Performance guide....

[Freddie's Buick]

Hey Rich,

How can one get a copy of Jim Ruggle's 'Buick Stage One V6 Performance Guide'....

I'd like to add it to my resources.

You've written that in this guide Jim Ruggles states, "These engines will idle at about 14 pounds of hot oil pressure."

This is interesting.....my service manual states that the oil pressure, (determined at operating temperture), should be 37 psi @ 2600 rpm. Since the engine curb idle specs for this vehicle is about 1000 rpm's hot, if one does the math then this would be close enough to 14 psi. Cool! (Mine is at about 5 psi hot and at about a 3 psi after a long haul ) Overhaul time.........

 

[b4black]

Let me do some digging. I have a pile of them here somewhere.

 

[Freddie's Buick]

Hey Thanks Rich,

By the way, reading a little more from your N/A notes David Chase Silver6 suggests: "After I made the direct fit upgrade for the intercooled cars, running the larger filters allows the option of plugging the filter by-pass valve and providing full filtered oil at all times. This is not possible with the small filters. You will see increased oil pressure and your motor will see more filtered oil. This is a good thing."

25010469 oil adapter for PF24 filter
22527229 adapter gasket

What does David mean by plugging the filter by-pass?

I use Purelator's L24011, (which I think is the cross referance for PF-52). I also have the KB oil booster plate and High Volume pump installed. I made a tee so both gauge and light function after I made the oil pressure upgrades. (My worn engine began to show the red idiot light last summer. It no longer 'red lites' but after a long haul the pressure will go down to between 3-5 psi).

I just squeezed a little more life into the engine until I get the rebuild. What should I keep after the rebuild? ( I pretty much got everything one could imagine to increase oil flow).

 

[b4black]

Next time you have the filter off, take a look at were it screws on. Just below the threaded nipple is a hole with a poppet in it. This is a relief valve or bypass. If the pressure is too high (if the filter is plugged for example), the valve opens to allow oil to bypass the filter.

The problem with the Buick system is that oil tends to bypass even when the filter isn't plugged. Most goes through the filter, but some bypasses. The solution is to plug the bypass, and force all the oil through the filter (even Buick recommended this on performance engines). BUT, the tiny PF-47 can't handle all the oil. Some people have reported actually exploding the filter.


So before plugging the bypass, the filter volume needs to be increased somehow. I like David's recommendation. It simply involves swapping the current oil pump cover with an earlier unit. The earlier units use larger PF-24 filters. They are similar looking, but don't say "METRIC" on the bottom. (The threaded nipple is the difference.)

 

[Freddie's Buick]

So what you mean is that one can actually get away with just installing an earlier pump housing? If so, what year engine should one look for? I'd like to pull one from a U-Pick yard....

 

[unboostedV6]

I'd just like to add that the PF-52 cannot handle having the bypass plugged either. The PF-24 conversion is one I overlooked, but sounds like a great idea. I now use a remote setup with dual Ford racing filters to keep the big chunks out. My bypass is still functional. I believe it's there as a safety measure - dirty oil is better than no oil. The higher the filter(s) flow, the less the bypass will open. GB

 

[b4black]

Originally posted by Freddie's Buick
So what you mean is that one can actually get away with just installing an earlier pump housing? If so, what year engine should one look for? I'd like to pull one from a U-Pick yard....

It think you would need to find an odd-fire 3.8, from 1975-mid'77. Not many of those in the yards. They look identical, but don't have "METRIC" cast into the bottom of the pump cover. Buick 350's may have them as well, but most have the filter at the wrong angle.