Playing too much, losing my mind....

[TurboJim]

Anyone willing to show me their cgt files and combo info, or even a screen shot of your AF and spark tables. Had my car running pretty good, was playing this AM on the road and noticed target and actual were way off, I got it at 13.9 for idle and when I got it in the 13.2 range the car started running like ****. Seems to like it best in the 12.9 area, but I dont know about running it that rich all the time.

What are you all using for low op AF ratios, and if you';re running relatively lean, how much timing did you add to get it not to stall. I'm at 13.4 and 36* and it stalls once in awhile, richer it idles better, more timing doesnt seem to help. I went to 38* and instead of fizzling out, it just cut out. IN the real low 13's to high 12's it runs like a champ tho.

How long do your all plugs last, those running sub 13:1 AF's?

BTW, my IAC problem is the hole in the accufab TB is too small. I took the IAC out and the idle was only avout 100rpm higher than normal.

 

[norbs]

Try this,,,,,


run in closed loop rpm at idle, let the car warm up very good put the car in gear then adjust the fuel map to get a few % correction from your target 13.5 i suggest. Make sure your target a/f is is close in the adjacent cells. and your ve numbers are not drastic around them. If the iac is fubared its going to fizzle out, so i suggest you fix that first and adust your iac counts so they are about 10-20 in park, not in gear. Your going to have to dealy the closed loop idle to at least 140 degrees also, and your going to have to run it richer until that temp comes up in open loop.

Let me know i this helps.....at all

 

[TurboJim]

Originally posted by norbs
Try this,,,,,


run in closed loop rpm at idle, let the car warm up very good put the car in gear then adjust the fuel map to get a few % correction from your target 13.5 i suggest. Make sure your target a/f is is close in the adjacent cells. and your ve numbers are not drastic around them. If the iac is fubared its going to fizzle out, so i suggest you fix that first and adust your iac counts so they are about 10-20 in park, not in gear. Your going to have to dealy the closed loop idle to at least 140 degrees also, and your going to have to run it richer until that temp comes up in open loop.

Let me know i this helps.....at all

Thanks Norb, but I dont have a problem tuning the VE table. I do it just like you said. What I am not too sure of is AF ratios at different operating parameters. And, if running lean, like 13.5, how much timing you had to add to get it to like something that lean. What is too much timing in those ranges. With chips I had a starting point. With this, I'm starting from scratch, and building the whole character of the car. Wanna get it right quickly with minimal damage, so I come here to ask the guys who either have it set up already, or guys who HAVE set it up completely, to see what their cars liked to get me in the ball park.

Know what I mean?

 

[bruce]

Timing plays and important role with AFRs.
Advancing the timing will allow for more incylinder burning and indicate a leaner mixture, with no fueling changes, well up until you over do it, and get a *lean* miss.

You can't look at just timing or just fuel.

The AFR is estimated on O2 content, not lbs/hr of fuel and air used. Better burning drops the loose O2 count down, and changes the REPORTED AFR.

 

[TurboJim]

Originally posted by bruce
Timing plays and important role with AFRs.
Advancing the timing will allow for more incylinder burning and indicate a leaner mixture, with no fueling changes, well up until you over do it, and get a *lean* miss.

You can't look at just timing or just fuel.

The AFR is estimated on O2 content, not lbs/hr of fuel and air used. Better burning drops the loose O2 count down, and changes the REPORTED AFR.

Well, my plugs are coming out dark, not BLACK or sooty, so 12.9 is definately rich there but not OVERLY rich. I dont see a timing ring on the insulator yet so I assume I got some more to play there. But going by that is hard because once I change op parameters, the ring will move, so I really cant use that method. Until all is closer anyway.

Guess its gonna wind up a total trial and error thing in my case... just kinda wish I could see what people are using so I can get an acceptable range.

 

[norbs]

I can use up to 40 at idle with no problems. WHen i started tuning my car, it would not idle below 11.8 a/f in gear now its running at 14.2 with a 224 cam and stock TC. Bump the timing, idle it in closed loop bring those parameters down to 600 rpm low and high. Fix your IAC counts or its not going to ever idle! Today i am experimenting with a 2 bar map sensor, the low speed driving is great, so much better fuel control. Just something to think about.

Just remember i use 50 degrees timing for cruise as this lowers egts by about 200 degrees over 35-40 timing and lets you run as lean as possible without damage. I stress you must do your idle a/f in gear and engine hot, when you take it out of gear you are going to get -20% correction and the a/f is going to be off you target, nothing you can do about this as the load changes in gear.


BTW any exhaust leaks are going to throw you a/f readings out the window!