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no spark

Did you get a chance to follow the "No Spark" diagnostics in the sticky? (Post 28)
Charlie may be right, but I Ass-U-Me you checked for voltage at the ecm and coil with key in "on" position?
You won't even have to do that on your back, just on your stomach. :tongue:
Let us know what you find.

Actually I didnt, I am about to do it now. If I test for codes do you think the ses light will tell me if there is a problem with one of the sensors?
 
I dont know sounds like a pain in the a$$ project. I will have to take down the starter down to get to the trigger wire, Then reinstall the starter to check it, take the starter back down to take the wires off at the trigger and reinstall it again.. What if I take the column down and jump out the trigger wire from there? Will That work? Dont mean to be a pain in the a$$ but I'm on my back on the floor with not much room. If I had a lift I wouldnt care..

Jerryl may be right but from what you've stated I still have to say it sounds like the ignition switch. I learned long ago to wire a switch under the hood so if I was working on my car and killed it I could restart it with out any problem. You may want to consider that as an addition.:smile:
 
Jerryl may be right but from what you've stated I still have to say it sounds like the ignition switch. I learned long ago to wire a switch under the hood so if I was working on my car and killed it I could restart it with out any problem. You may want to consider that as an addition.:smile:

Hey Charlie
I tried to follow the sticky no spark but its not too easy to know if your getting proper voltage with a digital meter. I noticed it even states to try and use a needle meter to be more acurate. Rather then going and buying a needle meter I will try your method first. Cant hurt in the future anyway..I read your prior post on how to install it but didnt quite understand 100% would you mind telling me again? What materials should I use? Size wire? Switch? You are talking about a permenant installation right?

Thanks! Bill
 
You'll need a water proof starter switch that you can get at any parts store. 10 gauge wire, and some eyes for the end. Route it from the starter so the wires won't get burned so you need to do some measuring of how much wire you need. One wire attaches to the positive cable and one goes to the small wire lead that's all by itself. If you want, you can get a battery teminal bolt that has threads on both ends and run it along the positive cable from the battery to the starter.
 
You'll need a water proof starter switch that you can get at any parts store. 10 gauge wire, and some eyes for the end. Route it from the starter so the wires won't get burned so you need to do some measuring of how much wire you need. One wire attaches to the positive cable and one goes to the small wire lead that's all by itself. If you want, you can get a battery teminal bolt that has threads on both ends and run it along the positive cable from the battery to the starter.

Hey Charlie

I am having problems with my ignition. I dont know if its the lock cylinder or the switch but many times if I turn the key forward the lights on the dash dont come on and I have to turn it off and on again or move it slightly back for the lights to work. So I am assuming its the ignition may be the entire problem. I tried getting the column down alittle while ago but it only comes down maybe 6 inches after I took the lower dash pieces out and the 2 bolts holding it up into the dash. What else do I have to disconnect? I noticed a bolted fitting under the hood about 10-12" from the firewall...Do I have to disconnect this too or should it drop without taking that off as well. Sorry to be a pain in the a$$ but I definitely dont want to force it down. Rather ask first.
Thanks! Bill
 
You're not a pain Bill. I'm here to learn and teach as well. If I can help I'm more than happy to.

See if there's something holding the column. It doesn't go down far but it is enough to get to the switch. Put the drivers seat at the furthest back position and make sure the steering wheel is at the highest position. This should give you about 8 to 12 inches to get in there and change it. You have to be a bit of an contorsionist to get in there but you can do it.

And the key is only a locking mechanism and physical link to the switch.
 
Thanks I appreciate it.. The column only comes down maybe 5-6 inches at the most..Definitely not enough to get my hands in there. My hands arent huge but not small either.. On top of that its dark and hard too see. There is a rubber patch on the firewall where the column goes threw that may be holding it but on the engine side I noticed that the gear changer from the shifter is there too and may be holding it. Putting the seat back and the tilt all the way up doesnt even come into play cause the column is no where near close enough to hit the seat. If you know what I mean. I took the 2 bolts out from the column thats the only bolts I saw. Are there any other that you can think of?
 
You've got a column shift car? Don't break the shift indicator. It has a clip on the column that has to come off then it should drop down further.
 
No, Its a console shift but the shifter attaches to the steering column on the engine side of the firewall.. Its funny because when you shift the console shifter you will see the portion of the steering column closest to the dash turn in sync.. I never seen that before but then again I havent worked on any of these cars before. Mark (OSOLO) sent me a link on how to remove the entire column. There are 4 bolts at the bottom plate where the column goes threw the firewall that I can losen which will probably give me some more play.
 
No, Its a console shift but the shifter attaches to the steering column on the engine side of the firewall.. Its funny because when you shift the console shifter you will see the portion of the steering column closest to the dash turn in sync.. I never seen that before but then again I havent worked on any of these cars before. Mark (OSOLO) sent me a link on how to remove the entire column. There are 4 bolts at the bottom plate where the column goes threw the firewall that I can losen which will probably give me some more play.

If you loosen the tranny linkage make sure to mark where the bolts were. That will make it easier to line everything up when you put it back together.:smile: The column section is made to move with the shifter so it (yea right) won't be stolen as easily. LOL
 
As you said, "Yeah right" If they want it they will get it one way or another! Thats why the cars in my garage now...Had to move alot of crap out to get it in there but rather be safe then sorry. Its only a 85 but people will chop it up and make some good money on parting it out. Since I bought this car I met a number of people with a number of these cars which makes me wonder how they aquired them! Anyway, Thanks for all the help. Its snowing here in NY today so I dont now if I can get out to get the switch by I defintely will try. By the way, do you know what other makes and models use the same switch? I can almost guarantee that if I ask for a 85 Grand NAtional ignition switch they wont have it. Will the regular buick regal be the same? Thanks a million Charlie! I really appreciate it...Have a happy, health and safe New Year, You and the family..

Bill G
 
Since the car is a Buick Regal, Grand National I don't think you'll have a problem getting parts Billy. Remember that the base chasis is what you ask for. The GN is an option for the car and not the name of the car.
 
Ok, here goes. Went to advanced auto and asked for a Grand National ignition switch. No good. I also asked for a buick regal switch and go figure.. They dont have that either. So I ventured to take the starter down. What a pain in the ass! especially when on your back with very little room. Between the lines and exhaust pipe its a real pain! Anyway, I got it down. I didnt have the switch or anything handy except for some wire and a eye hook connector. I took the eye hook connector and put it on the trigger post and ran the wire to the positive of the battery..I turned the key to on and jumped it at the battery post. The engine cranked but still no spark. I know I did it alittle different from what you said but the way I did it should still work no? If so, then I have another problem..
 
Were all the lights on the dash coming on? If they are then you do have another issue. You really need to go read all of the sticky at the top of the HA forum. It will direct you to the problem if it's not the ignition switch.
 
Your the man Charlie! It was the switch but I had alittle confusion along the way.. couldnt get the car to run for **** with the old ign mod & coil or the
87 mod & coil even with the starter jumped out. Then it dawned on me to check the caspers relay. I didnt hear it click when I turned the ign on. Tested it and the ground was bad. Fixed that and tried to start it normally and Nothing. Connected the starter jumper to the bat and there she goes! apparently my ignition switch and old
module went bad at the same time! I even disconnected the new ign mod and coil reinstalled the old module & coil without the caspers adapter and it would not start. I took the old coil off and put it on the new ign mod and it ran.Process of elimation
tells me the old ign mod is bad...What are the odds 2 things at the same time would go bad? No big suprise it happened to me...lol. If it wasnt for u I'd still be going nuts looking.
But got it! Thanks to your help..

Really appreciate it! HAppy New Year!
 
Just glad you got it fixed Billy. Take her for a ride and have some fun and a happy new year.
 
I will as soon as I get my scanmaster setup..Swapped the ecm and maf today. Scanmaster is sitting on the dash waiting to be connected. I am also waiting on the weds bavaria fins I bought off a guy on the board. Car will look sweet once they are on even with the few just spots. Cant help that right now though. Outta cash for a bit and my wife is starting to get annoyed at the $$ I spent on this thing so far. What can you do right? I tell her it could be worse..I could be spending the cash on worse things...

To you and yours have a very Happy and safe New Year!

Bill
 
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