Oil Pan Gasket

[Turbo-Archie]

I don't care what anyone says, this is my opinion on the matter..

If the motor has never been out of the car that you know of, you should pull the motor out of the car.
There are so many things you could find wrong, it just makes sense to pull it and find the problems.
I think of it as a type of spring cleaning..

Inspect the timming chain if its original, oil pick up, grounds, motor mounts, trans mount, valve cover gaskets, leaking exh, ect....
If you pull the motor, you will find problems that need to be addressed...

..

 

[mtbraun]

i've never changed an oil pan gasket, but need to fix an oil leak on mine. trying to figure it out. I notice a possible difference in effort required to replace the different gasket options. the one piece cork (or rubber) gaskets will require lifting the engine to completely remove the oil pan so the gasket can get around the oil sump tube. The two piece gaskets (cometic) or the "Right Stuff" approach might have an advantage in allowing gasket swap without fully dropping the engine pan, so eliminating the need to disconnect motor mounts, raise engine, etc.

of course lifting the engine and removing the pan gives you the ability to clean out pan and pick-up tube/screen, which is probably a good thing to do on old cars. i'm curious what other people think. disconnecting motor mounts and jacking up engine (if you don't have a hoist) is not very difficult, but i wonder how many times the trans pan will handle 500-600 lbs of lifting. this website suggests lifting engine will be required to remove/replace oil pan gasket during rear main seal replacement.

I did not have to jack the engine to remove the oil pan. Mine came right even with old saggy stock motor mounts. you might have to rotate the engine to clear the crank but that's about it.

I got the cork Felpro gasket and plan on using some gasket "glue" in strategic spots on the pan to get my gasket to sit tight before I put the pan back on. that should prevent the gasket from sliding off the pan lip during installation. I used the same strategy on my tranny pan gasket and it worked great.

 

[stickybones]

... The two piece gaskets (cometic) ...

The cometic oil pan gasket is a one piece gasket as well.

Also, when changing the gasket while the engine is in the car, I've never had to lift the engine.

 

[EVIL]

What if someone made valve cover and oil pan gaskets like this one for our cars? I had some aluminum valve cover gaskets with a rubber bead all around similar to this oil pan gasket on an 87 GT and i had them off a on many times and they never leaked.

D

 

[Race Jace]

the problem is with just saying use a "cork" gasket is there is so many different grades and compositions of cork out there. Some of the cork gaskets from the big companies are much thinner and made from a much cheaper grade of cork. this is where people run into problems. We have 2 different industrial cork 20 bolt gaskets and one 14 bolt. They are all made from the highest grade cork you can get. this makes them very durable. They are all a full 1/8" thick. These are so tough we never have a problem with splitting them by over torquing them. The cheap ones you have to be real careful or you will split them easy.

these are the different gaskets i have
- Duttweiler 20 bolt. recommended for stock pans with no girdles. these have all the extra holes for the anticrush bumps. relatively a narrow gasket width wise and 1/8" thick
-RJC-20 Recommended for girdled stock blocks with our deep sump oil pan. This was a gasket we developed to seal with our pans. works very good when sealing a motor up with our pan and a girdle. These do not have any of the anti crush bumps and are much wider to help seal all the counterbores in the girdle etc.
-RJC-20s Recommended for Girdled stock blocks and stock pans. This is kind of a hybrid gasket It is wider to seal the girdled blocks but has all of the anti crush holes so you can use it with a stock pan.
-Duttweiler-14 recommended for all Stage and 84 and earlier stock blocks. It has 14 bolts of course and no anticrush bump holes.

using the right stuff only is really better if you have two machined surfaces together. with the unevenness of these pans and the seams at the front cover and rear main we recommend using a pan gasket. Any of our gaskets can be used with the right stuff for the ultimate seal. don't try this with any other cork gasket cause they will split super easy. The only down side is removing the pan once it is dry.
We really work hard at getting these buicks to not leak any oil. these gaskets really are the best

hope this helps

 

[SS/GN]

I have a parts store cork (ROL Brand) on my GN and it leaks.I ordered one from Jace for my Limited and guess what it doesn"t leak.Both were installed the same.Sooo I guess I get to do my GN againWhen you get the 2 on the bench their is a difference

Kevin

 

[bison]

the problem is with just saying use a "cork" gasket is there is so many different grades and compositions of cork out there. Some of the cork gaskets from the big companies are much thinner and made from a much cheaper grade of cork. this is where people run into problems. We have 2 different industrial cork 20 bolt gaskets and one 14 bolt. They are all made from the highest grade cork you can get. this makes them very durable. They are all a full 1/8" thick. These are so tough we never have a problem with splitting them by over torquing them. The cheap ones you have to be real careful or you will split them easy.

these are the different gaskets i have
- Duttweiler 20 bolt. recommended for stock pans with no girdles. these have all the extra holes for the anticrush bumps. relatively a narrow gasket width wise and 1/8" thick
-RJC-20 Recommended for girdled stock blocks with our deep sump oil pan. This was a gasket we developed to seal with our pans. works very good when sealing a motor up with our pan and a girdle. These do not have any of the anti crush bumps and are much wider to help seal all the counterbores in the girdle etc.
-RJC-20s Recommended for Girdled stock blocks and stock pans. This is kind of a hybrid gasket It is wider to seal the girdled blocks but has all of the anti crush holes so you can use it with a stock pan.
-Duttweiler-14 recommended for all Stage and 84 and earlier stock blocks. It has 14 bolts of course and no anticrush bump holes.

using the right stuff only is really better if you have two machined surfaces together. with the unevenness of these pans and the seams at the front cover and rear main we recommend using a pan gasket. Any of our gaskets can be used with the right stuff for the ultimate seal. don't try this with any other cork gasket cause they will split super easy. The only down side is removing the pan once it is dry.
We really work hard at getting these buicks to not leak any oil. these gaskets really are the best

hope this helps

These gaskets are superior to anything out there. I had one that was on an engine for 3 years and the pan was removed a few times and the gasket wasnt hurt and never leaked.

 

[Nick Micale]

.....................I got the cork Felpro gasket and plan on using some gasket "glue" in strategic spots on the pan to get my gasket to sit tight before I put the pan back on. That should prevent the gasket from sliding off the pan lip during installation. ........

Some sort of glue is ok if only used on the pan side of the gasket, NOT the block side. If you ever have had to remove a pan in the car and clean glue/gasket off the block, you will understand why. :frown:

There are 2 other methods I have used when installing a pan gasket with the engine in the car.

With the Duttweiller cork gasket I use some short lengths of string to tie the sides of the gasket to the pan through the side bolt holes to keep it in place, but leave both ends free to tuck into the pan when pushing it in place. Pull the front and rear of the gasket in position and remove the strings as the bolts are then screwed into the block.

If I am using a TA cork pan gasket, the holes in the cork are small enough to hold the bolts and gasket in place during installation of the pan, and with tight clearance you should leave out the bolts on both ends until the pan is up against the block.

It is important with ANY cork gasket to tighten it in steps, maybe 3 or more times, until it is properly seated and NOT pushed out of place.

 

[jarredsoon]

This is all good info as I am replacing my pan gasket with a cork rjc gasket as soon as it arrives.

 

[DannyJov]

Sorry I'm kinda new to this kinda 'tearing shit off of the old buick and trying to put it back together' type stuff and I'm having trouble dropping my pan..it's 14 bolts. If anyone can offer any suggestions please pm me because I don't want to take this thread over.
Thanks guys I appreciate any help!


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