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From the reading I have done I'm probably going to Auto Zone today , How big of a deal is it to install ?
 
Turbo Keith said:
From the reading I have done I'm probably going to Auto Zone today , How big of a deal is it to install ?
Click to expand...


Remove the powermaster system. This is accomplished by removing the 15mm nuts securing the PM to the firewall. They are located on each side of the brake pedal. There are four. Two on each side. Remove these, using a long extension, deep 15mm socket and ratchet. Unfasten the brake lines from the master cylinder and disconnect the booster rod from the brake pedal. Unplug the electrical connections from the Powermaster unit and remove it.

Next job is to swap out the powermaster brake pedal. In order to do this, you need to drop the saddle that the pedal is attached to. The four studs that held in your powermaster are the main fasteners that holds the saddle in place. After removing the PM mounting bracket, there is still one more bolt holding the saddle in place. Looking directly at the brake pedal shaft, the bolt is threaded vertically up at the top of brake pedal. Only the head is visible. You should remove the brake light switch and the other switch above it that rest against the brake pedal shaft. Though they appear to be threaded in, they just pull out from the saddle. Take a long 3/8" extension with a 13mm socket. The bolt is about a half inch left of the pedal shaft. Remove this bolt and the saddle will be free. You can remove the saddle completely and when you re-install it, make sure the booster bolt holes align with the holes in the saddle. You may have to tap them with a hammer to align. This makes easier to slide in the booster, especially if you're alone.

OK, now with the new brake pedal and saddle installed, you can install the booster. Make sure the pin is in the recess in the frontcenter of the booster. It can fall out. It just slides in loosely. Install the booster into the firewall and through the saddle and before fastening the 15mm nuts inside the firewall, attach the booster rod to the pedal stud.

Next, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder. Place it in a vice just tight enough to hold it in place. They should include fittings you can use to bleed the master cylinder. Fit a hose tightly over each of the bleed fittings and run the other end of the hoses into the reservoir. Fill with clean brake fluid and then use a rod to push on the plunger of the MC. This will pump the air and fluid into the reservoir. Keep pumping it until all air is removed.

When this is done, you can attach the MC to the booster, reinstall the brake lines and you may be done. If there was no air in your brake lines before you attached the new MC, you will have a hard pedal. If there was air in your lines, your brake light will probably be on, your brake pedal will be low and will pump up. This indicates air in your lines and you'll have to bleed all your wheels, working from the farthest wheel away, first, and so on. If you're by yourself, you can bleed each wheel cylinder by attaching loosening the bleeder cock, attach a hose to it, and submerge the other end in brake fluid. Pump your pedal gently at least 5 or 6 times. Close the bleeder cock and move to the next wheel. Keep the MC filled with clean fluid as you go from wheel to wheel. Another way is to gravity bleed. Just unscrew all the bleeders in all four positions and let the fluid drip out. Keep the reservoir full and when you feel you bled it enough, tighten the bleeders and check your pedal.

If you don't have a TTA vacuum block, you'll have to get your vacuum from the PCV vacuum hose. Purchase a 3/8" vacuum Tee from any parts store. Basically, cut into the pcv hose an inch above the pcv valve and install the T in that line. Run a 3/8 fuel hose for vacuum. Run it to the check valve on the booster. Charcoal filter is not needed. This will provide adequate vacuum for your vacuum brake system.
 
robert duncan said:
Remove the powermaster system. This is accomplished by removing the 15mm nuts securing the PM to the firewall. They are located on each side of the brake pedal. There are four. Two on each side. Remove these, using a long extension, deep 15mm socket and ratchet. Unfasten the brake lines from the master cylinder and disconnect the booster rod from the brake pedal. Unplug the electrical connections from the Powermaster unit and remove it.

Next job is to swap out the powermaster brake pedal. In order to do this, you need to drop the saddle that the pedal is attached to. The four studs that held in your powermaster are the main fasteners that holds the saddle in place. After removing the PM mounting bracket, there is still one more bolt holding the saddle in place. Looking directly at the brake pedal shaft, the bolt is threaded vertically up at the top of brake pedal. Only the head is visible. You should remove the brake light switch and the other switch above it that rest against the brake pedal shaft. Though they appear to be threaded in, they just pull out from the saddle. Take a long 3/8" extension with a 13mm socket. The bolt is about a half inch left of the pedal shaft. Remove this bolt and the saddle will be free. You can remove the saddle completely and when you re-install it, make sure the booster bolt holes align with the holes in the saddle. You may have to tap them with a hammer to align. This makes easier to slide in the booster, especially if you're alone.

OK, now with the new brake pedal and saddle installed, you can install the booster. Make sure the pin is in the recess in the frontcenter of the booster. It can fall out. It just slides in loosely. Install the booster into the firewall and through the saddle and before fastening the 15mm nuts inside the firewall, attach the booster rod to the pedal stud.

Next, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder. Place it in a vice just tight enough to hold it in place. They should include fittings you can use to bleed the master cylinder. Fit a hose tightly over each of the bleed fittings and run the other end of the hoses into the reservoir. Fill with clean brake fluid and then use a rod to push on the plunger of the MC. This will pump the air and fluid into the reservoir. Keep pumping it until all air is removed.

When this is done, you can attach the MC to the booster, reinstall the brake lines and you may be done. If there was no air in your brake lines before you attached the new MC, you will have a hard pedal. If there was air in your lines, your brake light will probably be on, your brake pedal will be low and will pump up. This indicates air in your lines and you'll have to bleed all your wheels, working from the farthest wheel away, first, and so on. If you're by yourself, you can bleed each wheel cylinder by attaching loosening the bleeder cock, attach a hose to it, and submerge the other end in brake fluid. Pump your pedal gently at least 5 or 6 times. Close the bleeder cock and move to the next wheel. Keep the MC filled with clean fluid as you go from wheel to wheel. Another way is to gravity bleed. Just unscrew all the bleeders in all four positions and let the fluid drip out. Keep the reservoir full and when you feel you bled it enough, tighten the bleeders and check your pedal.

If you don't have a TTA vacuum block, you'll have to get your vacuum from the PCV vacuum hose. Purchase a 3/8" vacuum Tee from any parts store. Basically, cut into the pcv hose an inch above the pcv valve and install the T in that line. Run a 3/8 fuel hose for vacuum. Run it to the check valve on the booster. Charcoal filter is not needed. This will provide adequate vacuum for your vacuum brake system.
Click to expand...

I read somewhere about swapping the brake lines at the MC, rear to the front and viceversa, is that nesesary?

I used this link. I’m a picture type of guy

https://turbobuick.com/threads/vacuum-brake-conversion.438078/
 
robert duncan said:
Remove the powermaster system. This is accomplished by removing the 15mm nuts securing the PM to the firewall. They are located on each side of the brake pedal. There are four. Two on each side. Remove these, using a long extension, deep 15mm socket and ratchet. Unfasten the brake lines from the master cylinder and disconnect the booster rod from the brake pedal. Unplug the electrical connections from the Powermaster unit and remove it.

Next job is to swap out the powermaster brake pedal. In order to do this, you need to drop the saddle that the pedal is attached to. The four studs that held in your powermaster are the main fasteners that holds the saddle in place. After removing the PM mounting bracket, there is still one more bolt holding the saddle in place. Looking directly at the brake pedal shaft, the bolt is threaded vertically up at the top of brake pedal. Only the head is visible. You should remove the brake light switch and the other switch above it that rest against the brake pedal shaft. Though they appear to be threaded in, they just pull out from the saddle. Take a long 3/8" extension with a 13mm socket. The bolt is about a half inch left of the pedal shaft. Remove this bolt and the saddle will be free. You can remove the saddle completely and when you re-install it, make sure the booster bolt holes align with the holes in the saddle. You may have to tap them with a hammer to align. This makes easier to slide in the booster, especially if you're alone.

OK, now with the new brake pedal and saddle installed, you can install the booster. Make sure the pin is in the recess in the frontcenter of the booster. It can fall out. It just slides in loosely. Install the booster into the firewall and through the saddle and before fastening the 15mm nuts inside the firewall, attach the booster rod to the pedal stud.

Next, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder. Place it in a vice just tight enough to hold it in place. They should include fittings you can use to bleed the master cylinder. Fit a hose tightly over each of the bleed fittings and run the other end of the hoses into the reservoir. Fill with clean brake fluid and then use a rod to push on the plunger of the MC. This will pump the air and fluid into the reservoir. Keep pumping it until all air is removed.

When this is done, you can attach the MC to the booster, reinstall the brake lines and you may be done. If there was no air in your brake lines before you attached the new MC, you will have a hard pedal. If there was air in your lines, your brake light will probably be on, your brake pedal will be low and will pump up. This indicates air in your lines and you'll have to bleed all your wheels, working from the farthest wheel away, first, and so on. If you're by yourself, you can bleed each wheel cylinder by attaching loosening the bleeder cock, attach a hose to it, and submerge the other end in brake fluid. Pump your pedal gently at least 5 or 6 times. Close the bleeder cock and move to the next wheel. Keep the MC filled with clean fluid as you go from wheel to wheel. Another way is to gravity bleed. Just unscrew all the bleeders in all four positions and let the fluid drip out. Keep the reservoir full and when you feel you bled it enough, tighten the bleeders and check your pedal.

If you don't have a TTA vacuum block, you'll have to get your vacuum from the PCV vacuum hose. Purchase a 3/8" vacuum Tee from any parts store. Basically, cut into the pcv hose an inch above the pcv valve and install the T in that line. Run a 3/8 fuel hose for vacuum. Run it to the check valve on the booster. Charcoal filter is not needed. This will provide adequate vacuum for your vacuum brake system.
Click to expand...
Looks like I will be getting some help with his one , Thank you very much for the info .
 
This was the level of my fluid with the car cold , I turned the key on and I heard the motor run for bout 15 sec . I started it and have the same hard brake issue . Is this normal ?
IMG_1440.jpg
 
gorge1087 said:
Level looks fine. Is the brake light on?

FYI, my light didn’t turn on the day it went out, it just stopped working
Click to expand...
When we got the car , back in september of last year , the brake light would flash when you applied the brakes . I have to say they never felt like our GN but worked fine . To answer your question the light does not come on now .
 
It’s probably going out then. There are several people here that can give you the details on what’s wrong with it. All I know is that I don’t play around with brakes. If anything on them is bad, it’s getting changed
 
gorge1087 said:
It’s probably going out then. There are several people here that can give you the details on what’s wrong with it. All I know is that I don’t play around with brakes. If anything on them is bad, it’s getting changed
Click to expand...
I agree , No matter how fast our cars are we still have to stop them .
 
Before all of this wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, did anyone look post #8?

I understand the worries with a PM. I also know mine holds boost well past where a vacuum system will on the line and has not failed me yet. If it feels "iffy" I change the parts that need to be changed, that can very, but the PM hasn't left me hanging yet and I love the hold at the line.

Flame on all you Vacuum swapped MF'ers........ :cool::cool::cool::eek::eek::eek:o_Oo_Oo_O:cool::cool::cool:
 
Last edited:
TurboTGuy said:
Before all of this wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, did anyone look post #8?

I understand the worries with a PM. I also know mine holds boost well past where a vacuum system will on the line and has not failed me yet. If it feels "iffy" I change the parts that need to be changed, that can very, but the PM hasn't left me hanging yet and I love the hold at the line.

Flame on all you Vacuum swapped MF'ers........ :cool::cool::cool::eek::eek::eek:o_Oo_Oo_O:cool::cool::cool:
Click to expand...


I agree, my PM held boost like there was no tomorrow. But the constant worry of something randomly going out came through a few weeks after I moved to a new city. Then there was the issue of having the whole thing fixed for around 700 bucks or getting a proven system that you can dig a hole and find parts for. For me it was more about budget and convenience rather than performance
 
It was easy for me. Sudden unexpected loss of brakes at 40 mph coming to stop light equalled near death experiences on 2 separate occasions. Both times were 100% remain units after previous minor failures. The cost was a minor factor in the decision but safety on street #1 priority and the third failure in my driveway was the last straw. I don't race and don't need to be able to hold 10 psi boost so pm had to go bye bye. I held out and went through 3 remains before giving up on the pm. Truth is Vacuum works just as good on the street and no more worries when the pm will suddenly not be there.
 
Ok , Just an update . I depressurized the system today to replace the switch behind the brake fluid container and after doing so I could not remove that switch . I plugged it back in and started the car and now the brake light is staying on and a hard brake pedal . How are you supposed to remove that switch ? A big ass socket ?
 
Update , I removed the switch and replaced with a new one . The brakes seem OK but when you touch the pedal the brake light will come on and go off .
 
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