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GNAT87

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
500
Well I blew a head gasket and im doing a complete rebuild while the motor is out. I wanted to post my parts list and get opinions from everyone and see what everyone thought.

.20 Over Diamond Pistons
Eagle Crank
RJC Girdle
Champion Race Ported Alum Heads
Complete Champion Race Intake
Cottons 212/212 Roller Cam
Accufab 90mm Throttle Body
All ARP Hardware
RJC Headgaskets

This is pretty much all of the big parts I will be getting.

Do yall think a single Walbro 340 will handle this or do I need to upgrade to the double pumper?

I am also looking for a set of headers that are not cracked up like mine and look nice new or used. Any ideas?

Thanks everyone for the input:cool:
 
Well I blew a head gasket and im doing a complete rebuild while the motor is out. I wanted to post my parts list and get opinions from everyone and see what everyone thought.

.20 Over Diamond Pistons
Eagle Crank
RJC Girdle
Champion Race Ported Alum Heads
Complete Champion Race Intake
Cottons 212/212 Roller Cam
Accufab 90mm Throttle Body
All ARP Hardware
RJC Headgaskets

This is pretty much all of the big parts I will be getting.

Do yall think a single Walbro 340 will handle this or do I need to upgrade to the double pumper?

I am also looking for a set of headers that are not cracked up like mine and look nice new or used. Any ideas?

Thanks everyone for the input:cool:

I would not use stock rods. Another 5 to 600 for a good set.Cheap insurance .What are you using for balancer and flywheel. Double pumper is nice upgrade depending what size turbo? injectors? Full race ported heads and intake? I would do double pumper
 
K1 Rods...I knew i was forgetting something. 82 lb injectors and GT6776bb turbo. Not sure on balancer and flywheel...Got any ideas?
 
if your going to build it up just do a stroker motor. i wish i did
 
My $.02... T/A heads.
While U R ordering them, get a set of thier headers, too.
Oh ya, the stroker is the way to go!
 
It sounds like you're heading for a pretty serious build up. I vote for a double pumper.
 
The double pump would be good insurance to make sure you have enough fuel to feed that beast. They say stock rods up to 600hp and it looks like you will exceed that so buy a good set of rods. I wish I had installed a girdle and better rods but I thought 600hp was good enough. Of course, once you get use to it you want to go faster. A bullet proof bottom end is definitely worth the money. Not sure I ever heard of a 90mm throttle body. TA Performance headers would be my choice. You are probably crossing the line of street-ability but speed is addictive. You might want to do a little more research on the aluminum heads if you plan a lot of street driving. Good suspension will be required to transfer that much power to the ground. Unless you are running a ball-bearing turbo you may need more converter. Plan on a 9 inch and good axles at some point. Your car will let you know when it is time :-) This is only my opinion based on the research I did when building mine. Good luck and I look forward to seeing some low 10’s in your signature.
 
Maybe something like this?: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/215155-new-double-pumper-sending-unit.html I would say a double pumper at a minimum, or a Aeromotive/Weldon external with a sumped tank or fuel cell. Avoid the plastic fuel cells, though, as the tend to collapse. You are building a potentially VERY powerful car. Don't skimp on fuel system. If it seems too big.........it's probably just right.:) Step up to -6an or -8AN feed line and a -6AN return. An external regulator is also needed to control fuel pressure. This might help: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/240060-revised-regulator-fitting.html The stock location regulators do not have a large enough internal orafice to controll high flow pumps adaquately. If you replace the fuel lines, consider push-lock hose instead of braided steel, because the braided steel tends to seep real bad and will stink up your garage/shop. Hard line is the best way to go. Use annealed stainless steel in 1/2". It bends REAL easy and will not corrode/rust. C-16 race fuel is VERY corrosive to metal lines. (it is also VERY corrosive to cast iron cylinder head exhaust ports---I had to recently throw a good set of ported iron heads away because the exhaust ports had "worm holed" so bad that I took carbide burrs to them to clean the rust out, only to come back out in the shop the next day and the corrosion was already present.:mad: :mad: So, just don't let C-16 sit in a gas tank/fuel lines over the winter. Flush it with pump gas.
 
K1 Rods...I knew i was forgetting something. 82 lb injectors and GT6776bb turbo. Not sure on balancer and flywheel...Got any ideas?

I bought the bhj balancer and jw flywheel. I was told to get those because of eagle crank. ext balanced. I have seen a flywheel on ebay for like $80.00 and says sfi approved but not if it is weighted
 
I would love to get some some TA headers but at the moment out of my price range. Anyone know of any cheaper ones that are good stock replacements(not ebay headers). Im going with a double pumper and thanks for that advice so now im trying to decide iron or alum heads...:confused:
 
Everything I have heard about Hooker headers is that unless your are running in the 9's or quicker they don't work very well. Other than TA Performance / Arizona GN headers I am not sure who else makes a good set. You can't get Terry Houston, Kenne Bell or ATR headers anymore (other than used). Postons are ok but I don't personally think you will get much improvement compared the TA Performance / Arizona GN based on things I have read. I have debated eBay headers for the past year or so. I personally am holding out for a set from TA or Arizona. I do believe you get what you pay for.

For what it's worth, I bought my flex plate from Art Carr in CA and run a stock balancer.
 
Hooker headers are a bad design. I was told stock will flow better if ported. It was proven on a dynojet. I bought a set of hookers about ten years ago then i seen the atr headers and got them instead. get the ta headers. spend the money once
 
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