I had the same problem and it turned out that I knocked my tps out of adjustment. I bought a better quality multimeter re adjusted it and it started right up. Did you bump it by accident? Because I was chasing my tail with this for 2 weeks after a comp cam install. It’s crazy how the tps falling out of adjustment can cause the car to die. If it wasn’t for Scott H I would have never got it running again.
No start after doing compression test
- Thread starter Turbo Keith
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Okay I see that you verified the cam/crank sensors are working and no mechanical issue with the reluctor ring or sheared pin on the cam sensor. After physically checking the condition of both cam/crank sensors- did you verify the cam phase angle is set correctly 25* degrees after TDC- If it is not, then the firing order sequence for the injectors/ignition will be off.
Remember that a combustion engine need four critical things .
1. Compression- ensure that is good.
2. Spark- which you verified already ?
3. Air- which the Mass air meter provide this signal to the ECM
4. Timing sequence order correct for Injector/spark/Ignition
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
- Messages
- 1,671
I did a compression test and they all ran 150 , I do not have spark . I checked and have power going to the ignition module .
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
- Messages
- 1,671
I will check that also
If you dont have Spark- then there is a Cam/Crank sync issue or either the Ignition module is bad or your cam sensor is out of sync with the crank sensor or bad wiring within those electronic circuits.
The Iginition module will not create a spark unless the crank signal and cam signals is sensed and correctly in sync with each other. So swap out and ignition module with another GN car. Aslo inspect all the connector pins at the ignition module/cam/crank sensors for corrosion/continuity/secure connections.
If you have a mutimeter- read out all the ground wire and check for power at the cam/crank sensor between pins "C and pins A" with the power on with the ignition key turned on.
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
- Messages
- 1,671
I will check those things out , Thank You
Make sure you put the meter leads between pin "C and A when checking power- it should read around 9 to 12 volt dc. Pin C is power and A is ground, pin B is the signal wire that the igniton module receives from the sensors.
If no power is read at both the cam/crank sensor connectors then the ignition module is bad or if you got power at one sensor and not the other- then you have a wiring issue between that sensor and the ignition module. The vort-ex No start tree will give you the pin out between the components. Also slightly pull on the wires at the connectors to ensure connection the the pins and they are locked in the connectors.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 10,084
There are 2 pink and black wires on the module plug that should have 12vdc with key on.
One is ccci fuse
Other is ecm/ign fuse
One is ccci fuse
Other is ecm/ign fuse
If you are reffering to the thread where I told him to read for voltage @ the cam/crank sensors- with ignition key power on and there should be approx 9-12 vdc at the cam/crank sensors between pins C and A. Pin B is the signal wire going back to the Ignition on both sensors.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 10,084
I’m not
I’m talking at the module plug
The spark does not need to see the cam sensor to fire. Only crank sensor.
If there is power at both pink and black wires on the module plug, and there is still no spark, the problem is either the crank sensor or the ignition module itself.
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
- Messages
- 1,671
I did have power to both the pink/black wires in the harness that plugs into the module with the key on .
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
- Messages
- 1,671
I removed the battery two days ago and was on the charger until hot .
Turbo Keith
TURBO KEITH
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2015
- Messages
- 1,671
I found the issue , the coil pack / module got fried . Thank you Guys for ALL the help . Next is who has both of them they will sell me ? Again Thank you Guys for the help . Keith
deezdad
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,325
Time for Tr6 Keith, get her runnin hard loose n clean lol, nice job!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 10,084
Type 2 ignition is another option. And is cheaper than oe style.
I been run one for years with no issues. Newer technology module and 3 separate coils. Google search type 2 ignition grand national. Gnttype.org has a list of things needed. Only thing that’s not easily obtained is the retrofit mountain plate but can usually find one on eBay
Here is a link
I been run one for years with no issues. Newer technology module and 3 separate coils. Google search type 2 ignition grand national. Gnttype.org has a list of things needed. Only thing that’s not easily obtained is the retrofit mountain plate but can usually find one on eBay
Here is a link
You can have my ign coil. It’s still good. I only bought a new one because I fell into that no start replace everything instead of testing it. The best lesson I learned on this site was to buy a good multimeter and test parts instead of just buying new parts. Lol
Message me your address. Try my coil first and maybe you won’t even need to replace the ign module.
Message me your address. Try my coil first and maybe you won’t even need to replace the ign module.
I'm not disagreeing to what you post- I was pointing him to read the power from the module @ both the cam/crank sensor plugs @ pins "C and A" to verify that the power is coming from the module which will confirm those wires or good- then he would only have to read continuity of the signal wire back to the module.
If that checked out good then you and grumpy are probably correct about it possibly being the module. Just because the power reads good from the module at the sensor plug does not rule out the module from being bad- that only verify's the module power supply circuit is good and not the buffer/modulating/sync circuit is functioning properly which produces the spark signal for the coils and hands off the crank/RMP signal to the ECM.
Just trying to help a fellow GN lover- hopefully he gets it going.
Haulz A
By the way Grumpy- are you and Melissa gona make it to the TB.com Nationals next month. I dont wana have to race my car in the TAI class as a feel in car and have to run Ron Bailey twice in the finals bc you know I always have race him twice bc he alway have an issue with staging and if he gets time out he crys and wana race over- Lol
Haulz A
