Oil Pan Won't Seal

[texcuda]

Anyone had any problems getting the rubber gasket with the metal "frame" in it to seal? Is the cork gasket much better? Thanks for ya'lls help.

Chris

 

[turbofabricator]

Go cork, and it will seal very well.

 

[SloGN]

i have had very good luck with the felpro blue rubber gaskets that don't have the frame in them. The key is to make sure that the pan rails and everything is completely free of oil. use a bunch of brake cleaner on them. also you can't over tighten the oil pan the factory had the little tits on the pan just for that reason so you can't over tighten the pan and bust the gaskets. you may simply be not tightened the bolts tight enuff.



HTH

Pat Broughton

 

[NCTURBOS]

Go cork, and it will seal very well.

Ken,

How tight are you going on the cork gasket? Are you using a torque wrench?

I've had decent luck with the rubber ones (GM/Felpro) in the past but thought about using a cork one next time.


K.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Used both cork and rubber, and getting the mating surfaces clean is the key- moreso on rubber than cork.

 

[texcuda]

thanks for the help guys. Are ya'll running the Fel-Pro cork gasket or an off brand specialty?

 

[UR50SLO]

I've used the blue with no trouble in the past... make sure you have a good working PCV system.That'll help keep things sealed up!

 

[Thumper]

If ya want it right, use a cometic oil pan gasket, then you will not have to go back and keep tightening the bolts that work loose.


Thanks
Bill

 

[Steve V]

Fel-pro makes a gasket with a metal frame in it? I would think this would be better than the plain blue one.

 

[turbofabricator]

I have never liked the rubber pan gaskets. They always seem to tear, especially if installing under the car. I torque the pan bolts (with a cork gasket WITH a light coat of Ultra-Black on BOTH sides) to German torque. Gute-n-tight. After torquing literally millions of bolts, I only use a torque wrench on head, main, and rod bolts. (and sometimes air cleaner wing nuts ) I rarely have a leak with a cork gasket and a light coat of silicone. That is what I have been doing for about 8 years. Valve covers leaking.................Is there such a thing as a dry valvecover on a Buick?

 

[texcuda]

guess i'll pick up a Fel Pro cork gasket and be done with it. I normally use the cork gaskets for everything but i decided this time to try the rubber over steel gasket. Thats what i get for trying to "upgrade".

Chris

 

[2QUIK6]

I did rubber on the TTA and GN 2 years ago...the GN started leaking within a few months and went with cork the next time and its been good ever since.
The TTA has been fine for 2 years, but just this week...a huge oil spot under it after I moved it out of the garage...its leaking like a seive all the sudden.

 

[turbofabricator]

Fel-Pro does NOT have a cork gasket. Get one from Fullthrottle or another vendor. Detroit, Corteco, and ROL are the only ones that make a cork gasket. (that I know of) Not sure if Duttweiler has one still. His was top notch, very thick.

 

[49-blues]

I always used indian head brown gasket sealer on both surfaces (allow to dry) on cork gaskets- havent had a oil leak in 25 years!

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I used a felpro blue rubber gasket, bought a inch/pound torque wrench cleaned everything real good. I took my time and sneaked up on the torque final setting.... At first no leaks, 4 weeks later I notice that it is ripped, I'm going with a cork gasket next time.

Chuck