Noob here, what oil should I use?

[TurboSmart]

so low zinc...
will add a Centrum multivitamin to have all the zinc required.

is there any hard proof that confirms that an engine without zzdp will destroy its lifters or whatever parts?

i know turbo buick guys locally that have been using off the shelf oils with no additives since day one without any problems.

 

[m233roller]

so low zinc...
will add a Centrum multivitamin to have all the zinc required.

is there any hard proof that confirms that an engine without zzdp will destroy its lifters or whatever parts?

i know turbo buick guys locally that have been using off the shelf oils with no additives since day one without any problems.

I think you better do a search on ZDDP by Mr. Richard Clark and you might reconsider what vitamins you'll ad to your oil. Also it hasn't been since day one that the EPA got their nose into the mix.

 

[CzyKats44]

Bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of information about motor oil itself. Lots of info on tests, additives ect. The additional reading column on the right is loaded with useful info. Read up and make your own determination. This is a good place to start for making an informed decision.


Also, I've also used Blackstone-Labs.com for oil analysis with good feedback and results.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php - sample report
The comments section in the report was invaluable for my samples.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Hope I'm not insulting anyone.......because this is meant to be sort of a joke based in fact.

Many of us will never suffer the long term ill-effects of poor quality oil. Except for you stock-type show guys. The rest of us will blow our motors up long before by over-boosting, under-fueling, advancing the timing, over-revving, over-heating, and all sorts of stupid costly mistakes.

I have never heard anyone say "too bad you didn't use the right oil. Because if you did, you wouldn't have cracked your head, melted your piston, snapped your rod, and driven over your crank with the flexplate and torque converter still attached to it."

So, for you guys out there who have stock set-ups.........continue the debate. I find this thread entertaining.

 

[earlbrown]

is there any hard proof that confirms that an engine without zzdp will destroy its lifters or whatever parts?

Nope. None at all.

The rules change after the cam is 'broken in'. After the parts work harden (and become married to each other) they are much much tougher than when they cam out of the box. I've never owned a bottle of any kind of ZDDP additive.

That is assuming tappets with a hardened foot and a quality cam black that's ground correctly. Running soft blanks with soft lifters topped with 120# springs and a fast ramp rate is just asking for an ass whipping though. At that point a bottle of miracle jizz is a hail mary play.

 

[Nasty Wendy]

I put 'Twat Juice' in mine.

 

[Shawn N]

I will send you some of my freshest clubbed baby seal oil to try nasty. I also force feed em $5 in pennies beforehand to keep the zinc content high.

 

[smokingunz]

Joe Gibbs racing has zinc in it so you don't have to add anything. my .02$

 

[smokingunz]

I put 'Twat Juice' in mine.

Can you expound on the collection of said "juice"? LOL

 

[Nasty Wendy]

I will send you some of my freshest clubbed baby seal oil to try nasty. I also force feed em $5 in pennies beforehand to keep the zinc content high.

Sweet.

Can you expound on the collection of said "juice"? LOL

Uhm no, no I cannot, not without being banned. I will say that if you spill any wipe it up and for goodness sake do NOT drive through it. Keep that stuff as far away from your tires as possible.

 

[smokingunz]

Sweet.



Uhm no, no I cannot, not without being banned. I will say that if you spill any wipe it up and for goodness sake do NOT drive through it. Keep that stuff as far away from your tires as possible.

Hmmm.... Collection procedure, inappropriate. Keep substance away from tires...and likely all walking surfaces. Noted, thanks!

 

[Buick Mark]

Im using Brad Penn

 

[hensleyt]

I wonder if that Question is Synthetic vs Conventional

 

[m233roller]

so low zinc...
will add a Centrum multivitamin to have all the zinc required.

is there any hard proof that confirms that an engine without zzdp will destroy its lifters or whatever parts?

i know turbo buick guys locally that have been using off the shelf oils with no additives since day one without any problems.

Hate to say it but YES !! there is LOTS of hard proof of flat tappet cam failure because of EPA taking the zinc out of oils. Not just Turbo Buicks but all car manufactures. Better read up before you make your vitamin choices ??

 

[Mike Licht]

Most of the oil out there is decent, I will say this most guys use the wrong grade oil and go too thick. If you have a hydraulic roller cam the heaviest oil you should use is 5W40 is says that on the Morel packaging as well. #1 cause of noisy lifters is too little preload #2 is wrong oil

 

[Nick Micale]

so low zinc...
will add a Centrum multivitamin to have all the zinc required.

is there any hard proof that confirms that an engine without zzdp will destroy its lifters or whatever parts?

i know turbo buick guys locally that have been using off the shelf oils with no additives since day one without any problems.

The only "proof" I have is that we have built a few hundred engines with new flat tappet cams, and I know of only 3 of them that had issues, one at 10K, another at 25K and do not remember the mileage of the third one, but the common oil was Mobil I.

The performance cam manufactures state in their instructions "DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL".

An original engine 1n 1986-7 was most likely NOT run with synthetic at least for a long while, so it was then well broken in and that includes valve springs?

You must also consider the when building a new engine or updating an existing one, the old, original valve springs are then about 60#'s on the seat, and most owners want 100-110#'s when they replace their springs.

I challenge you with this statement, give me one benefit of using synthetic oil in our turbo cars?

There are many reasons I can give you NOT to use synthetic oil, but the most common sense one is it is a waste of $$$, as it will become contaminated just as fast as regular oil so there will be no extended interval to changing the oil.

 

[Nick Micale]

Most of the oil out there is decent, I will say this most guys use the wrong grade oil and go too thick. If you have a hydraulic roller cam the heaviest oil you should use is 5W40 is says that on the Morel packaging as well. #1 cause of noisy lifters is too little preload #2 is wrong oil

Mike, I really do not give a damn what Morel says, but we have NEVER seen an issue with heavier oil?

Have seen many issues with too light an oil, especially on roller cams because the psi loading on the roller bearings and roller-to-cam is extremely high especially at high RPM and boost.

The cast hydraulic roller cam can and will show lots of wear if taken to the limit after lots of miles or runs.

We have used 20W-50 for lots of years in street and race cars and I care less about what some tech guy behind a desk states, and our reliability with engines has show to work well.

A 5w-40 oil will drain like water when hot as compared to 20w-50.

 

[Ttype6]

All light oils aren't the same. All heavy oils aren't the same. All synthetic oils aren't the same. All engines don't have the same oil needs. If Mobil 1 oil is used in some production engines,it probably doesn't offer the ultimate protection,but it probably offers more than the standard conventional oil. The reason I say it doesn't offer the ultimate protection is because the EPA allows it to be used.
Synthetic oils can tolerate more heat and can have a stronger film strength than the same weight conventional oil. Oil doesn't just lubricate. It also is a heat transfer agent. There are so many things to consider when choosing an oil. The concerns I have for my engine are my .015"- .018" bearing clearances,my valve spring pressures,and my roller lifters. I need oil to flow easily and I need a higher film strength. I need a lighter oil to flow into and through my tight bearing clearances,however I also need a higher film strength. The only way to get these two features is with a synthetic oil. I use the same oil the Joe Gibbs racing uses when they race their cars for 500 miles at 9,000 rpm. Synthetic Driven Oils.

 

[m233roller]

Yup you are absolutely correct as there are many, many factors that go along with all this oil science. I personally won't use a synthetic oil and here's why. I had two guys right here in Spokane that I built new engines for and they both just had to have Mobil 1 synthetic in there engines after cam break in and with in 2 to 3 thousand miles both lost flat tappet cams. I fixed both of these engines with the exact same flat tappet cams but gave NO warranty if they went back to synthetic oils. Well this has been several years ago now and using a good conventional oil ( I'm not going to say what brand ) both engines are running just fine.

 

[Ttype6]

Yup you are absolutely correct as there are many, many factors that go along with all this oil science. I personally won't use a synthetic oil and here's why. I had two guys right here in Spokane that I built new engines for and they both just had to have Mobil 1 synthetic in there engines after cam break in and with in 2 to 3 thousand miles both lost flat tappet cams. I fixed both of these engines with the exact same flat tappet cams but gave NO warranty if they went back to synthetic oils. Well this has been several years ago now and using a good conventional oil ( I'm not going to say what brand ) both engines are running just fine.

All synthetics are not the same. All conventionals are not the same. To refuse to use all synthetics because of a bad experience with one is short sighted. If all synthetics are bad, all Nascar engines would explode well before the races ended.