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Plastic in the pan

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daviss

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2003
Messages
683
Please put my mind at ease. When I first pulled the pan I heard rattling and I almost wet myself. Upon further inspection of the debris, it is all plastic. Magnetic drain plug and hand held magnet picked up zero material in the pan or on the screen. I haven't pulled the front cover yet but I would have to believe it is the timing tensioner. This is the first time I've ever been into THIS motor and don't know exactly what's in it. Looking at the bottom of the timing chain with the front cover still on, it is a double roller. I thought the rule was to not use the tensioner with a double roller.

The question is.... How much damage can the plastic do. I'm going to be safe and replace the pump and pickup tube but can the plastic debris tear up the bearings? The bottom end appears fine. I don't want to tear the bottom end apart If I don't have to. I don't want to fix it if it's not broke.

Steve
 
plastic in pan

Hi,

Someone before you has been in the engine (double roller chain) and most likely didn't clean out the plastic from the failed factory timing set (top timing gear has plastic molded to the metal gear to reduce noise). Opinion.

bob
 
Noted. I'm sure someone has been in the motor before me. It's got ARP bolts all over the bottom end. That's why I don't want to tear it apart any more than I have to. Someone spent some time and money on the bottom side so I'm hoping the plastic won't be an issue.

Thanks
Steve
 
Black plastic probably from chain follower, yellowish from cam gear. You are that far into it, for a few more dollars you can put fresh bearings in the bottom end.
 
I've had a little piece of plastic from the cam gear block open the oil pump bpass. Note that this was on a N/A '85 3.8l Buick. Caused low oil pressure with the lifters barely pumped up. Loss of power (engine barely ran) but no immediate/short-term damage.

R&R'd the pump and found the piece of plastic. Put it back together and started looking for another engine. Took the easy way out and after a couple of years found another Regal. . .

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Pop the rod caps off a couple of rods and mains and inspect!!! You only need a decent torque wrench to put it back together. Make sure you put the caps back on exactly as they came off and you won't have a problem.
 
Pop the rod caps off a couple of rods and mains and inspect!!! You only need a decent torque wrench to put it back together. Make sure you put the caps back on exactly as they came off and you won't have a problem.

+1
Look closely for plastic in the oiling holes that supply those bearings.
 
OK, I'll pull the main caps off. I guess the ARP bolts are reusable or are they tty one timers? Thanks for the input.

Steve
 
The ARP rod and main bolts (or studs) are not TTY.

Inspection is free and you are already there! Damage to crank, rods, and block is expensive! If a problem is developing, catch it now.

If your rear main leaks (and what Buick doesn't?) now is the time to fix that too!!
 
Make sure to check the third mail and rods 5&6 very closely. There're the ones that starve for oil most of the time.
 
The ARP rod and main bolts (or studs) are not TTY.

Inspection is free and you are already there! Damage to crank, rods, and block is expensive! If a problem is developing, catch it now.

If your rear main leaks (and what Buick doesn't?) now is the time to fix that too!!

Believe it or not the rear main is not leaking. It looks like the previous guy put in the neoprene seal and it is holding up well.

I guess I'll be pulling the main and rod caps this week. I was hoping to just swap head gaskets and do a little cleanup while the engine was out. Looks like I might be doing a rebuild instead. Oh well, I'm sure it needs it anyway

Thanks for all the input
Steve
 
Well, I pulled the main caps last night. Not bad at all. No damage for sure but the bearings show some wear. I left my camera at work yesterday. I'll try to get some posted for you to analyze next week when I get back from vacation.
 
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