Pics of AC removal, Door crash beam removal

[Louie L.]

Guys,
I have decided to put my car on a diet so I have opened a pic gallery of the above projects i have done in the last couple of days to my car. I always wondered what some of the projects would take to do, So i began to take pics and weigh stuff as i go along. Im not finished by far. Anyways i have always enjoyed everyone elses albums, so i thought i share.

And before anyone starts with me I do have a 6 point roll bar in the car with removable sides Pics here

 

[Greasemonkey]

Nice car man. You did a much better job of removing the AC than I did. Just got the sawzall out and cut the box up to help with getting it out

 

[Louie L.]

Originally posted by Greasemonkey
Nice car man. You did a much better job of removing the AC than I did. Just got the sawzall out and cut the box up to help with getting it out

Thanks.
Thats what i felt like at one point while pulling the box. that sucker would just not come out. But i got it out with minimal or no damage.

 

[TurboJim]

Lotsa people removce the AC box. I've been thinking of it too, but am considering just getting a heater box like Bruce has. But, in a street driven car (I'm assuming it is) why remove the door safety structure?????????? You saved what, 10# and now if you get hit from the side, it'll leave a mark

Additionally, since the doors closed add rigidity to the car, I imagine the car will become wobbly? I dunno dude, I dont like that idea....but its your car

 

[Intercooler]

I like the A/C box removal idea but don't think I would do the doors. I remember a list of weight savings that Dennis Cooper posted in the GSXTRA about weight savings. Some of what I remember that would save you a ton more:

-Remove wiper arms and motor if track only.
-Remove front sway bar.
-Fiberglass hood.
-Fiberglass bumpers.
-Fiberglass decklid.
-Remove back seat.
-Remove carpet sound deadener.
-Remove trunk sound deadener.
-Remove washer bottle or at least drain.
-Remove trunk junk.
-Remove sound system.
-Remove console and change shifter.
-Install light weight racing seats or run with just the drivers side in.
-Remove cruise control.
-Aluminum drums.
-Remove A/C.

All I can think of right now

 

[Louie L.]

Jim ,
I know that lots take their ac out. But many have not seen pics of it. I wish i had.

I know what you are saying. But if you look at these beams they taper from rectangular with lots of stregth to totaly flat at the front of the of the door.Then the beam has 5 spot welds on a flat bend to the back of the door. Again they are not holding on by much. I know they are there for safety but i cant see them doing much for door rigidity. If anything the doors are 15 lbs lighter a piece taking a load of the hinges.

i hope this doesnt become an post for the whys or shoulds.... just wanted to show what i have done

 

[Louie L.]

Originally posted by Intercooler
Some of what I remember that would save you a ton more:


All I can think of right now

Yes i have that list. Im working on it, Just got started.

 

[matt87]

nice job Louie, still gonna drive it on the street, looks too pretty for that! what are you going to do with the old mill and are you gonna use any of the bolt ons from that motor for the stage engine?

 

[Louie L.]

Matt,
The current heads, which are fully ported and machined for the xtra headbolts and intake are going on the new motor. The rest is up in the air at this time.

 

[AsphaltAnihil8r]

Can you show what you epoxied
Also who is IMM that did the coatings ,,looks great!!!

 

[turbodave231]

Louie,

I like what you've done! I already did the a/c delete, and I changed over to manual window and locks....oh yeah manual seat too. My car is 3355# with me in it.

I have the glass bumpers and alum supports. I even removed the power sunroof and replaced it with Lexan. I have thought about the door beams but just haven't taken the time to remove them. 30# is alot to remove. It should be worth .03 seconds.

Question? Could you drill the spot welds out on both ends and then cut the beam in half? Would that work? You've been there and done that. I figure you should know.

Dave

 

[Louie L.]

Originally posted by turbodave231
Louie,

Question? Could you drill the spot welds out on both ends and then cut the beam in half? Would that work? You've been there and done that. I figure you should know.

Dave

Turbodave,
You could do that but here are the problems. Even if you center the bit on the spot weld you likely not get all of it and have to hog the hole out. I know this cause i tried to remove the piece at the end to wled it back to the door and had to fight with it.

The other is that you then have to cut the support in about 4 pieces in order to get it out of the door shell through existing holes in the door. That would be just too damn hard. My bud had his done like this.The way i did them just looked to be the way to go.


Asphalt A,
IMM is my buddies Chucks business. They do the trunk kits, hood liners ect. They do awesome work. I have one of their hood liners, Upper door panels.

http://www.immautospecialties.com/

 

[TURBO D]

Louie, nice pics, I was just thinking about doing the same thing with a spare set of doors. Looks like you did the doors mounted on the car? Could you cut the front panel if they were off the car or would the hinges be in the way. Also what did you use to do the cutting on the inside and outside? Thanks Dean

 

[TurboJim]

Louie,

Please dont take it the wrong way. I wasnt discounting what you did, or making taking pics to help others seem like a small deal. Its great that you documented stuff like that for those of us who are considering doing that job.

I was just kinda wondering why remove the bar from the doors. If they are really that little structure anyway, then why leave em.

Sorry if I sounded the wrong way

 

[Louie L.]

Jim,
No problem bud. Im sorry if I came off wrong

Turbo D,
There is a support shaped like the front hinge area of the door on the inside. It takes up what appears to be the whole front of the door. You would have to cut through all that just to get the piece out. Its also right smack where the hinges are. I dont think it would work.

I used a regular cut off tool. I fed the air hose from the back of the door. I held the tool with one hand and cut from the top and bottom to meet in the middle , seemed easier than going straight through. I did have to remove the felt lined metal window guide right above the window motor. It would not allow me to get the tool straight. I ground off the rivet and when done just replaced it back with a small nut and bolt.


HTH

 

[Chuck]

Asphalt,

The paint I use is from Techline Coatings and I've done several local members headers and downpipes over the last couple years. Its a great product that is similar to Jethot but allows the the pipes to cool down much quicker (expel the heat). I did my .63 exhaust housing and TH DP over a year ago and both have held up strong. It cools down twice as fast before I coated it between runs. Its not as pretty as the silver stuff but holds up better. Techline has reported that tests have shown decreased lag on coated exhaust housing in turbo applications.

 

[Scott Atk]

Chuck, If you're talking about "Black Satin" Thats what I coated my headers, crossover, turbine housing and downpipe with. Im running a PT-54 with only a 3000 stall with awesome spoolup. I give all the credit to the coating.

 

[Carolinaturbot6]

Louie, I swear I could eat my breakfast off of your motor. Did you clean it up any after pulling it? How many miles do you put on your car?

I know this comment isn't related to your ac delete job, but you sure do one hell of a job keeping that motor clean. I don't even want to look at mine today now. I feel dirty.

 

[TurboJim]

Originally posted by Scott Atk
Chuck, If you're talking about "Black Satin" Thats what I coated my headers, crossover, turbine housing and downpipe with. Im running a PT-54 with only a 3000 stall with awesome spoolup. I give all the credit to the coating.

Scott/Chuck... tell me more about this stuff please? What is this and where to check it out/buy it?

 

[Scott Atk]

Jim, Its just a 2000 degree thermal barrier coating. You can see it clearly on the pic I sent you of my engine for the PTE website. I bought a quart for something like 160.00 and only used maybe 5-6 ozs. So if you want me to do your headers (oven required) or send you some let me know.