Overheating in Subzero Weather

Shane

Moderator
Joined
May 28, 2001
So amongst the numerous problems my GN has been giving me this winter, here's a new one.
On the way to work this morning, air temperature of -3F, I turn the Scanmaster on the Clt Setting because I wanted to know what it was reading at. I looked at it at 100F and in the course of 10 seconds I watched the Clt climb from 100F to 200F. I was worried about the Radiator perhaps blowing, but I had to get to work so I decided that if it got to 230F I would pull over. Well, it did, and I did. I have a 160F Thermastat. Also the ATS Reading was flashing "---" on and off.
Later today I went back to get the car, I saw the same problem getting it home to my driveway.
What's up? Any ideas?
 
If you have the stock radiator it might be time to get a new one. It might be plugged. Or your water pump is on the way out.
 
This happened to me when my antifreeze mixture was too weak.

Green slush clogging the radiator.

Bob
 
shane, even if your coolant is just a little low it may have a air lock if you have recently changed coolant or the stat, in which case you need to keep adding till you get the air out. darrell
 
100 to 200 in 10 seconds sounds way too quick to be real. In the rain out here in Ca last month, my trans temp guage was going all over the place up to 300 in the blink of an eye. I had only driven a few blocks, and knew it could not be true. But I don't have much experience with sub zero weather being a California Boy :D . Good Luck,
 
Coolant froze, thermostat is stuck closed, or blown head gasket.
 
So what I'm hearing is flush and fill the coolant and boost the moxture to where it doesn't freeze again. I don't think the headgasket is blown, I would know that. How can I tell that the thermostat is jammed?
Can I use any old block heater or do I need a special one?
 
Originally posted by Brian Mc
Might want to find a block heater...:)

Block heater aint going to help much driving down the road ;) nor will it make any difference if the coolant isn't in proper proportions. It'll just freeze once he gets out on the road anyway.
 
Shane,

May I suggest a winter beater car. I drove my GN through the first northern NY winter I owned it and have always regretted it. Most of the cosmetic damage on my car is from that first winter. Just because you COULD drive your GN every day doesn't mean you have too. Could I suggest a nice rusty '71 Chevelle station wagon? Or perhaps a rotted '79 Jeep Wagoneer? How about a nice Olds Omega? I prefer 4WD but to each his own. Plenty of cheap beaters around. No use messing up your GN. Check the papers, find a good one, don't pay too much. Sell it in the spring or keep it for next winter. You really don't want some soccer mom to run into the back of your GN because she can't get her Explorer stopped on snowy roads.

FYI, my guess is a stuck thermostat or a frozen radiator.

Later:D

Current winter beaters:1989 Ford Bronco, 1990 Saab 9000 Turbo
 
My guess from the tundra, frozen thermostat. Just replace it as a diagnostic. I have experienced this with other vehicles. T is safe in the garage till March.
 
Back in Wisconsin I worked at a gas station beside interstate 90/94. It was not uncommon for a car to be towed in with an overheating problem in sub-zero weather. In most cases we brought the car inside, defrosted the radiator and refilled it with a mixture for a lower temperature. In all cases where a car has overheated we replaced the thermostat. -3 air going through the radiator at highway will freeze it solid in a short time if the coolant isn't up to the task.

You may also see your transmission shifting differently. The trannsmission does not have a thermostat. Fluid constantly flows through the radiator cooler even when no heat is being produced in the transmission. You may notice harsh or even sharp shift points. On one of our cars it would not warm up enough for the torque convertor to lock.
 
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