Changed oil with Mobil 1 15W-50, as I have been doing for 20+ years. Changed filter, Purolator Pure One. Started car oil idiot light would not go off, idled it for about 25 seconds. Overfilled oil a little also. Took filter off and not 1 drop in it. WTF? Everything was fine before oil change. Need some help here. How is that even possible? Filter is probably 9 + years old.
Oil filter not filling up
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The pump pushes through the filter. I would pull cam sensor and run the pump with a fancy tool if you have one.
if not unplug the wire at the battery that powers the ECU instal a new filter I just filled and crank it with a gage hooked to the turbo feed line.
then its time to dive deeper. 50 wt dose put a big strain on the cam sensor dive gear and shaft and oil pump shaft.bypass spring
Pickup can come loss and suck air but not likely not my top 4 places to look front cover gasket
if not unplug the wire at the battery that powers the ECU instal a new filter I just filled and crank it with a gage hooked to the turbo feed line.
then its time to dive deeper. 50 wt dose put a big strain on the cam sensor dive gear and shaft and oil pump shaft.bypass spring
Pickup can come loss and suck air but not likely not my top 4 places to look front cover gasket
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did you prefill the oil filter before screwing it on ?
this should be done every time
25 seconds without pressure is not good
this should be done every time
25 seconds without pressure is not good
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no .. with no oil in pump from removing filter the gears just spin and cant create suction
fill the filter (takes a while) and try again
btw if you never fllled the filter before you need to change that bad habit
and idling 25 seconds without pressure isnt good
fill the filter (takes a while) and try again
btw if you never fllled the filter before you need to change that bad habit
and idling 25 seconds without pressure isnt good
Buckshot G/N
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Pacecarta, you mean I've also got bad habits. Have owned my car new since 09/87. For the first 30 years I changed my on oil and never filled the filter, just applied some used oil around the gasket then screw it on. Since I have gotten up in age, and for last 8 years I now go to the local Valvoline quick oil for oil change 10x30, supplying my own filter and zinc. Don't know if they filled filter first. I ask on next visit.
Grand natty garage
Race fuel & gun powder sniffing florda man
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Can you verify you have oil pressure to the rest of the engine at all?
It sounds like the oil pump lost prime. There are a couple ways to fix it.
disassemble the oil pump and 'pack' it with vaseline/grease. (probably don't need to 'pack' it, just coat the gears well) A friend had to do this, so I know it works.
unhook one of the oil cooler lines from the radiator (the top one I think?) and pour in some oil. (I have not done this myself)
overfill the engine with lots of extra oil (only heard about this also)
Bob
disassemble the oil pump and 'pack' it with vaseline/grease. (probably don't need to 'pack' it, just coat the gears well) A friend had to do this, so I know it works.
unhook one of the oil cooler lines from the radiator (the top one I think?) and pour in some oil. (I have not done this myself)
overfill the engine with lots of extra oil (only heard about this also)
Bob
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
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for the amount of time it takes to fill an oil filter vs the damage no oil to the engine might do, I'll take the prefill every time . Even if it only takes "seconds" for an oil filter to fill and supply those galleys and bearings I'll prefill and cut that time down every time.
OG here too. i'm at about 175k miles and many transmissions but only one blown HG and short block has never left the mounts.
OG here too. i'm at about 175k miles and many transmissions but only one blown HG and short block has never left the mounts.
Well I have learned my lesson after 27 years!! I will be refilling the filter. I filled the oil filter 1/2 way, let it soak, then filled it more. Put it on, cranked it with ECM disconnected for 3 10 second intervals. Light still on. I really think TurboBob is right in that my oil pump lost prime. The odds of everything working well and then after an oil change, something breaks is very low . But I also have to do what Grand Natty said and verify I have no pressure. Thank you all for the replies.
TurboBob-I already overfilled it as posted in the picture.
TurboBob-I already overfilled it as posted in the picture.
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For the overfill, you can try REALLY overfilling it then very slowly turning it over by hand, then draining and refilling properly. I think I saw that from Richard Clark, years ago.
I want to say you put in like 20 qts of oil (get the cheapest you can find).
(Edit: found a post from SteveV that says "Drain the oil and fill with 24 quarts of oil! This will cover everything all the way up to the cam and lifters. Do not start or rotate. Then drain and save the oil for use later. Add 5.5 quarts.")
Last edited:
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
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Before you get too far into this do you have a gauge, or are we just going by the "idiot light"? The sender could have gotten stuck. It is possible you lost prime but with the age of this stuff that sender could be the culprit. If it is stock, it is down on the lower pass side front of the block under that radiator hose. Many have a brass tee with a gauge and the sender.
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Make sure the sender down by the filter didn't get bumped and lost contact with the connector which are usually in bad shape .
Jonasterg- that sounds promising but my oil catch pan is only 15 quarts and I am doing this on my back with not the best clearance, but sounds promising.
TexasT & Dynoman- I thought of that too but my filter was empty after my first attempt. I am going to pull the filter off this weekend and see if it is full of more oil than I put in. At any rate very good idea to verify.
Can someone give me an idiot's guide to check it?
TexasT & Dynoman- I thought of that too but my filter was empty after my first attempt. I am going to pull the filter off this weekend and see if it is full of more oil than I put in. At any rate very good idea to verify.
Can someone give me an idiot's guide to check it?
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This works. BTDT.
So to update- filled the filter up 90% with oil. Filled the oil pump housing up with oil (it was dry). I don't have an oil cooler in my radiator so I don't have lines. Disconnected ECM, cranked for about 45 seconds, started it and oil light stayed on. Thinking next step is to remove cam sensor and manually prime it. That is above my pay grade so will have to find someone to do it. Do I need to buy a special tool?
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Those drive tools are inexpensive. 15 - 30 bucks.
It's NOT above your pay grade. The tool is cheaper than paying some BOZO that has a friend that nows someone that had a Grand National.
Time to roll up you sleeves and learn some more about your car you love so much.
1.. Pull the cam cap and
2. take not of window location
3.take a black marker and draw a line from the window to the cam sensor body
4.Make a reference where the sender is in the block.
5. disconnect the battery so you can't rotate the engine
6. Take pictures of every move you make doesn't mater 4 or 40
The timing on the sensor most people think is very critical., If you get the lines to be very close it will run and run good.
One you get the tool, if you don't have a gage just pull the oil feed line from the turbo push a rubber hose over the end and dump it in a Coffey can.
attach your drill running clockwise and crank away, If your living right it should get hard to hold on to in a short time.
Im optimist it will work though I would have used white Lubriplate assembly lab on the pump reasonably.
Once its back together and running ill send you a old Caster cam tool to us to get the cam timing perfect , trust me close is sufficient
I would send you the tools for the price of shipping but you can own your own for the same money from Amazon.
I cant read or spell and this job would be take me less time than I spent trying to type the out.
Time to roll up you sleeves and learn some more about your car you love so much.
1.. Pull the cam cap and
2. take not of window location
3.take a black marker and draw a line from the window to the cam sensor body
4.Make a reference where the sender is in the block.
5. disconnect the battery so you can't rotate the engine
6. Take pictures of every move you make doesn't mater 4 or 40
The timing on the sensor most people think is very critical., If you get the lines to be very close it will run and run good.
One you get the tool, if you don't have a gage just pull the oil feed line from the turbo push a rubber hose over the end and dump it in a Coffey can.
attach your drill running clockwise and crank away, If your living right it should get hard to hold on to in a short time.
Im optimist it will work though I would have used white Lubriplate assembly lab on the pump reasonably.
Once its back together and running ill send you a old Caster cam tool to us to get the cam timing perfect , trust me close is sufficient
I would send you the tools for the price of shipping but you can own your own for the same money from Amazon.
I cant read or spell and this job would be take me less time than I spent trying to type the out.
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You can rent a priming tool from AutoZone . You buy it , use it , then return it for a full refund or keep it .
Part # 18-95560
Part # 18-95560
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