Oil pan removal

V6POWER

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
I have to remove the oil pan so I can replace a leaking rubber pan gasket. Is the removal an easy job with the motor in the car? Any suggestions to help in removal? Should I use cork, rubber, or composite gasket? Should I install the gasket dry or use adhesive? Thanks.
 
I have used a rubber gasket with a very small number of silicone to pretty much hold it in place, and its held for years.
 
out of the 4 or so times ive done it, i have tried all possible ways to seal it up to my knowledge. the latest and best appears to be a dry cork gasket with a smear of silicone over the seams of the block to rear main cap and block to front cover. what i do to remove pan is to take both engine mount bolts out and jack the engine up a couple of inches by the balancer, not the oil pan. ive never tried it but i think ive read of people rotating the engine to #1 cyl. tdc or bdc, or something and pullin the pan off. what it does is that it gets the counterweight of the crank out of the way! first time may take u 2 hours my guess. last time i did it, it took about 1 hour! hth!
 
very easy to do. once you get all the bolts out the pan will fall. you will have to turn the motor over by hand to get the crank out of the way of the pan. there is no need to jack the motor up or anything. as far as what gasket to use i use the RJC cork gasket. a small bead of silicone around the whole gasket both sides and your good to go.
 
very easy to do. once you get all the bolts out the pan will fall. you will have to turn the motor over by hand to get the crank out of the way of the pan. there is no need to jack the motor up or anything. as far as what gasket to use i use the RJC cork gasket. a small bead of silicone around the whole gasket both sides and your good to go.

i wish i new the turning the crank trick back when i had to take the pan off a few times!
 
Thanks for the responses. Good info re: crank location. :smile:

Do I need to remove the crossover pipe?
 
Thanks for the responses. Good info re: crank location. :smile:

Do I need to remove the crossover pipe?

yes because the pan has to slide backwards and down to come out, and remove the flexplate cover too for extra room to play with.
 
I ordered a Duttweiler gasket from RJC. Hope it arrives this week so the fun can begin. :)
 
very easy to do. once you get all the bolts out the pan will fall. you will have to turn the motor over by hand to get the crank out of the way of the pan. there is no need to jack the motor up or anything. as far as what gasket to use i use the RJC cork gasket. a small bead of silicone around the whole gasket both sides and your good to go.

I'm guessing this works for hot airs too? Mines a leakin'.. :cool:
 
Mine was kinda tight. all i did was pull crossover, t.c. cover get the crank in the right spot. i had to drag the back of the pan lip across the flexplate for the last quarter inch.

not bad by any means.

John

Oh yeah, i used a blue rubber felpro gasket with a touch of rtv at the front cover and blosk union. no leaks yet.
 
very easy to do. once you get all the bolts out the pan will fall. you will have to turn the motor over by hand to get the crank out of the way of the pan. there is no need to jack the motor up or anything. as far as what gasket to use i use the RJC cork gasket. a small bead of silicone around the whole gasket both sides and your good to go.

I found it to be a royal PITA:confused: I had to get the motor way up in the air, then try to slide it back only to have it hit the flexplate. Then the oil pick-up tube would catch on the oil pan tray and the Trans lines kept getting in the way. I got it, but it was not easy.

I also had issues removing the top of the crank seal, rope type. I finally searched here and found that by taking a small screw and screwing it into the seal, I could get a pair of plyers on it and it pulled right out.

Getting the pan back on was just as challenging. Had to remove the oil pick up, get the pan on and then put the pick up back on.:eek:

I used cork with a thin, very thin, layer of black RTV. Tighten up 1/2 way and let it sit for a couple of days (Other things kept getting in the way) then tightened up to spec and added oil. No leaks so far.

I'd like to see someone do it the right way so I could kick myself.

Rich
 
Thanks Pat. Hopefully it won't be as difficult as 54Rich experienced. :smile:

Pat--I went to Piedmont last week and ran my best mph (97.88) with the new PTS tc, unlocked. Car was slow off the line because of fueling so I hope I can get close to 99 mph when I get off the line better.
 
Thanks Pat. Hopefully it won't be as difficult as 54Rich experienced. :smile:

Pat--I went to Piedmont last week and ran my best mph (97.88) with the new PTS tc, unlocked. Car was slow off the line because of fueling so I hope I can get close to 99 mph when I get off the line better.

sweet.. now that convertor is working alot better than the old one. :biggrin: I'm thinking of that comment on that last convertor:biggrin:
 
Julio aka Pat,

Your cell is out of service. Was not able to reach you yesterday so call me on my cell if you have a new number. Tanx..

Johnny
 
maybe it was easy for me since i have hrparts motor mounts and my engine sits higher
 
Got the pan out (very easy) and installed the new cork gasket without any problems. The blue rubber gasket that I replaced had a tear in it that was the cause of the leak. I don't know how the tear got there since I installed the gasket on an engine stand when the motor was out last.
 
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