Not sure this is right

[EVIL]

See if there is someone in your area that can help. A TR guy.
It may be an easy fix and possibly just overlooking something.

Are the cables connected to the proper spots in the throttle body?

Pics?

D

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Yes they are. Everything's good. Always has been. It just started happening. I grabbed the tv cable with a set of needle nose to see if the valve itself would move and it didn't. It's stuck for sure. Gotta drop the pan lol. FUN!

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, Hughes pan and filter came in so it's time for you know what. Pulled pan (not as messy as I thought it was going to be) found what I think is the problem. Stared at it tweaking and pulling here and there with no results. Mind you I have zero idea what right's supposed to look like. Kept staring at it because eventually I always figure it out. I think I've cracked it. See pics.

Ok, the first two are as it was as soon as the pan came down. As I kept pushing and pulling the plunger (what I think is the TV) came shooting forward, making that little rocker arm impinge on it the right way. BUT, as I played with it and kept rocking the arm back and forth to move the plunger in and out I can now see how it got that way in the first place. There is NOT a lot of room there to keep that from happening again. I mean as soon as the plunger is flush, there is only a cunt hair worth of contact still left between that plunger face and that rocker arm face. Exactly how deep is that plunger expected to go during the course of it's day on the road? Am I going to be able to re-create this again? Is that little rocker arm not shaped properly? Who can fill me in.

 

[mikestertwo]

The arm must be bent out of shape. The arm should be able to push the T.V. flush with the valvebody without the T.V. plunger pushing past the arm. Also it looks like the safety checkball, liftpin, and spring have been removed from the lever assembly.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok I hooked everything back up and had the wife roll the butterflys all the way forward while I watched that little arm down there. It moves the plunger so that it still stick out about an eighth inch above flush. Is that enough travel?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

If the cable was disconnected the check ball will seat and set the pump pressure at a constant 90lbs assuming the check ball is still in place. This is to protect the transmission in case the cable does break or become disconnected. If you haven't got on the car too hard the transmission should be ok.

mikestertwo: "The arm must be bent out of shape. The arm should be able to push the T.V. flush with the valvebody without the T.V. plunger pushing past the arm. Also it looks like the safety checkball, liftpin, and spring have been removed from the lever assembly."

Great. Do you mean this checkball?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

double post

 

[turbodave231]

Tony,

The VB needs to come down and inspect/clean out the TV valve and bushing. Probably wouldn't hurt to go through the entire VB and clean all the valves and bushings. Not a big deal........ I keep VB gaskets in stock (I buy them in bulk) you can come and get a set. You will need an inch- pound torque wrench. I have extra everything for 200-R4's so if something is damaged, I have replacements.

What if anything did you find in the pan when you dropped it? Any metal?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I didn't go through the pan yet, was swamped yesterday. I do have a pound/inch torque wrench, but it's the old school beam type. It's still a good one though.

 

[mikestertwo]

mikestertwo: "The arm must be bent out of shape. The arm should be able to push the T.V. flush with the valvebody without the T.V. plunger pushing past the arm. Also it looks like the safety checkball, liftpin, and spring have been removed from the lever assembly."

Great. Do you mean this checkball?

Yes. If you didn't feel the transmission slipping then you probably are still ok.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Nope. No slippage felt at all.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, Lonnie told me that little arm is probably bent. Started examining it closer. Now I see what right looks like...

So now it impinges equally upon the plunger and the main body, making this relationship self-limiting in a way (can go all the way flush & nowhere else) time to insert the new 700 filter & bolt up the new pan. SO, I compared filters, and every dimension looks the same except the tube that goes up into the transmission. The factory 200 filter's tube is about .75" longer. Everything else is the same though. Is the filter supposed to be totally parallel with the main body of the trans, or cocked at a slight angle? I ask because there's that option now that wasn't afforded by the oe filter. The oe filter's tube was long enough to have the seal seal up, and limit it's upwards travel. There's pretty much only one way the oe filter can go on. Not the case with the 700 filter. I don't see it being a problem so I just stuck it up in there and seated it the best way possible. As I bolted the new Hughes pan on, I noticed the 3 little support pedestals cast at the bottom of pan that support the bottom of the filter. I realize this is part of the design but I'm not sure how much pressure they're supposed to preload the filter with. Am I guessing I'm only supposed to feel just a little bit of resistance while tightening the bolts?
And final question - like on a set of heads, is there a certain pattern this pan is supposed to be tightened since it's cast aluminum & not stamped sheet steel?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Got it all back together, she leaks a little but not bad - class 1 leaks or smaller. Seems to be driving ok. Still misses 2nd and goes right for first during all kick downs Ah well, I guess it's a governor thing. I'll have turbodave look at it At least I can drive it to his house now lol.