Pictures - up pipe and valve spring cups

[Fikse7]

Finally getting around to changing out my original valve springs and need confirmation that I’m doing this correctly. Couple of questions:

1) I’m using the 980-12 springs, but do I use the factory cups surrounding original springs? Pics attached.

2) After removing my up pipe, I noticed a little oil residue on the TB and cooler side. Pics attached. Is this normal?

Appreciate any guidance or advice..

 

[LANDAU LIMITED]

I didn't use the cups and I wish I would of used the 981's. From what I hear they're a better choice. I have never seen any oil like that in my up pipe.

 

[Fikse7]

I read good and bad with the 981s, so went with the safe choice.

There isn’t oil in the up pipe or intercooler, just the rubber hose. Sorry, I should have been more clear about that.

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

I read good and bad with the 981s, so went with the safe choice.

There isn’t oil in the up pipe or intercooler, just the rubber hose. Sorry, I should have been more clear about that.

There shouldn’t be oil in the uppipe or on the hose. May wanna have a look at the turbo.

 

[BEATAV8]

981’s would be my choice over the 980’s for sure.
The cups can go.

Oil in the up pipe & throttle body is expected if you still have the factory breather connected to the compressor inlet. Or if the crankcase ventilation is inadequate

Rocker shaft braces (clamps) would also be a good idea.

 

[pacecarta]

with 980s pull the dampener out , use the stock outer dampener whish also shims up the spring to get 92# closed
if the turbo has the OE pcv setup from passenger valve cover to the turbo inlet bell then oil can get to turbo, into the intercooler and to tb
most eliminate the pcv pipe plug the turbo bell and use a kn filter in the valvecover ( clean oold oil out of the intercooler and pipes)
i said most remove the pcv pipe ...i personally keep the stock pcv setup when using a stock turbo

 

[Fikse7]

Thanks guys, I still have the stock cam and heads. I really only want to do this once, so should I ... 1) Get the 981s and use as they come without factory stuff or 2) Use the 980s and remove the Comp internal spring and add factory cup? Thought I read about the 981s being too much for a factory cam and wiping out a lobe? I have all the usual bolt-ons running 20-21 lbs of boost. Upgraded turbo and SLIC going on once I get through the factory valve springs and timing chain set.

On the oil issue, I have valve cover K&N breathers on both sides. My PCV valve in the intake looks ancient, should i replace? If so, what do you recommend?

Thx again for sharing your knowledge!

 

[BEATAV8]

On the oil issue, I have valve cover K&N breathers on both sides. My PCV valve in the intake looks ancient, should i replace? If so, what do you recommend?

The breathers should be unrestricted inside. No foam, no rubber flaps, no small diameters. It’s important to let the blowby escape as easily as possible to keep crankcase pressure low.

PCV I’d just clean it and install a check valve in line with it to ensure manifold boost cannot blow past into to crankcase when you are on it.

 

[salvageV6]

I used the 980's without the cups and fiddy cent Felpro valve seals.
Only made it 150,000 miles so far in testing, I'll let you know if they hold up.
The other car has them too, spent the extra buck for Viton seals, only have 75K on that set of springs.
Save your money and get the turbo rebuilt.

 

[Fikse7]

The breathers should be unrestricted inside. No foam, no rubber flaps, no small diameters. It’s important to let the blowby escape as easily as possible to keep crankcase pressure low.

PCV I’d just clean it and install a check valve in line with it to ensure manifold boost cannot blow past into to crankcase when you are on it.

Thanks - will check the backside of the breathers.

Can you explain the proper way to clean the PCV and where to get the check valve.

 

[Fikse7]

I used the 980's without the cups and fiddy cent Felpro valve seals.
Only made it 150,000 miles so far in testing, I'll let you know if they hold up.
The other car has them too, spent the extra buck for Viton seals, only have 75K on that set of springs.
Save your money and get the turbo rebuilt.

Did you shim up the 980s without the cups?

 

[salvageV6]

No.
A coffee can of gas will clean a metal PCV valve quickly.
It's gotta rattle nicely to work right.

 

[Fikse7]

No.
A coffee can of gas will clean a metal PCV valve quickly.
It's gotta rattle nicely to work right.

thanks for the tip - will submerge in gas until it rattles well

 

[salvageV6]

Carb. cleaner and Brake cleaner work as well.

 

[BEATAV8]

where to get the check valve.

Something like this would be fine

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FQHCJ1NH/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWw

 

[XracerX]

Did you shim up the 980s without the cups?

I did Comp 980 springs without cups and I used shims that brought them to 1.697" seated. Your shooting for 1.7" so you can get the spring pressure up to its listed seat pressure of 92 at 1.7". Can't remember exactly but I wanna say I used .030 shims under the springs or else the springs are 1.667" installed by themselves and the pressure is way lower than rated. I think it drops down to the like 84psi at 1.667" rather than 92 pounds seated pressure at 1.7". Its best to buy a set for 8 cylinders and have a shop pressure match a 6 cylinder set for you. That is all I can say to that.

 

[pacecarta]

^ i find the same , usually see 82-85 (at 1.70) testing them without the dampener cups
most stocks turbo 3.8 springs I test are in this range with the cups but have found them as low as 67 and can only attribute this to the spring being from a 3.8NA motor

if i found 5 or more # difference id grab another spring or drop a shim in the cup
if you're using these springs 2-3# variation dosn't make a big deal

when i tried to see how far i could push a stock motor turbo combo i ran 980 springs and because the cam has low lift was able to shim the spring to 103#
did this with murphsters stock motor and that got him to 11.20 on stock turbo 93 and alky (3 nozzles)
, reason for increasing spring pressure was because the stock turbo back pressure was over 50psi at 23psi

 

[Fikse7]

I did Comp 980 springs without cups and I used shims that brought them to 1.697" seated. Your shooting for 1.7" so you can get the spring pressure up to its listed seat pressure of 92 at 1.7". Can't remember exactly but I wanna say I used .030 shims under the springs or else the springs are 1.667" installed by themselves and the pressure is way lower than rated. I think it drops down to the like 84psi at 1.667" rather than 92 pounds seated pressure at 1.7". Its best to buy a set for 8 cylinders and have a shop pressure match a 6 cylinder set for you. That is all I can say to that.

Appreciate the guidance - first time doing this. Where is the best place to purchase the proper shims?

 

[Fikse7]

^ i find the same , usually see 82-85 (at 1.70) testing them without the dampener cups
most stocks turbo 3.8 springs I test are in this range with the cups but have found them as low as 67 and can only attribute this to the spring being from a 3.8NA motor

if i found 5 or more # difference id grab another spring or drop a shim in the cup
if you're using these springs 2-3# variation dosn't make a big deal

when i tried to see how far i could push a stock motor turbo combo i ran 980 springs and because the cam has low lift was able to shim the spring to 103#
did this with murphsters stock motor and that got him to 11.20 on stock turbo 93 and alky (3 nozzles)
, reason for increasing spring pressure was because the stock turbo back pressure was over 50psi at 23psi

What if you used the 980s along with the factory cups? Too much pressure for stock cam?