626gn
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Wow 
Paging all Powerlogger experts
- Thread starter 87geeinn
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Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Would be interesting to see the Bosch 237 to compare as well...
TurboDave, are going to try one now?
TurboDave, are going to try one now?
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Wish I could! I looked all over the place for one of the units I used to have, with no luck. I must have gotten rid of them.
Crap. I GAVE a 237 away to a board member on here who thought he had a FPR problem. Wish I could remember his name. He was supposed to send it back to me if it had no effect.
I am floored at how smooth that is compared to your previous video. Makes me want to go to the garage and check out my accufab unit to make sure it's stable.
Will be interesting to see the log results.
I am floored at how smooth that is compared to your previous video. Makes me want to go to the garage and check out my accufab unit to make sure it's stable.
Will be interesting to see the log results.
I have one you can try... let me know.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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When the weather breaks I'm going to give one a try for the hell of it. I never adjust the fuel pressure for tuning, only when it has moved which my Accufab has done. I use the TT chip so at this point what it the purpose of an adjustable one anyway? I also have fuel pressure drop off with the shut down which I never had with my old billet unit. I replaced my billet one 2 years ago and have not really felt good about the Accufab.
The check valves in my Walboro pumps intermittently don't close also...
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
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I had been battling the same exact issue . Replaced whole fuel system with new walbro 430 pump and new larger lines . Problem went away . Now I'm having a issue with the TPS not going over 3. V wot . I used the 5v power from the TPS to power fuel transducer . I am in the middle of checking the 5v from the ECM . Also all my connections where not soldered . The acufab fpr I rebuilt and has been fine ever since. Of course I didn't discover the TPS issue till I was on a Dyno :-( car would not go past 5k .attached is my weird Dyno sheet . I believe the Dyno was set up completely wrong . 343 hp ?? and 640tq ??? . Sorry to high jack . But would check for 5v from ECM ,fuse able links , ect
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Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Any new results logged?
Not recently, but I have since thrown on a new PTE 6262 and PTC converter and that's pretty fun at 25+psi. Everything seems good as of late. Still have an issue where, on a cold start, the car doesn't want to fire on the first key over and then slowly stumbles to life on the second go. After it starts, it's golden. Never have been able to figure that one out and I've swapped everything and checked all wiring. The hell with it.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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So with boost the fuel pressure is stable now with the new regulator from Kirban?
Yep. That and I fixed a lazy/failing wideband sensor. All good.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Good to hear.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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So I thought I'ld revisit this. I am not convinced the Accufab regulators are the way to go. I had vacuum leaks in the threads and lost pressure immediately after shut off. At boost the pressure was choppy too. This was after sending it back to them to rebuild it too. So here is a back to back to back comparison of the Accufab, Bosch 237 and the Kirbans regulators. The numbers in the box for the Bosch 237 are not correct but the graph shows the story.
Accufab:
Bosch 237
Kirbans
So, the Bosch is the steadiest of all three but the base pressure is 45 line off. If your chip can adjust all the fueling aside from WOT (unlike the TT 6..1) then this looks like it's a winner. If you need to adjust the pressure to 43 then the Kirban's one beats the Accufab in my test. I would like to see others do this test to compare to my results. For now I'm going with the Kirbans. If I change chips to the SD2 then I would definately give the Bosch a try, Ebay has them for $50.
Accufab:
Bosch 237
Kirbans
So, the Bosch is the steadiest of all three but the base pressure is 45 line off. If your chip can adjust all the fueling aside from WOT (unlike the TT 6..1) then this looks like it's a winner. If you need to adjust the pressure to 43 then the Kirban's one beats the Accufab in my test. I would like to see others do this test to compare to my results. For now I'm going with the Kirbans. If I change chips to the SD2 then I would definately give the Bosch a try, Ebay has them for $50.
Coelacanth
Active Member
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Sorry to revive this old topic, but I read it with interest as I (fortunately, as it happens) will soon be upgrading my OEM fuel pressure regulator with a Kirban unit. It's good to know about all these issues with the Accufab unit, because I was considering one (in a recent post in the "Parts Wanted" section) and nobody mentioned boo about these problematic regulators. Glad I bought the Kirban!
My question is re: the discussion about fluid-filled fuel pressure gauges. I just installed one on my fuel rail (I believe the one from Full Throttle Speed) and now I'm reading in this topic that the fluid makes them inaccurate. Do you guys usually drain them, and how was that done? I plan to add an electronic transducer soon...I would imagine that would read more accurately and not be as affected by under-hood temperature changes...right?
My question is re: the discussion about fluid-filled fuel pressure gauges. I just installed one on my fuel rail (I believe the one from Full Throttle Speed) and now I'm reading in this topic that the fluid makes them inaccurate. Do you guys usually drain them, and how was that done? I plan to add an electronic transducer soon...I would imagine that would read more accurately and not be as affected by under-hood temperature changes...right?
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
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I wired an electric one direct to the power logger. But first, verify pressure with another manual gauge. Then you'll know if there is a difference to offset for when going to electric. Electric gauges are nothing more than volt meters. I don't even run the electric gauge, once I started logging it, no need for the physical gauge to me.
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