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No start condition. See what I've missed.

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corsair231

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2005
Messages
2,182
Hey Guys, I need some help. I have a no start condition I'm trying to troubleshoot. The story goes like this, Car was running fine. The battery died, (4 year old battery). I removed the battery and the car sat for 3 days until I put a new one in. Turn the key and it cranks over but doesn't start. Checked battery to see if ecu memory wire was connected. It was. I have spark. (Type II setup) I noticed that I didn't hear the fuel pump. I put the fuel pressure gauge on and no fuel pressure. I pulled the relay from the hotwire kit. I have power at the supply. I jumper it to the feed line and the pump kicks on 40 psi. I swap relays. No start. No fuel pressure. Check fuses. All good. I pull the relay and jump the pump again. It comes on and I try to crank the car. Still doesn't fire. No SES codes on the scanner. I put a noid light in the injector harness. No pulse, light does not come on. I also check for voltage at the lead behind the alternator where I have my hotwire trigger plugged in, getting less than one volt. I'm thinking that the ecm has bit the dust.

Now for the questions. I know that the cam sensor can cause the no injector pulse but would it cause the fuel pump circuit not to energize? The lead behind the alternator is supposed to read what voltage? Where is the voltage supplied from(ecm, esc, module)? Is there anything I've missed that may cause these symptoms besides the ecm? I just want to be sure before I drop the money to try a non-returnable computer. Anyone ever had a dying battery toast an ecm?

TIA
 
Might be a dumb question but did you hook the orange wire back up when you put battery in?
 
Yep, Checked it a couple of times. Even probed for voltage back to the firewall.
 
It's just amazing that something could go wrong with it just sitting. I guess I may have a touch of the Autofair curse:eek: . Time I should be spending cleaning I'm now having to spend just to get it running. :mad:
 
Did you check the fuse for the hot wire kit?
 
"The lead behind the alternator is supposed to read what voltage?" Batt volts w/ the key on.
 
The fuses are okay. With the key on I was only getting about .8 volts. If that lead (green wire-tach lead maybe?) carries battery voltage is it on a relay somewhere or does it come thru one of the electronics? I've tried following an online wiring digram but I'm having to jump from page to page and it's confusing as all get outs.:redface:

Doesn't help that I've been up all night and can't see straight.
 
There should be 2 leads. 1 green, 1 blk. As I recall, the blk is the pump jump lead, and is dead, til you jump from hot post of the alt, to that lead.
I may have it bassackwards,,, but, I'm ancient, and the memory is ???
 
If you read the voltage at the hotwire coil + and hit the key do you see anything? I would wonder if the orange wire is messed up. I know you checked it and probed for voltage at the firewall but did you probe voltage at the firewall while cranking? The reason I ask is that it's possible (I've seen it) to have a connection that will supply the voltage without load but once current starts to flow the voltage gets dropped at a bad connection and there's nothing for anything else. Unless you fried the ECM it almost has to be a power supply issue as you've lost several ECM driven functions. Also, seeing how the battery was the last thing touched before the problem I would unhook the battery and hook it back up just to be sure the connections are good.
 
I believe ...

there is a fuseable-link that feeds the fuel circuit, from the starter post.:confused: They can clear even when youir driving.:eek: Just ask me how I know!:mad:
 
Error!

the only link directly linking the fuel delivery, is from the org. wire thru the ecm. I just checked.:redface:
 
Thanks guys for the replies.

Bandit, I didn't think about the the possibility of the voltage dropping under load. I have unhooked the battery several times so I'm sure of the connections there. I guess I'll try a new lead off of the battery and tie it in on the back side of the plug of the orange wire to take that fuseable lead out of the equation. I reckon I'll wait one more day before I order an ecm.

I work 12 hour shifts at night so on my rotation on I don't have a lot of time to tinker :frown: .
 
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