ok, now Im confused 220 vs 400

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As long as its dry outside I am in it. I have not put fire and thieft on over this winter because we have yet to see any snow.

winter this year has been awesome !!!! I almost wish it would snow so I would put her's away and jump back on my Mazda :biggrin:
 
I drive my car 3-4 hours each weekend weather permitting and this winter so far has been like early spring. No doubt that a 400 is potentially stronger but without overdrive its always buzzing on the street at highway speeds. The 200 with its overdrive is the only way for me. I remember my early big block Fords days with 4 speed and 4:11's. Don't want to go there again. With the 200, 3.42's and 28" tires the tach is just over 2000 rpm's at highway speeds with no overheating problems. Try it with a 400 in reasonably hot weather and watch your temperature gage.
 
winter this year has been awesome !!!! I almost wish it would snow so I would put her's away and jump back on my Mazda :biggrin:

I hear ya Dan, I am loving this weather but it can't be good. Global warming at its best. If this weather persists our trees are gonna start blooming again.:confused:
 
If gas mileage or cruising is the big thing just drop a set of 3.23 or 3.08 gears in it. For the money that's going to be spent on a bulletproof 200 and the maintenance to keep it that way, you can fill your Buick up many times.


What would be the RPM be, cruising at 60mph, for a car with a 400 Turbo with the following:

3.23 and 26 inch tall tire?

3.23 and 28 inch tall tire?

3.08 and 26 inch tall tire?

3.08 and 28 inch tall tire?
 
If gas mileage or cruising is the big thing just drop a set of 3.23 or 3.08 gears in it. For the money that's going to be spent on a bulletproof 200 and the maintenance to keep it that way, you can fill your Buick up many times.


What would be the RPM be, cruising at 60mph, for a car with a 400 Turbo with the following:

3.23 and 26 inch tall tire?

3.23 and 28 inch tall tire?

3.08 and 26 inch tall tire?

3.08 and 28 inch tall tire?


I think mine is around 2500rpm @ 60mph with the stock 3.42's and 28" MT's.
 
Hell that's not bad at all.

I wonder if your car would go faster with a change to 3.23 gears and nothing else??

Already thought about that. :D

It goes thru the traps around 5200 or so, at 122mph.
The 3.23's might hurt the 60ft, but would also enable me to turn the nitrous on.
I think it will run out of RPM's before the traps if I use the nitrous with the 3.42's.
 
I have 3.42 gears in mine with a 28"x10.5" MT slick. On the big end I go through at 6200-6300rpm. I made some changes and picked up, so I more then likely would cross at 6400-6500rpm now cause my 10.20 pass, my 1/8th mile was 6.44 @ 107.25mph. I ran 6.40 to test my sixty foot with my new converter letting out with 102mph in the 1/8th.
 
Already thought about that. :D

It goes thru the traps around 5200 or so, at 122mph.
The 3.23's might hurt the 60ft, but would also enable me to turn the nitrous on.
I think it will run out of RPM's before the traps if I use the nitrous with the 3.42's.

So you going to change to 3.23?? Should be interesting!!! Especially with the gas!! :biggrin:
 
I tried 3.23's and 3.08's and believe it or not, the gas mileage did not change. Most likely because even though the rpm's dropped, the load on the engine increases so it evens out in the mileage department.
 
I have 3.42 gears in mine with a 28"x10.5" MT slick. On the big end I go through at 6200-6300rpm. I made some changes and picked up, so I more then likely would cross at 6400-6500rpm now cause my 10.20 pass, my 1/8th mile was 6.44 @ 107.25mph. I ran 6.40 to test my sixty foot with my new converter letting out with 102mph in the 1/8th.

Your converter is slipping too much thats why you are above your calcuated rpm, its a fact that you have to live with on a high stall converter.

WIth a 5% slippage converter you should only be about 5900 rpm@138 mph
 
I am sure I will probably regret getting involved in this thread, but this is a cut and paste from another thread. This is from experience, not what I have read, or what people have told me. But to answer the original post... This trans will support passes reliably in the 9.6-9.7 range with a small concession. If you are already thinking about giving up OD. Loose the lock up. Your 2004R trans will thank you. I can not say how many passes or miles you will get out of it as we all drive our cars differently. But, it definatly should not need to be built on a yearly basis.
Grumpy, if the bashing gets bad here help a 2004R brother out!:wink:

I would think "most" of, or many (not all Grumpy! ) of the cars that are running these faster times are non lock up units. They are much more durable, as the shock is not as great on shifts as a heavier lock up converter.
If you run a 9in Art Carr or similar converter you do not need all of those billet parts to run fast and be reliable.
I have one customer that has put down nearly 300 passes this year (2006) that is a bottom 10 second car, with a 5 disc Vig. It took out the clutches in the converter 2x`s, but the trans is going strong.
Another was built by my partner many years ago, with no billet parts, 694 servo, Borg Warner clutches and band that ran 10.20-9.8 6 years without freshening driven an hour to and from the track.
If more guys were willing to run non lock up converters I`m sure there would be more mid to low nine second 2004R`s out there. People think 400`s are the answer... give up the lock up and you will be better off in cars that run these times.
Just my thoughts, Brian
 
Brian I am standing right behind ya ..well about 100 feet :p We haven't used the LU in Melissa's yet :eek: .. I am really shocked there are that many people still running the 200 goin that quick .. I am getting the feeling that the 400 guys don't do that much street driving . Hell Melissa's car is goin to be a dedicated "beater/work car" for a few weeks while she is waiting for a new car :cool: If it snows the snow tires will have to be put on :redface: .. good opinions here BUT we all know about them :eek: :cool:
 
This is not going to sound to good, but if any vendor can give me a 3 year race street warranty on a 2004r, with no charges for parts and labour i will buy that tranny from you. THis includes street use race use transbrake use, etc. WHo is going to take this offer? Also send it in a crate so i can ship it back to you easier several times.
 
This is not going to sound to good, but if any vendor can give me a 3 year race street warranty on a 2004r, with no charges for parts and labour i will buy that tranny from you. THis includes street use race use transbrake use, etc. WHo is going to take this offer? Also send it in a crate so i can ship it back to you easier several times.

a new car dealer wouldn't give ya that for a 100hp car.. I suppose ya want the same warranty for the motor to :confused: :eek: :rolleyes: ok Ill throw my "opinion" out ... for the cheapest get a 400 and call it a day .. well "MAYBE" the cheapest .. Guess ya never seen a 400 break :p ahhhh winter and the net :cool:
 
I have a th350. If money wasn't an issue I would love to have the best 200 money can buy, but as it is, my 350 performs great at the track and is acceptable to me on the street. I ride slow where ever I go because I think I have the best looking car ever built and I have just enough ego to love it when people pass me with their thumbs in the air pointing at my car...anyway people rode around for many years without overdrive. When my daughter gets out of college I might go to a hi-perf 200...till then....3 gears.
My 2 cents:)

chris
 
Thanks Brian for that added input. The 200 in my GTO is NL with an 8" ATI converter and I think your right about that being a big factor in the life of the tranny.

I'm going to spray the thing into the nines and feel alot more confident doing it now.
 
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