no start problem

[Anthony K]

new alt, new Big Al's Mini-Starter, 10 month old Optmia red top, grounds are good, but still not starting. had charger on it for 1/2 hour after installing the starter, started, ran for 1/2hour, i shut it off, tried to restart, tries to turn over but very slow and only a few times then dead clicking, shoot me a few ideas please

Anthony

 

[Tampa T-Type]

Trouble shoot one at a time!

If your saying it started then battery is draining down start by removing the pos lead of the battery measure with an amp meter and see how much your power drain is. If it is more than 1/2 Amp start pulling one fuse at a time see when it drops back to normal. With key off put a meter across the open fuse holder and see if it draws any amount of current over a few mAmps to test the circuit in question. You may have a grounded power cable through any powered item on your car, power windows, door locks, ect or a bad Diode on the alternor.
Good Luck

 

[Anthony K]

If your saying it started then battery is draining down start by removing the pos lead of the battery measure with an amp meter and see how much your power drain is. If it is more than 1/2 Amp start pulling one fuse at a time see when it drops back to normal. With key off put a meter across the open fuse holder and see if it draws any amount of current over a few mAmps to test the circuit in question. You may have a grounded power cable through any powered item on your car, power windows, door locks, ect or a bad Diode on the alternor.
Good Luck

just did amp draw... havent had a day off in over 2 months, but anyway, its ZERO! nada. to check i set the alarm off and it would pull 2.amps every time the alarm chirpped. so now what? if i leave a charger on it for a hour at 10amp it will start although slowly ( i have a BRAND NEW Big Al's mini starter on there! ) i also have left the alt disconnected and same thing ( new alt, because the original alt had a bad diode, so i knew to look for that. now i am lost, anyone want $$ to fix it?

 

[bullet87]

I really dont understand. You pull off the positive battery terminal and measure what? Do you test the battery, or some where else for a amp draw? Next with the battery terminal on, you pull a fuse and them amp test the battery again to see if it is drawing? You see I dont understand your explination. No offence, just wondering.

 

[Anthony K]

I really dont understand. You pull off the positive battery terminal and measure what? Do you test the battery, or some where else for a amp draw? Next with the battery terminal on, you pull a fuse and them amp test the battery again to see if it is drawing? You see I dont understand your explination. No offence, just wondering.

amp draw is in line, disconnected batt positive side and connected through my Fluke mtr on 10amp,one end on batt terminal and other end on pos cable completing the circuit

 

[Anthony K]

ttt

 

[salvageV6]

Swapping batteries would be the easiest next test. Use a known good one from your Mom's or Dad's car.

It is possible to have a bad cell or two in an Optima battery, does it always charge on higher 3-8amp. draw all the time?

Otherwise you need to swap the starters to test. :frown:

 

[Mr. T-Type]

1) get rid of the Optima. I went through 4 of them before I switched to an Interstate (yes, I realize its the same company).
2) load test the battery with a VAT-40. As long as its above 9V at 1/2 the CCA value, you shouldn't have a problem
3) with an amp probe, see how many amps the starter is pulling trying to pull while cranking. It shouldn't be more than 300amps (roughly 50/cylinder)

That is the proper way to test it.

 

[salvageV6]

I'm sure he's got a carbon pile right next to his VAT-40.

 

[Anthony K]

Swapping batteries would be the easiest next test. Use a known good one from your Mom's or Dad's car.

It is possible to have a bad cell or two in an Optima battery, does it always charge on higher 3-8amp. draw all the time?

Otherwise you need to swap the starters to test. :frown:

parents live about 2hours away, old starter was same thing bout new one because thought old one had a bad winding, or heat short

 

[SHADOWII]

When you installed the starter, did you check to see if the gears were binding? Some times the teeth are worn or the body of the starter is slightly narrower and tolerances are out. you would have to shim the starter to keep it from binding. another possibility and actually a good one is to replace the starter cable, corrosion forms in the cable and adds to the resistance, causing the cable to heat and eventually will burn or melt. check the connection at the starter post also, if you use a jamb nut between the post and the locking nut, it can leave the connection from the starter field winding to the post loose when you try to jamb the cable connector.

 

[Anthony K]

When you installed the starter, did you check to see if the gears were binding? Some times the teeth are worn or the body of the starter is slightly narrower and tolerances are out. you would have to shim the starter to keep it from binding. another possibility and actually a good one is to replace the starter cable, corrosion forms in the cable and adds to the resistance, causing the cable to heat and eventually will burn or melt. check the connection at the starter post also, if you use a jamb nut between the post and the locking nut, it can leave the connection from the starter field winding to the post loose when you try to jamb the cable connector.

upon install everything looked good, its not that it grinds but wont turn over unless charger was/is on it for a while, i.e. if the charger is on there for an hour, hit the key and it will crank 1/2x and start..i will call around and locate a cable, these cables are turbo cars only right so no Murrays or AUTOZONE right? anyone local to Allen Park want $$ and beer?

 

[Russ Merritt]

I second dumping the Optima.....

 

[SHADOWII]

any auto parts supplier should have a direct replacement. if not. you could try caspers, full throttle speed.etc.