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Passenger side power window replacement...

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gpadilla1071

Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
938
Hey all,

I bought a repalcement power window motor for my T-Type and was wondering how hard is it to do. I took the door panel off, but don't know how to take the damn motor off. :mad: :confused: Maybe somebody can help me. Your advice is greatly appreciated.

German
 
I've done one before but it's been 12 years ago and the memory isn't very clear these days,but i'll try to assist if i can.

The factory p/w motor was held on by large rivits and you will have to drill or cut them off with a hacksaw or simular tool. You will need some shortlength bolts and nuts to remount it (sorry i don't remember the size i used). It's not that bad of a job depending more on the tools you have at your disposal.
 
Are you talking about the rivet that is hold the bracket? Wow, I guess I have my work cut out for the day. I think I will be taking pictures of the whole process to share with everyone. Thanks.
 
Look at the metal panel and find three dimpled areas that mark the bolts where you need to drill (3) access holes, best way is a 1" holesaw since there's not enough depth there to use a regular drill.
 

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Make sure you hold the X- Brace things with a clamp in the up position when you pull the motor so the window doesn't drop.
 

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The motors rarely fail and were installed early in the process I suspect.

Here's the dimples on my GN's pass. side window.

Other pictures were the drivers side WE4 window area.
 

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The only other option is to remove the entire assy. Remove window,drill out the rivets,slide the entire regulator assy out and R&R the motor. Then reinstall, have fun:biggrin:

This would be for the super anal who don't want to drill holes in the door.
 
The only other option is to remove the entire assy. Remove window,drill out the rivets,slide the entire regulator assy out and R&R the motor. Then reinstall, have fun:biggrin:

This would be for the super anal who don't want to drill holes in the door.

Super anal?????!!!????:eek:

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
Super anal?????!!!????:eek:

Bruce '87 Grand National

I have met and worked on some Super Anal TB owners(you know who you are!!):biggrin: I can be one at times.

I just saw the date on this threads orginal post!:)
 
I have met and worked on some Super Anal TB owners(you know who you are!!):biggrin: I can be one at times.

I just saw the date on this threads orginal post!:)

Ah...I get your point. Nah, you're not that way, just a nice guy as usual. Yeah, I just looked at the original post you mentioned....:rolleyes: Guess it's still nice to be shown how easy replacing the power window motors are for those who aren't familiar with them. I guess I must be "Super Anal", myself. I'm painting my rear GN tail light trims that I bought from Bob here, and I took off, cleaned, primered, and painted the brackets GOLD. They were originally cadmium plated, I don't have the Eastwood Cadmium plate kit, so I thought I'd paint them as close as I could to the original color...which, I can't figure out WHY I did this, as the brackets are not seen at all when the tail lights are mounted in the rear of the GN. My wife pointed this out to me, "Why are you making them exact color, when you can't see them? Are you being Super Anal again with your GN?" Ah...my wife...I love her. :rolleyes:

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
The only other option is to remove the entire assy. Remove window,drill out the rivets,slide the entire regulator assy out and R&R the motor. Then reinstall, have fun:biggrin:

This would be for the super anal who don't want to drill holes in the door.

+2 No need to drill the holes. Just another place for rust to form. The easiest way I found to actually get the motor out (after removing the window, which only takes 10 minutes anyway), was to get a grinder or circular cutting wheel (the pneumatic kind) and take off just the top of the rivet. The inner rod thing will just slide out after that. Trying to drill just resulted in the rivet spinning and spinning.
 
in the passenger side pic i only see 2 dimples and in my ride i only see 2 as well i dont see the third one thats kinda off to the side on its own?
 
window motor removal

Super anal?????!!!????:eek:

Bruce '87 Grand National

When I saw the choices, I became a member of the anal club and drilled the holes. No messing around with the regulator and glass. Easy as mag pie!:biggrin:
 
+2 No need to drill the holes. Just another place for rust to form. The easiest way I found to actually get the motor out (after removing the window, which only takes 10 minutes anyway), was to get a grinder or circular cutting wheel (the pneumatic kind) and take off just the top of the rivet. The inner rod thing will just slide out after that. Trying to drill just resulted in the rivet spinning and spinning.

With the right size and a sharp bit there's no damage done to the inner door skin. The rivets did not spin in my car.;)

Many ways to skin a cat.
 
Considering most of the metal in the door is bare inside, I don't think the edges of 3 holes are gonna be much of a rust issue. :p

I KNOW the centers of them won't be. ;)

Use a little black rustoleum on the edges after drilling, it will look factory, with and without the door panel on. :biggrin:

If you don't use factory rivets you lose show points for originality. :p
 
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