I finally got the entire thing installed last Friday. I had the plumbing done, tank mounted and nozzle installed for a couple weeks now and my bud Tom wired it Friday. Overall I'm pretty happy with the results. Prior to installing the system the best numbers I'd get w/the 3" was 13.5* TA and 0*KR. Anything over that 13.5* TA number would get KR...not a lot but 1-3* on 93 octane. I've been pretty conservative with the initial testing/tuning and have coaxed 19.5* TA out of her using the same 3" pulley and 93 octane w/0* KR which feels pretty nice on the butt dyno. I plan on increasing the timing a hair in a couple days and maybe swapping on the 2.76" to see how it responds. The only issue I've had thus far is when my car burped coolant from the resevoir all over the front left side of the engine bay. At first I thought it was alky but the system is leak free and the liquid that came out was greasy like coolant. I guess the motor was shaking violently enough from the extra timing to shake out the over flow in the bottle Hopefully this is the last time it happens. Feel free to hit me up w/any questions you may have. I'll post more results as I get em but so far alky is the BOMB
PAC Controller Installed - Prelim Impressions
- Thread starter Dope_SHO
- Start date
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Now for the bad news.....
So I was on the way home from work last night and I wanted to log some scans. Not WOT mind you but just getting it into PE mode to test my new /flame suit on/ alky system (10A fused link to white acc1 wire under driver dash) when the car just died on me. I had just seconds earlier turned up the pump speed (about 50%) and was going to check my 02s to see if they would reflect the additional alky being misted into the system. So I tipped into throttle to about 80% and held it. The car sputtered once and stopped running. My guages didnt freak out and with the exception of the tach showing 0 (there were no SES lights/codes on LS1M) the car appeared to still be running. I pulled over and realized the FP wasn't priming and the starter would make one click and then nothing so I got it towed home. This morning the FP primes (kinda weakly) but the starter still only clicks once. I confirmed all the maxi fuses, ign1, ign2, elek ign, ecm and gen fuses aren't bad. Is it possible the mini relays are bad (ign?). How can I check? My friend who did the install also had a previous splice for my a pillar gauges on the same switched ign source.
So I was on the way home from work last night and I wanted to log some scans. Not WOT mind you but just getting it into PE mode to test my new /flame suit on/ alky system (10A fused link to white acc1 wire under driver dash) when the car just died on me. I had just seconds earlier turned up the pump speed (about 50%) and was going to check my 02s to see if they would reflect the additional alky being misted into the system. So I tipped into throttle to about 80% and held it. The car sputtered once and stopped running. My guages didnt freak out and with the exception of the tach showing 0 (there were no SES lights/codes on LS1M) the car appeared to still be running. I pulled over and realized the FP wasn't priming and the starter would make one click and then nothing so I got it towed home. This morning the FP primes (kinda weakly) but the starter still only clicks once. I confirmed all the maxi fuses, ign1, ign2, elek ign, ecm and gen fuses aren't bad. Is it possible the mini relays are bad (ign?). How can I check? My friend who did the install also had a previous splice for my a pillar gauges on the same switched ign source.
The power source has to be able and sustain 10-15 amps. If you spliced into one of the heavier wires coming off the ignition switch, you should be fine. If not, it may have overwhelmed the fuse/source and taken it out.
Any ?'s .. call or post
Any ?'s .. call or post
so Im not the only one. 
FYI, in your fuse box under the drivers dash, on the left side (if you are sitting in the seat looking at the dash) there are two fuses that are 30AMP and silver (they dont look like the rest of the fuses)
one of these two spots is where you have to put your switched power.
if you use any of the other locations the PAC controller will screw with that particular component.
ask me how I know.
just ask.
FYI, in your fuse box under the drivers dash, on the left side (if you are sitting in the seat looking at the dash) there are two fuses that are 30AMP and silver (they dont look like the rest of the fuses)
one of these two spots is where you have to put your switched power.
if you use any of the other locations the PAC controller will screw with that particular component.
ask me how I know.
just ask.
Sorry for the late replies ,but Ive been busy for a good reason. Long story short is that all my fuses are good, but it looks like my stock timing chain didnt like the combo of 130lb springs and the extra alky. I haven't had time to get it completely apart but all signs point to the valves over cylinder 2 being demolished along w/who knows what else....rebuild in progress.
Sorry to hear bout that. Good luck on the rebuild, we've all been there. Guess its the price of putting a motor to WOT. When you finally get it back together, need a hand with the alky.. dont hesitate and ask. I'm working on a couple things to be added for the GS/GTP.
How many miles where on the stock chain?
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