Pillar voltage gauge for alky pump?

[89mulletbird]

I couldnt wait to get home to look at the PAC manual, but would it make sense to mount a 2" voltage gauge on the pillar to monitor pump voltage for tuning?? I really have no idea how much effect turning the gain and initial knobs have, but this would give a better idea how much alky i was flowing when making adjustments.

I'm guessing I could tap in at the controller or would I need to run wires from the pump? (I didnt install the alky pump in my car).

 

[PhilM]

Pump voltage is not the "greatest" feedback. The preference is simply to look at the knock retard and just adjust from there. I have included limit and range LEDs on my controller to help know what the controller's limits are, but still, the best method to fine tune is to look directly at KR. Adding a voltage gauge seems a bit excessive; if you really want a better secondary indication, you could get an electric FP gauge or even a flow meter, but they are much more costly, approaching the full price of the kits. Ideally, you really want to look at the scanner for knock over any other monitors. If you have too much stuff going on.... indications on scanner, alky controller, another gauge, and the road (the most important!), then you may "miss" something important (low level, clipping, knock to high, etc...) and blow the motor.

Follow the manual you have, and/or contact razor, he'll know a lot more about his kit that me!

Phil

 

[Razor]

Three options. One is current, the other is flow, and the third is pressure.

The flow and pressure guage deal are going to be very expensive, unless you do pressure with a mechanical guage. The ammeter can based on increased current draw show an increase in pressure..but you'll need to look at the guage.. that becomes the problem as your senses when racing are overwhelmed by everything around you.

Lets assumme your running 100 PSI.. now what?

See that "what" is addressed by looking at how the car is running at WOT. If its not picking up knock.. air temp in manifold is low.. and is making power.. leave the alky alone.

If you are picking up knock.... then we need to see as to why.. is the car lean? Is it too rich? Is there way too much timing in the chip? Is the knock false..ie exhuast banging..? This where datalogging starts to become a needed piece of the puzzle.

Now... if your having an air fuel issue not correctable with chip/tuning.. due to the added injection.. then we mess with the controls.. On a Turbo Buick powered application.. my internal preset settings will work 99% of the time. All you do is adjust the blue gain knob 1/2-3/4 way up and work from there.

Even my own car.. since day one my controls are set as the system is delivered to everyone.. my blue knob is 3/4 of the way up.. the rest of the tuning is done with the ECU. When you find that the blue knob is cranked all the way up.. and your making power.. car is in the 10's-low11's in the 1/4.. add another nozzle and bring down the knob.

I bought an ammeter from Westberg MFG in Ca.. thinking in the lines of your post.. installed it in the car.. about the only thing I used it for was when priming the system.. when racing the car.. fugedaboutit.. cant look at anything.

HTH

 

[89mulletbird]

Thanks for the info. I am chasing down a strange KR issue still. I got a new turbotweak chip and the car runs GREAT until the ATS maxes out to "hot", then I consistently get 10 degrees of KR, even cranking the alky to the max does not affect this 10 degrees of KR.

Do you know what exactly the ATS is used for? I was going to just unplug the sensor and drive it to see how it reacts, but would like to understand it better first.

 

[PhilM]

What do they read? And I cant remember, cos I dont have stock setup anymore... but isnt that the one just mounted in the MAF pipe?

 

[Razor]

Thanks for the info. I am chasing down a strange KR issue still. I got a new turbotweak chip and the car runs GREAT until the ATS maxes out to "hot", then I consistently get 10 degrees of KR, even cranking the alky to the max does not affect this 10 degrees of KR.

Do you know what exactly the ATS is used for? I was going to just unplug the sensor and drive it to see how it reacts, but would like to understand it better first.

The ATS is the sensor by the MAF. It reads temp of air going into the intake of the turbo. I dont know if Eric has written code into the chip that would alter the fueling/timing.

An easy test is to pull the ATS sensor out of the airfilter and relocate it somewhere it doesnt read 140+ degree's temp... I dont know how hot it has to be for the ATS to make the scanmaster flash hot.. but the number is high.

On my car the ATS is located inside my intake manifold, so when I look at runs, I can monitor the temp going into the cylinders. I never had issue doing this with Eric's chip.. and there is no issue running the GM sensor inside the intake.

So.. this is what I would do.. get the car warmed up to about 155-160.. do a pull.. if its clean.. then move the sensor to a spot that doesnt get it soaked with heat. Another easy place for this would be on the side of the upper plenum.

HTH