bolts and grind them to about 5/8" long since the turbo compressor threaded holes are blind and the 3/4" long ones bottomed out.
Whatever again - done.
7 - Ok - put it all back together last night - test drive - surely right?
Nope - no boost.
8- Tonight - it's wastegate / puck viewing time.
From what I see - it looks ok.
The puck is attached, and it appears to be ok.
In order to get the downpipe out of my way to look directly into the turbine chamber - I have to loosen the two nuts at the slip fit at the Cat in the AM
Then I will be able to hold a piece of plexi against it and test the puck seating.
But I do not think that is my problem.
I'll suppose I'll do it anyway.
Sort of stinks if that isn't my problem.
9 - At cold (rest) start - my turbine "seems" - how do I say - to be stuck.
A finger push usually requires a little back and forth to make the turbine spin.
Then is spins quite freely.
But there is very little or no end play, and very minimal side to side play
It just on occasion feels "like it is stuck"
**NOTE ** I was only worried about this since a while back I blew out a piece of header gasket and it wedged ever so gingerly in my turbine and I thought - well maybe again.
But at least until I get my downpipe out - the turbine side looks ok with using an inspection mirror.
10 - In my late night poking around - I again find the damned "NEW" replaced Autozone 90 rubber coupler at my MAP sensor to be split.
I use a 90 vs. the stock straight one. Well - at least I try to.
But split Again?
That's a bizarre coincidence.
Even though it's probably not the exact right size at the MAP side nipple - and they are cheap crap.
The reason is I need to find the exact size for the MAP sensor nipple - yet with the right size for my boost hard line.
I realize it might just be pure coincidence that the thing splits so quickly. (since they're cheap crap) - But is it?
11 - *** QUESTION ***
Does the MAP sensor serve any other purpose other than driving the LED Boost Bar graph?
Vortex Buicks say nope. That's it.
True?
Or - to put it another way - would last night's test drive with that broken rubber 90 at the MAP sensor have resulted in no boost?
12 - Currently finishing making a boost tester and will connect it with 20 PSI of shop air to my TA49 inlet bell.
And see if I have overlooked some stupid leak in my intake (Turbo to IC to TB)
No noticeable holes in the InterCooler (Stretch SLIC). I've looked closely at it and it seems A-Ok - Intact.
As I said above - the IC / UpPipe coupler hoses look fine.
But it's possible I haven't noticed a split - and hope the boost tester will prove that.
Do I really have to resort to taking my entire intake system apart and checking each and every component for a leak. I'm kinda of leaning toward no.
13 - *** QUESTION ***
Could I be overlooking a bad modulating solenoid valve?
I thought it would puke a Error Code but maybe only if it is not hooked up it does that.
This system isn't so complicated.
If the turbine spins the compressor, my wastegate and actuator are working, I should be developing boost pressure in my intake.
But - yeah - of course I'm not.
So any ideas would be appreciated.
Cuz I'm not seeing it right now.
This car is not thrashed and trashed - so my head tells me it is something simple.
Very simple.
I just can't find it.
I can't believe how much I'm taking loose and off in trying to hunt this problem.
Help?
It all started with one day - normal car - next day - no boost.
Hmmm..
Looked for the obvious.
Lines off, hoses burst, whatever.
1 - I found the cheapy Autozone Rubber "90" I used to go from my MAP sensor to the hardline had a split in it.
Great! Problem solved right?
NOPE - I should be so lucky.
Still no boost
2 - My engine bay is quite well maintained, but what the heck - let's look at the silicone couplers and clamps etc.
I clean and rub on this stuff daily.
All clamps tight as hell.
Silicone couplers - fine
Everything was fine.
3 - Look at every single vacuum line, fitting, and end.
Everything is new silicone and tie wrapped or clamped
Vacuum check = 17 in - OK
4- Remove actuator rod end from downpipe integral wastegate arm -
Check wastegate arm -
A little squeaky -
PB Blaster and it moves freely.
5 - Rig up a blow gun set for 20 PSI and check actuator.
Now I'm finding things.
Air blowing like crazy from around the actuator nipple where my silicone line attaches - had no clamp or tie wrap. My bad.
Can't finish that since I notice how badly the aftermarket heater coolant line "S" hose was pressing up against the actuator vacuum (pressure) line.
So replace the oversized "S" hose with the proper one and it now has adequate clearance for the actuator line to not be molested.
Clamp the actuator line - repeat air blow gun test - actuator moves well. As it should.
6 - Now notice the actuator bracket wiggles.
The two bolts that are holding it to the turbo compressor body are all of about 1/2" long, and if you add the heavy 1/8" thickness for the actuator bracket, not hardly adequately long enough.
In fact, the lower bolt really was not biting and just spinning.
The turbo drain line is real #@#$(&#$ evil son of a ...if you know what I mean - by keeping me from being able to get that new, slightly longer, lower actuator bracket bolt in there.
I actually had to dent the drain line to be able to do so.
I could have and should have just taken it loose from the underside of the turbo - since that's so much fun.
But Super. Whatever. Done
Find some 3/4" 8mm stainless hex bolts and grind them to about 5/8" long since the turbo compressor threaded holes are blind and the 3/4" long ones bottomed out.
Whatever again - done.
7 - Ok - put it all back together last night - test drive - surely right?
Nope - no boost.
8- Tonight - it's wastegate / puck viewing time.
From what I see - it looks ok.
The puck is attached, and it appears to be ok.
In order to get the downpipe out of my way to look directly into the turbine chamber - I have to loosen the two nuts at the slip fit at the Cat in the AM
Then I will be able to hold a piece of plexi against it and test the puck seating.
But I do not think that is my problem.
I'll suppose I'll do it anyway.
Sort of stinks if that isn't my problem.
9 - At cold (rest) start - my turbine "seems" - how do I say - to be stuck.
A finger push usually requires a little back and forth to make the turbine spin.
Then is spins quite freely.
But there is very little or no end play, and very minimal side to side play
It just on occasion feels "like it is stuck"
**NOTE ** I was only worried about this since a while back I blew out a piece of header gasket and it wedged ever so gingerly in my turbine and I thought - well maybe again.
But at least until I get my downpipe out - the turbine side looks ok with using an inspection mirror.
10 - In my late night poking around - I again find the damned "NEW" replaced Autozone 90 rubber coupler at my MAP sensor to be split.
I use a 90 vs. the stock straight one. Well - at least I try to.
But split Again?
That's a bizarre coincidence.
Even though it's probably not the exact right size at the MAP side nipple - and they are cheap crap.
The reason is I need to find the exact size for the MAP sensor nipple - yet with the right size for my boost hard line.
I realize it might just be pure coincidence that the thing splits so quickly. (since they're cheap crap) - But is it?
11 - *** QUESTION ***
Does the MAP sensor serve any other purpose other than driving the LED Boost Bar graph?
Vortex Buicks say nope. That's it.
True?
Or - to put it another way - would last night's test drive with that broken rubber 90 at the MAP sensor have resulted in no boost?
12 - Currently finishing making a boost tester and will connect it with 20 PSI of shop air to my TA49 inlet bell.
And see if I have overlooked some stupid leak in my intake (Turbo to IC to TB)
No noticeable holes in the InterCooler (Stretch SLIC). I've looked closely at it and it seems A-Ok - Intact.
As I said above - the IC / UpPipe coupler hoses look fine.
But it's possible I haven't noticed a split - and hope the boost tester will prove that.
Do I really have to resort to taking my entire intake system apart and checking each and every component for a leak. I'm kinda of leaning toward no.
13 - *** QUESTION ***
Could I be overlooking a bad modulating solenoid valve?
I thought it would puke a Error Code but maybe only if it is not hooked up it does that.
This system isn't so complicated.
If the turbine spins the compressor, my wastegate and actuator are working, I should be developing boost pressure in my intake.
But - yeah - of course I'm not.
So any ideas would be appreciated.
Cuz I'm not seeing it right now.
This car is not thrashed and trashed - so my head tells me it is something simple.
Very simple.
I just can't find it.
I can't believe how much I'm taking loose and off in trying to hunt this problem.
Help?